D1SL Sil80 build thread
11-22-2011, 04:36 AM
#1
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D1SL Sil80 build thread
Yeaup picked this car up and will use it for D1SL
only thing I have done to it is wheels all the other stuff was there before I got it..no matter im going to do my work under the skin where it matters.. The car is already a drifter but im going to make it a comp car.. big difference I have learned this past season.
much more to come from this
only thing I have done to it is wheels all the other stuff was there before I got it..no matter im going to do my work under the skin where it matters.. The car is already a drifter but im going to make it a comp car.. big difference I have learned this past season.
much more to come from this
02-23-2012, 02:30 AM
#3
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Been a bit, pictures of most recent dealings. car is about 80 percent complete waiting on a few more batches of parts.
Major changes... after downtime research and hanging with other D1SL drivers, decided to switch to an S15 rear subframe for its added strength and several other reasons. All the parts required to make it fit I already have to include the s15 to s13 conversion bushings.
I have also decided to go with a dual rear caliper setup after talking to some experienced hydro guys. I didn't want the soggy pedal effect at all nor the interference of braking while trying to hydro etc..
now pics
Made these mounts from NA RB25 mounts however but after testing didn't like them I went with hockey pucks ( Old hotrod mod ). Tested them out on my other 180 and they are damn solid, the motor doesn't even rock when starting it up!!
Bolts and washers for pucks
Testing of Hockey Puck Mounts on 180 missile. If you are a soft person who cares about comfort this is not for you lol.
Preparing to spot weld and fill in
Preparing the rear subframe.. burning out the bushings.. step one.
Out after 30min of burning. Next day had to cut and hammer the old sleeves out.. Pain in the rear for sure
Pulling down the s13 sub frame here are some pics to compare the width. this alone adds 10mm's so if you have baller wheels already you will have to add over fenders or flares.
Stance offset solid bushings also got a set coming for the diff mount
This is the setup of my pluming for the Hydro standalone setup.
The rest of the products are on the way these are not pics of my car setup. Just using as a reference below
"So what exactly is it? This bracket allows you to use 2 pairs of Z32 rear calipers for AWESOME stopping power. One pair of calipers gets plumbed up like normal and works off of the brake pedal. The other pair gets plumbed SEPARATELY to the hydraulic handbrake. No more weird pedal feel when pulling the e-brake and the footbrake! You now have a dedicated setup for the hydraulic handbrake. "
"- You will need to cut off the OEM brake mounts on the upright.
- Aluminum uprights(Z32, R32, etc) need to have a few places ground down. Quick work with a grinder.
- This will space your wheels out 8mm. It's like adding an 8mm spacer to the wheels. Please keep this in mind if you have flush fitting wheel already.
- We recommend using a 3/4" bore hydraulic handbrake. 5/8" will work as well.
- Allows the proper use of a hydraulic handbrake. No more rigged inline setups that don't work when you need them to!"
Bad sorta as ill have the extra 10mm with the s15 subframe and another 8mm because of these. So ill have to buy weak offset wheels on purpose for the rear.
Requires Mustang rotor's
Major changes... after downtime research and hanging with other D1SL drivers, decided to switch to an S15 rear subframe for its added strength and several other reasons. All the parts required to make it fit I already have to include the s15 to s13 conversion bushings.
I have also decided to go with a dual rear caliper setup after talking to some experienced hydro guys. I didn't want the soggy pedal effect at all nor the interference of braking while trying to hydro etc..
now pics
Made these mounts from NA RB25 mounts however but after testing didn't like them I went with hockey pucks ( Old hotrod mod ). Tested them out on my other 180 and they are damn solid, the motor doesn't even rock when starting it up!!
Bolts and washers for pucks
Testing of Hockey Puck Mounts on 180 missile. If you are a soft person who cares about comfort this is not for you lol.
Preparing to spot weld and fill in
Preparing the rear subframe.. burning out the bushings.. step one.
Out after 30min of burning. Next day had to cut and hammer the old sleeves out.. Pain in the rear for sure
Pulling down the s13 sub frame here are some pics to compare the width. this alone adds 10mm's so if you have baller wheels already you will have to add over fenders or flares.
Stance offset solid bushings also got a set coming for the diff mount
This is the setup of my pluming for the Hydro standalone setup.
The rest of the products are on the way these are not pics of my car setup. Just using as a reference below
"So what exactly is it? This bracket allows you to use 2 pairs of Z32 rear calipers for AWESOME stopping power. One pair of calipers gets plumbed up like normal and works off of the brake pedal. The other pair gets plumbed SEPARATELY to the hydraulic handbrake. No more weird pedal feel when pulling the e-brake and the footbrake! You now have a dedicated setup for the hydraulic handbrake. "
"- You will need to cut off the OEM brake mounts on the upright.
- Aluminum uprights(Z32, R32, etc) need to have a few places ground down. Quick work with a grinder.
- This will space your wheels out 8mm. It's like adding an 8mm spacer to the wheels. Please keep this in mind if you have flush fitting wheel already.
- We recommend using a 3/4" bore hydraulic handbrake. 5/8" will work as well.
- Allows the proper use of a hydraulic handbrake. No more rigged inline setups that don't work when you need them to!"
Bad sorta as ill have the extra 10mm with the s15 subframe and another 8mm because of these. So ill have to buy weak offset wheels on purpose for the rear.
Requires Mustang rotor's
03-02-2012, 08:05 AM
#4
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Today got working on the dual calipers. Had to grind off a bit and cut some things as usual to make them work. Im going to look into some lighter calipers... I picked the whole rear assembly up with my manly strength and im going to say its about maybe 35 to 45 lbs.
Tomorrow going to fill in some of what I grinded off.. took a bit to much off to allow the bolt to clear avoiding having to undo the hub each time. Still plenty of meat there.. just doing it mainly for peace of mind lol.
The rotors pictured are from a Mustang Cobra/Bullitt etc . You will clearly see from the top view that the adapter alone adds 8mm's so if you interested in this kit be careful if you built your car around a certain wheels offset. You may even have to run a weaker rear setup. I will because the s15 rear subframe adds 10mm so that a total of 18mm added without a single spacer.
Tomorrow going to fill in some of what I grinded off.. took a bit to much off to allow the bolt to clear avoiding having to undo the hub each time. Still plenty of meat there.. just doing it mainly for peace of mind lol.
The rotors pictured are from a Mustang Cobra/Bullitt etc . You will clearly see from the top view that the adapter alone adds 8mm's so if you interested in this kit be careful if you built your car around a certain wheels offset. You may even have to run a weaker rear setup. I will because the s15 rear subframe adds 10mm so that a total of 18mm added without a single spacer.
09-24-2012, 02:55 PM
#12
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Thanks bro yea ironically season just ended after my third blown Sr... they cant take the abuse of competition in stock form lol. Im going to a built RB26 next
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