In-Depth KA-T safc settings
02-16-2008, 12:29 PM
#1
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In-Depth KA-T safc settings
this info was complied by a guy online... somethings there are no point in recreating... he did a bang up job.. i will not post the forum that i got this from, but he will get credit
but this is just to get the idea.. Note ... SOOOO many factors make cars different. you could have the same exact setup as below but please please don't attempt to mirror any of these and think you will be ok... and i highly suggest adding a wideband o2 sensor to your setup, they are more than affordable now
but this is just to get the idea.. Note ... SOOOO many factors make cars different. you could have the same exact setup as below but please please don't attempt to mirror any of these and think you will be ok... and i highly suggest adding a wideband o2 sensor to your setup, they are more than affordable now
02-16-2008, 12:36 PM
#2
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Join Date: Aug 2004
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CovertPolarbear
Houston Tx
Well, ive been searching forever on starting out settings for a SAFC-II, with wiring to the ECU, and everything.. so heres what ive compiled from multiple boards, all from turbo'ed / modified KA's and KA-t's
Enjoy
-
Chuck
===============================================
DEC AIR SETTINGS
""when the car is completely cool start it up. have the safc mointoring throttle %, air flow, and rpms. have the engine at 1000rpms and write down the air flow. then have the engine at 2000rpms and write down the throttle % and air flow.
now go to the dec. air settings. the THR setting is the throttle % you documented at 2000rpms. the NE1 setting is the air flow you had at 1000rpms. the NE2 setting is the air flow you had at 2000rpms. this will get you very close to the settings you need. may not be perfect but very close. this will allow you to run an atmospheric bov without stumbling between gears""
================================================== ===================
AIR FUEL RATIO HELP
14.5:1 is insanely lean on a boosted motor. You need to be around high 11's to low 12's if your under 12-15 psi. Anyone who tells you to tune your car to 14.5:1 is an idiot...maybe if it was NA
Rick
================================================== ===================
TUNING SUGGESTIONS FOR 370cc injectors with a stock MAF
For both high and low throttle at each rpm point adjust the setting to ~-27% and thats it.
As for the decel air, just leave it alone for now you will need that only if you have an open atmosphere blow off valve...or a crappy recirc that doesn't open till 5 psi or so. Anyway the Th should be **** or 0%.
I didn't see a knock setting in the SAFC manual (http://www.apexi-usa.com/pdfInstallation/18.pdf) so it might not have one.
================================================== ===================
INJECTOR SIZING EQUATION MADE BY ME, COVERTPOLARBEAR
To determine the flow correction injector percentage,
(OEM injectors/new injectors=X ::: 1-X=Y :: move decimal 2 over, and thats your percent.)
(270/370=.73 ::: 1-.73=.27 ::: 27%)
(270/440=.61 ::: 1-.61=.39 ::: 39%)
(270/500=.54 ::: 1-.54=.45 ::: 45%)
(270/550=.49 ::: 1-.49=.51 ::: 51%)
Engine fuel pressure at stock is 34 psi with vaccum hose connected
Engine fuel pressure at stock is 43 psi with vaccum hose disconnceted.
================================================== ===================
MORE DEC AIR SETTING HELP
Hotwire air flow meter equipped engines do some funky stuff when you put open air blow off valves on them. The Decel Air function of the SAFC/SAFCII allows you to correct this. Once you have it set right, the car should stop backfiring or stalling on deceleration.
Start when the car is cold. (after an overnight rest is the best way, but at least several hours without running)
Turn key on, go to decel air settings.
Set throttle to 1%.
Set NE1 to about 4.
Set NE2 to about 5.
Start car.
Adjust NE1 until you get a smooth idle while the engine is still cold. Now start turning it down as low as possible while still maintaining a good idle.
If the car starts sputtering and getting rough, you just went too low. Turn it back up very slowly until it smooths out. You want to leave NE1 on the lowest possible point with a good idle.
Now set NE2 to be about 1 higher than NE1.
This formula should eliminate any stalling or popping from the BOV being open.
Theory: Throttle setting tells the SAFC whenever the pedal is depressed less than 1%, the SAFC should control fuel and ignore everything else (including the MAF)
NE1 is the first RPM point you have selected in your NE Point settings. I put mine at 1000 rpm. I set NE2 at 3000, then NE3 at 4000, and so on in 1000 increments. Setting NE1 down at 1000 gives you the ability to control fuel at idle really well. Besides, you probably don't need to adjust anything between 1000 and 3000. (turbo spools after that, right?)
