Free HP/ Cheap HP
06-20-2009, 03:15 PM
#48
Cheap And Easy mods I've been looking at:
Ebay CAI: ~$20
Ebay Header: ~$50+
Ebay test-pipe: ~$10+ (Dyno's normally show 1-2hp increase)
Thermo-Tec Intake Pipe Heat Wrap: ~$45 (IT tested and gained 2 or 3whp on an LS Integra)
Custom Ground kit: Dyno's have shown 2-5whp increases !$50 depending on materials u use
PnP IM: Free or Vinnie wil do for $150 (IIRC)
While the Manifolds off might as well replace the Gasket w/ a Thermal one: $50 | S13 - S14
Since your cooling down the IM, you should also by-pass the Coolant trough the TB and Mani
Lightweight Batt. what will still power a 240 w/ a Decent Sound System: $100 (Stock Size batt. = ~40lbs | LW = 25lbs = 15lbs Saved)
Removing Emissions stuff: Dosen't add power but does clean up the bay and reduce weight...
Electric fans: reduce POWER, your Clutch Fan and WP take about 2hp, when you put elect. fans you put approx. a 14amp load on the Alt. which is pretty big and loads the engine more then your Clutch fan did.
Weight reduction: Best thing you can do, completely removing everything behind the front seats to the trunk can yield around 65+lbs very fast and very easy. Thats is an Estimate but your Rear seats weight about 35lbs top and bottom, Spare and Jack are about another 30lbs, Rear Deck lid, Tunk carpeting, Trim Panels, and seat belts can remove more weight just dont know how much... (Gonna Esti. around another 10lbs)
Ebay CAI: ~$20
Ebay Header: ~$50+
Ebay test-pipe: ~$10+ (Dyno's normally show 1-2hp increase)
Thermo-Tec Intake Pipe Heat Wrap: ~$45 (IT tested and gained 2 or 3whp on an LS Integra)
Custom Ground kit: Dyno's have shown 2-5whp increases !$50 depending on materials u use
PnP IM: Free or Vinnie wil do for $150 (IIRC)
While the Manifolds off might as well replace the Gasket w/ a Thermal one: $50 | S13 - S14
Since your cooling down the IM, you should also by-pass the Coolant trough the TB and Mani
Lightweight Batt. what will still power a 240 w/ a Decent Sound System: $100 (Stock Size batt. = ~40lbs | LW = 25lbs = 15lbs Saved)
Removing Emissions stuff: Dosen't add power but does clean up the bay and reduce weight...
Electric fans: reduce POWER, your Clutch Fan and WP take about 2hp, when you put elect. fans you put approx. a 14amp load on the Alt. which is pretty big and loads the engine more then your Clutch fan did.
Weight reduction: Best thing you can do, completely removing everything behind the front seats to the trunk can yield around 65+lbs very fast and very easy. Thats is an Estimate but your Rear seats weight about 35lbs top and bottom, Spare and Jack are about another 30lbs, Rear Deck lid, Tunk carpeting, Trim Panels, and seat belts can remove more weight just dont know how much... (Gonna Esti. around another 10lbs)
Last edited by 240-kid; 06-20-2009 at 03:18 PM.
06-21-2009, 07:06 AM
#50
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Posts: 456
Custom Ground kit: Dyno's have shown 2-5whp increases !$50 depending on materials u use
06-21-2009, 09:56 PM
#52
Custom Ground kit: Dyno's have shown 2-5whp increases !$50 depending on materials u use
what i want to see is the results of a dyno, with cheap copper wires vs rare earth or whatever they wish to call these magical element wires with gold plated terminals. i want them tested on a brand new car. what will this prove? well, if i am correct, and i'm almost certain that i am, it will prove two things.
one, additional grounding will provide a benefit, but not as mush as the aftermarket retailers will admit to. secondly, while grounding kits do provide a benefit, it's not as much on a new car which hasn't had the time for corrosion to set in on the electrical connections, diminishing it's conductivity.
so my advise is, buy the cheap ebay grounding kit or make your own. clean the grounding points and electrical connections and apply some die-electric grease on these connections.
06-23-2009, 12:57 PM
#54
Your going to need proof to back that statement up. I've done test that show up to 4HP gains using e-fans. It is also more fuel conservative as well which is why more OEM applications are not going the route of clutch fan style.
Almost all newer blutech diesels (50MPG or better), unleaded FR engines, and hybrid are moving in the direction of e fan (40MPG or better).
Not to mention that 14AMP draw is incorrect. All efans draw different amperage's. My flex a lites were around 27AMP draw, my stanza replacement efan is almost a 26 amp draw. This means they will more than likely use a 30AMP fuse/relay.