Setting the air flow percentage at NE1 is basically telling the SAFC a number to use whenever it reaches that RPM and less than the throttle setting. So, as the throttle is let off, the SAFC looks at the NE1 and NE2 points. As RPM rolls back, there is going to be a reduction in air into the engine, yet the MAF has already seen it. The stock ECU is attempting to send the fuel for that air that is now missing... hence your stalling and backfiring. The SAFC catches that signal, ignores it, then tells the ECU exactly how much air flow you have according to your DEC AIR settings at those RPM points. Get it?
RPM comes down, hits NE2, SAFC sees 10%. It tells the ECU it needs 5%. (because you picked that number.) Now the RPM won't dive so hard like it was. It reaches NE1, SAFC sees 6%, you told it 4% and it tells the computer only 4%. The idle sets steadily down to where its supposed to and everybody is happy.
The SAFC is all about tricking the ECU into doing what you want it to.
================================================== ===================
ECU PINOUT HELP
SAFC-II Wiring Diagram for S13 KA24DET
SAFC-II Wire Color - ECU Pin # - ECU Wire Color - Function
White wire - ECU pin 16 - white wire - MAF Signal Input from MAF (You actually cut the ECU's wire in half)
Yellow wire - ECU pin 16 - white wire - MAF Signal Output to ECU*
Grey wire - pin 20 - white wire - TPS
Purple wire - pin 27 - white wire - Knock Sensor
Green wire - pin 2 - yellow/red wire - Tach Signal
Red wire - pin 4 - black/white wire - Power
Black wire - pin 39 - black wire - Ground (Further from ECU 1cm from brown SAFC wire)
Brown wire - pin 39 - black wire - Ground (closer to ECU 1cm from black SAFC wire)
================================================== ===================
HERE ARE SOME SETTINGS THAT MULTIPLE MEMBERS HAVE MADE ON THERE SAFC POWERED RIDES
NE Points: 1000rpm, 2500rpm, 3000rpm, 3500rpm, 4000rpm, 4500rpm, 5000rpm and 6000rpm
Throttle Point: Lo - 10% / High - 43%
Low Throttle Fuel Correction: -25% across ALL NE Points
High Throttle Fuel Correction: 1000rpm -17%, 2500rpm -17%, 3000 -16%, 3500rpm -15%, 4000rpm -15%, 4500rpm -15%, 5000rpm -15% and 6000rpm -15%
My turbo system is, SSAutochrome Manifold, SR T25 Turbo, SR Turbo Extension, Megan Racing 3" Downpipe, SR 370cc Injector's, Megan Racing Fuel Pressure Regulator, 300zx Fuel Filter, SR SMIC, Walboro Fuel Pump, GReddy Type S BOV (atmospheric) and the SAFC (buttons)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
With my setup I am using a t28 .60a/r comp and .86a/r turbine, 255lph pump, 555cc injectors. Afr's are constantly watched with a plx m-300 wideband.
Lo map is -50% across the board, which gives me 14.5-15.5 afr's while cruising around town.
High map is -50% from 1000-2200rpm's, -45% at 2800rpm's and -35% 3400-7000rpm's which gives me afr's of 12.5 during spool and 10.8 to 11.5 during full boost, which is at about 10.5psi.
NE points are 1000,1600,2200,2800,3400,4000,4600,5200,5800,6400, 7000, and 7600rpms
Dec settings are 1.1,1.4, and 2.0. I have no stalling problems at all.
Throttle point is 10% and 33%
All These settings are working really good for me, I have excellent streetability and it pulls like hell at WOT. However, i'm not to certain about the NE points, I have not touched them
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
I didnt not set the DECEL SETTINGs becoz it seems fine to me. is in factory default..
and my
Throttle point is: Lo 44%, Hi 45%
NE POINTS: 1000, 1600, 2200, 3400, 4000, 5000, 6000, 7000
LO : 25%, 25%, 25% , 26% , 26% , 27% , 27%, 28%
HI : 31%, 31%, 31% , 32% , 32% , 33% , 33%, 33%
everything runs fin my A/F readings are 14-14.7 when cruising but chokes when boosting.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-27% across the board means that for each throttle point on both HI and LO settings, set it to -27 to make it basically equivalent to what the 270s put out for fuel, but you'll be using 370cc's so you need to pull -27% counteract the size change.