The standard 240sx alternator is a 90AMP alternator its sole purpose is to charge the battery during load. Most battery's that I have seen for the 240sx are over 500CA. So I'm out right calling bullsh*t. An optima battery is over 680CA. Most AMP draw does not effect coils for ignition thats why battery's have over so many amps so that power can be directed to the parts of the car that need those amps, the alternator just replenishes the battery's power supply so it's not to be confused as an actual power source distributing power to the e fans.
The alternator is a generator that is ALWAYS producing power no matter what rpm you are driving at or no matter how much current or load is applied to the battery. Now an A/C compressor will apply load to the engine which decreases power. There is a degradation loss for the alternator but that is always constant since the alternator is made to generate 90AMPS, that has nothing to do with the efans.
Last edited by BigVinnie; 06-23-2009 at 09:22 PM.
07-01-2009, 11:11 PM
#55
there are also soft start switches which reduce the initial draw and temp switches which would minimize the amount of time the fans are running. there are other way of minimizing the load on the engines charging system, such as not running unessential electronics.
so while certain e-fans could rob power, to flat out say that electric fan rob power is misleading. there are many factors that need to be taken into consideration.
07-02-2009, 04:45 PM
#56
Not to mention a car stereo deck and amplifier draw more amps than an efan over a longer duration of time. One thing I use to sell to every one in the car stereo business was a capacitor and higher amp battery so that the load on the battery wouldn't be as great.
Like I say if you think the initial draw/load is to hard on the battery upgrade to a higher cranking amp battery that won't effect the initial draw from the fan. Simple fact is e fans aren't constantly running, efans only initiate a amp draw at 170~200*F depending on how the person tunes a thermostatic switch. So as far as killing performance I would have to say that it's a huge myth. I would say that this would be a myth conjured up by some one that works in the fan clutch business.
07-09-2009, 08:07 PM
#57
Contributing Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Cokeburg, PA
Posts: 593
The only way an electrical load with rob power enough to matter would be if it overloaded the alternator. This is only because voltage and amperage would drop to the engines components. Kicking on an electic fan wouldn't overload anything unless you had every electrical component in the car on. On the other hand, a clutch fan is a variable load on the engine, aka clutch locked is a large rotational load on the crank as opposed to slipping. Removing the clutch fan is a fast and easy way to improve performance for free.
Pre OBDII cars you can remove everything except the FPR and IACV to gain cleanliness and performance, if you retune the motor. I took everything off my old 91 and never set a light. Better have a friend with an emissions licence if you live somewhere with a emissions test to pass it though, without a cat it will fail everytime due to NoX and CO.
The EGR dilutes the air/fuel mix, removing it is a great way to improve performance for free.
In conclusion to my very long post, quick power for free/cheap...remove clutch fan, remove EGR, retard timing for TQ, advance for HP, buy a 91 exhaust cam put it 3 teeth advanced on the intake for TQ (no idle this way it can't hold vacuum enough to stay running) or four teeth advanced for HP, take out everything you don't want/need to reduce weight, and make sure to add lots of high performance stickers
Pre OBDII cars you can remove everything except the FPR and IACV to gain cleanliness and performance, if you retune the motor. I took everything off my old 91 and never set a light. Better have a friend with an emissions licence if you live somewhere with a emissions test to pass it though, without a cat it will fail everytime due to NoX and CO.
The EGR dilutes the air/fuel mix, removing it is a great way to improve performance for free.
In conclusion to my very long post, quick power for free/cheap...remove clutch fan, remove EGR, retard timing for TQ, advance for HP, buy a 91 exhaust cam put it 3 teeth advanced on the intake for TQ (no idle this way it can't hold vacuum enough to stay running) or four teeth advanced for HP, take out everything you don't want/need to reduce weight, and make sure to add lots of high performance stickers
07-26-2009, 10:36 AM
#58
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Fairmont, West Virginia
Posts: 100
hey vinnie i got a question about the electric fan... my s14 has a manual fan stock plus an electric fan in front of it.... is this for the a/c or what??? now can i remove both fans and add a bigger electric fan only and use the same plug in from the old little electric fan? so i don't have to add a thermo switch?
Eric
Eric
07-26-2009, 06:17 PM
#59
Contributing Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Cokeburg, PA
Posts: 593
No, the manual (aka clutch fan) is the engine cooling fan, the smaller electric one is the A/C fan...comes on when you turn on the A/C to keep the condenser cooled. You can remove the clutch fan and wire the electric to a switch or a thermostat, but if you plug any fan into the original connector, it will only come on when you turn the A/C on.