This is the setup I got from a fellow BillKlineVT
under etc. menu)
Sens. Type: Hotwire
Car type: 4 cyl, arrow up and to the right "/"
do knock set just like the manual says to do
(under settings)
Th-Point: Lo 15% Hi 50%
RPM: Hi-Thrtl: Lo-Thrtl:
800 -20% -20%
2000 -20% -20%
2600 -20 -20
3200 -25 -22
3800 -24 -22
4400 -21 -16
5000 -27 -15
5200 -26 -15
5400 -26 -15
5600 -26 -15
5800 -25 -15
6400 -23 -15
Ne Points: 800,2000,2600,3200,3800,4400,5000,5200,5400,5600,5 800,6400
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
stock ecu/550cc injectors/walbro/z32maf/stock FPR
ETC Menu:
Sensor type: Hot-wire: 1in 6out: 2in ADDout
Car Select: 4 cyl thr -> (arrow pointing up)
Initialize (this is the menu you use to reset the safc)
Setting Menu:
Low Throttle:
1k -50%
2-8k -40%
Hi throttle (low boost 15psi):
1-3k 0%
4k -24%
5k -30%
6-8k -31%
High Throttle (high boost 19psi)
1-3k 0%
4k -33%
5k -41%
6-8k -32%
THR Point:
20% low 40% high
Dec. Air:
Thr 2.0%
Ne1 .7%
Ne2 2.0%
Houston Tx
Well, ive been searching forever on starting out settings for a SAFC-II, with wiring to the ECU, and everything.. so heres what ive compiled from multiple boards, all from turbo'ed / modified KA's and KA-t's
Enjoy
-
Chuck
===============================================
DEC AIR SETTINGS
""when the car is completely cool start it up. have the safc mointoring throttle %, air flow, and rpms. have the engine at 1000rpms and write down the air flow. then have the engine at 2000rpms and write down the throttle % and air flow.
now go to the dec. air settings. the THR setting is the throttle % you documented at 2000rpms. the NE1 setting is the air flow you had at 1000rpms. the NE2 setting is the air flow you had at 2000rpms. this will get you very close to the settings you need. may not be perfect but very close. this will allow you to run an atmospheric bov without stumbling between gears""
================================================== ===================
AIR FUEL RATIO HELP
14.5:1 is insanely lean on a boosted motor. You need to be around high 11's to low 12's if your under 12-15 psi. Anyone who tells you to tune your car to 14.5:1 is an idiot...maybe if it was NA
Rick
================================================== ===================
TUNING SUGGESTIONS FOR 370cc injectors with a stock MAF
For both high and low throttle at each rpm point adjust the setting to ~-27% and thats it.
As for the decel air, just leave it alone for now you will need that only if you have an open atmosphere blow off valve...or a crappy recirc that doesn't open till 5 psi or so. Anyway the Th should be **** or 0%.
I didn't see a knock setting in the SAFC manual (http://www.apexi-usa.com/pdfInstallation/18.pdf) so it might not have one.
================================================== ===================
INJECTOR SIZING EQUATION MADE BY ME, COVERTPOLARBEAR
To determine the flow correction injector percentage,
(OEM injectors/new injectors=X ::: 1-X=Y :: move decimal 2 over, and thats your percent.)
(270/370=.73 ::: 1-.73=.27 ::: 27%)
(270/440=.61 ::: 1-.61=.39 ::: 39%)
(270/500=.54 ::: 1-.54=.45 ::: 45%)
(270/550=.49 ::: 1-.49=.51 ::: 51%)
Engine fuel pressure at stock is 34 psi with vaccum hose connected
Engine fuel pressure at stock is 43 psi with vaccum hose disconnceted.
================================================== ===================
MORE DEC AIR SETTING HELP
Hotwire air flow meter equipped engines do some funky stuff when you put open air blow off valves on them. The Decel Air function of the SAFC/SAFCII allows you to correct this. Once you have it set right, the car should stop backfiring or stalling on deceleration.
Start when the car is cold. (after an overnight rest is the best way, but at least several hours without running)
Turn key on, go to decel air settings.
Set throttle to 1%.
Set NE1 to about 4.
Set NE2 to about 5.
Start car.
Adjust NE1 until you get a smooth idle while the engine is still cold. Now start turning it down as low as possible while still maintaining a good idle.
If the car starts sputtering and getting rough, you just went too low. Turn it back up very slowly until it smooths out. You want to leave NE1 on the lowest possible point with a good idle.
Now set NE2 to be about 1 higher than NE1.
This formula should eliminate any stalling or popping from the BOV being open.
Theory: Throttle setting tells the SAFC whenever the pedal is depressed less than 1%, the SAFC should control fuel and ignore everything else (including the MAF)
NE1 is the first RPM point you have selected in your NE Point settings. I put mine at 1000 rpm. I set NE2 at 3000, then NE3 at 4000, and so on in 1000 increments. Setting NE1 down at 1000 gives you the ability to control fuel at idle really well. Besides, you probably don't need to adjust anything between 1000 and 3000. (turbo spools after that, right?)
Setting the air flow percentage at NE1 is basically telling the SAFC a number to use whenever it reaches that RPM and less than the throttle setting. So, as the throttle is let off, the SAFC looks at the NE1 and NE2 points. As RPM rolls back, there is going to be a reduction in air into the engine, yet the MAF has already seen it. The stock ECU is attempting to send the fuel for that air that is now missing... hence your stalling and backfiring. The SAFC catches that signal, ignores it, then tells the ECU exactly how much air flow you have according to your DEC AIR settings at those RPM points. Get it?
RPM comes down, hits NE2, SAFC sees 10%. It tells the ECU it needs 5%. (because you picked that number.) Now the RPM won't dive so hard like it was. It reaches NE1, SAFC sees 6%, you told it 4% and it tells the computer only 4%. The idle sets steadily down to where its supposed to and everybody is happy.
The SAFC is all about tricking the ECU into doing what you want it to.
================================================== ===================
ECU PINOUT HELP
SAFC-II Wiring Diagram for S13 KA24DET
SAFC-II Wire Color - ECU Pin # - ECU Wire Color - Function
White wire - ECU pin 16 - white wire - MAF Signal Input from MAF (You actually cut the ECU's wire in half)
Yellow wire - ECU pin 16 - white wire - MAF Signal Output to ECU*
Grey wire - pin 20 - white wire - TPS
Purple wire - pin 27 - white wire - Knock Sensor
Green wire - pin 2 - yellow/red wire - Tach Signal
Red wire - pin 4 - black/white wire - Power
Black wire - pin 39 - black wire - Ground (Further from ECU 1cm from brown SAFC wire)
Brown wire - pin 39 - black wire - Ground (closer to ECU 1cm from black SAFC wire)
================================================== ===================
HERE ARE SOME SETTINGS THAT MULTIPLE MEMBERS HAVE MADE ON THERE SAFC POWERED RIDES
NE Points: 1000rpm, 2500rpm, 3000rpm, 3500rpm, 4000rpm, 4500rpm, 5000rpm and 6000rpm
Throttle Point: Lo - 10% / High - 43%
Low Throttle Fuel Correction: -25% across ALL NE Points
High Throttle Fuel Correction: 1000rpm -17%, 2500rpm -17%, 3000 -16%, 3500rpm -15%, 4000rpm -15%, 4500rpm -15%, 5000rpm -15% and 6000rpm -15%
My turbo system is, SSAutochrome Manifold, SR T25 Turbo, SR Turbo Extension, Megan Racing 3" Downpipe, SR 370cc Injector's, Megan Racing Fuel Pressure Regulator, 300zx Fuel Filter, SR SMIC, Walboro Fuel Pump, GReddy Type S BOV (atmospheric) and the SAFC (buttons)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
With my setup I am using a t28 .60a/r comp and .86a/r turbine, 255lph pump, 555cc injectors. Afr's are constantly watched with a plx m-300 wideband.
Lo map is -50% across the board, which gives me 14.5-15.5 afr's while cruising around town.
High map is -50% from 1000-2200rpm's, -45% at 2800rpm's and -35% 3400-7000rpm's which gives me afr's of 12.5 during spool and 10.8 to 11.5 during full boost, which is at about 10.5psi.
NE points are 1000,1600,2200,2800,3400,4000,4600,5200,5800,6400, 7000, and 7600rpms
Dec settings are 1.1,1.4, and 2.0. I have no stalling problems at all.
Throttle point is 10% and 33%
All These settings are working really good for me, I have excellent streetability and it pulls like hell at WOT. However, i'm not to certain about the NE points, I have not touched them
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
I didnt not set the DECEL SETTINGs becoz it seems fine to me. is in factory default..
and my
Throttle point is: Lo 44%, Hi 45%
NE POINTS: 1000, 1600, 2200, 3400, 4000, 5000, 6000, 7000
LO : 25%, 25%, 25% , 26% , 26% , 27% , 27%, 28%
HI : 31%, 31%, 31% , 32% , 32% , 33% , 33%, 33%
everything runs fin my A/F readings are 14-14.7 when cruising but chokes when boosting.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-27% across the board means that for each throttle point on both HI and LO settings, set it to -27 to make it basically equivalent to what the 270s put out for fuel, but you'll be using 370cc's so you need to pull -27% counteract the size change.
This is the setup I got from a fellow BillKlineVT
under etc. menu)
Sens. Type: Hotwire
Car type: 4 cyl, arrow up and to the right "/"
do knock set just like the manual says to do
(under settings)
Th-Point: Lo 15% Hi 50%
RPM: Hi-Thrtl: Lo-Thrtl:
800 -20% -20%
2000 -20% -20%
2600 -20 -20
3200 -25 -22
3800 -24 -22
4400 -21 -16
5000 -27 -15
5200 -26 -15
5400 -26 -15
5600 -26 -15
5800 -25 -15
6400 -23 -15
Ne Points: 800,2000,2600,3200,3800,4400,5000,5200,5400,5600,5 800,6400
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
stock ecu/550cc injectors/walbro/z32maf/stock FPR
ETC Menu:
Sensor type: Hot-wire: 1in 6out: 2in ADDout
Car Select: 4 cyl thr -> (arrow pointing up)
Initialize (this is the menu you use to reset the safc)
Setting Menu:
Low Throttle:
1k -50%
2-8k -40%
Hi throttle (low boost 15psi):
1-3k 0%
4k -24%
5k -30%
6-8k -31%
High Throttle (high boost 19psi)
1-3k 0%
4k -33%
5k -41%
6-8k -32%
THR Point:
20% low 40% high
Dec. Air:
Thr 2.0%
Ne1 .7%
Ne2 2.0%
02-16-2008, 12:36 PM
#3
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Misawa, Japan
Posts: 5,091
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
z32 MAF
370cc injectors
walbro 255lph fuel pump
91 ka24de ecu
apexi SAFC
apexi AVC-R
apexi turbo timer
MSD 6BTM
MSD blaster coil
Split second EGO signal conditioner
ssautochrome bottom mount manifold
Garrett T25 from a red top sr20det
hks style turbo outlet
hks SSQV BOV
3 in SR downpipe, 3 in SR resonator test pipe, 3 in s13 catback exhaust
21x9x3 FMIC
2 1/2" piping
airinx type air cleaner
MAF type = Hotwire
Setting = 2in and 5out
# Of cylinder and throttle signal type, 4 and up arrow to the right
boost on average @ 7 to 8 psi with an occasional spike up to 11 psi.
lo throttle point 20%
hi throttle point 40% (fast spooling turbo)
low map -24 across
high map +20 to 21 across
on the innovate wideband, AF is steady at low 12 to mid 11 and high 10.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
t3 @10psi
370cc injectors
stock ka maf
vpsl fmic
Throttle Point
lo - 10%
hi - 75%
Dec. Air
THR 15%
NE1 20%
NE2 16%
mess around with these and your NEPOINT settings to get the car to drop rpms correctly
Fuel Correction Maps:
Lo Throttle
RPM | COR
____________________
1000 | -35%
2000 | -13%
3000 | -7%
4000 | -4%
5000 | -1%
6000 | 0%
7000 | 0%
HI Throttle
RPM | COR
____________________
1000 | 0%
2000 | 0%
3000 | -3%
4000 | +5%
5000 | +13%
6000 | +17%
7000 | +14%
runs a bit on the rich side but it works good
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
right now I have it at -50 up to 2000 and the hi throttle to -38 accross the board, just to play it safe. by the way the rest of my setup is:
KKK K26 turbo
38MM wastegat
Walbro
Z32 MAF - Blow through
SAFC2
550cc injectors
People on the boards were telling me that the k26 was to small and not worth the time. I had the MAF maxed out @ only 7 psi. What HP level does the MAF max out at anyway. The k26 runs fine @ 12psi without dropping off so we'll see how high it can boost without falling off once I get the Wideband.
===============================================
I hope this helps more than just me.. but if not, oh well, at least someone may get some sort of info out of this..
thanks
Chuck
z32 MAF
370cc injectors
walbro 255lph fuel pump
91 ka24de ecu
apexi SAFC
apexi AVC-R
apexi turbo timer
MSD 6BTM
MSD blaster coil
Split second EGO signal conditioner
ssautochrome bottom mount manifold
Garrett T25 from a red top sr20det
hks style turbo outlet
hks SSQV BOV
3 in SR downpipe, 3 in SR resonator test pipe, 3 in s13 catback exhaust
21x9x3 FMIC
2 1/2" piping
airinx type air cleaner
MAF type = Hotwire
Setting = 2in and 5out
# Of cylinder and throttle signal type, 4 and up arrow to the right
boost on average @ 7 to 8 psi with an occasional spike up to 11 psi.
lo throttle point 20%
hi throttle point 40% (fast spooling turbo)
low map -24 across
high map +20 to 21 across
on the innovate wideband, AF is steady at low 12 to mid 11 and high 10.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
t3 @10psi
370cc injectors
stock ka maf
vpsl fmic
Throttle Point
lo - 10%
hi - 75%
Dec. Air
THR 15%
NE1 20%
NE2 16%
mess around with these and your NEPOINT settings to get the car to drop rpms correctly
Fuel Correction Maps:
Lo Throttle
RPM | COR
____________________
1000 | -35%
2000 | -13%
3000 | -7%
4000 | -4%
5000 | -1%
6000 | 0%
7000 | 0%
HI Throttle
RPM | COR
____________________
1000 | 0%
2000 | 0%
3000 | -3%
4000 | +5%
5000 | +13%
6000 | +17%
7000 | +14%
runs a bit on the rich side but it works good
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
right now I have it at -50 up to 2000 and the hi throttle to -38 accross the board, just to play it safe. by the way the rest of my setup is:
KKK K26 turbo
38MM wastegat
Walbro
Z32 MAF - Blow through
SAFC2
550cc injectors
People on the boards were telling me that the k26 was to small and not worth the time. I had the MAF maxed out @ only 7 psi. What HP level does the MAF max out at anyway. The k26 runs fine @ 12psi without dropping off so we'll see how high it can boost without falling off once I get the Wideband.
===============================================
I hope this helps more than just me.. but if not, oh well, at least someone may get some sort of info out of this..
thanks
Chuck
02-18-2008, 10:15 AM
#7
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Misawa, Japan
Posts: 5,091
power can be drawn from any 12v source... i didn't check the wiring... mine has been in my car for over 2 years and i used the manual.. this write is more for setting it up.
02-18-2008, 11:31 AM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Vancouver, BC CANADA
Posts: 32
yeah.. i guess pin 4 works too.. looking at the ecu pin out now it is a 12v for the Main Relay (Electronic Concentrated Control System) and pin 47 is a 12v source for Power Supply (Engine Control Module).
i guess both works for the s13
i guess both works for the s13
03-30-2008, 04:56 AM
#10
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Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Misawa, Japan
Posts: 5,091
well to tune properly bro you need wideband... and either a dyno or drag track to do it properly.
i mean you can street tune it but do it at your own risk
before my wideband. i basically adjust mine until i could not smell fuel and not sputter... it ran fine but once i got some extra money i bought a wideband right way and smooth my tune out .. its more advance than raising and lowering the -+ value. remember all setups are different.
i mean you can street tune it but do it at your own risk
before my wideband. i basically adjust mine until i could not smell fuel and not sputter... it ran fine but once i got some extra money i bought a wideband right way and smooth my tune out .. its more advance than raising and lowering the -+ value. remember all setups are different.
03-30-2008, 11:22 AM
#11
The importance of the dyno is that you can be making really good A/Fr's, but then not make **** for power. Dyno tuning provides the best of both worlds for maximum HP as well as a safe A/Fr.
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