Agent_Zero

Whenever I put the clutch in (like to neutral to coast or to downshift) the rpm's plummet to zero and I have to pop start it going like 40mph. Sometimes it willl drop to like 300rmp's and bounce back up when I stop. I just paid almost $500 to a shop to fix an electrical problem but I think Im getting ripped...(replaced distributor, crack sensors, and a few misc parts = $464.90) Sorry for the long post but I need help and to complain.

Sieji

The clutch, flywheel, all that engine-to-transmission stuff is some pretty heavy stuff. Now imagine that stuff spinning really really fast, then you throw it into neutral. Momentum, comes to mind, perhaps (for you extra technical folks... polar moment, inertia of rotating mass). My suggestion would be to kick up your idle a bit... or try downshifting? (the fsm shows some stuff so all you gotta do is turn a bolt, and huzzah, ur idle is up... or you can be like the muscle builders... and just tighten up ur cable on the TB, or advance the timing if you got nice plugs.)

When I do super long driving, at hi rpms... i get that problem, and even more so if i'm stopped on a downhill... downshifting is my friend, especially through turns.

Or you could be a pseudo-drifter and learn to drive pressing all three pedals... ^^ (clutch + brake + and give 'er some gas as you slowing down, to keep the revs up and the engine from dieing)

l2aine

^ whatever that guy is talking about... sounds pretty wrong LOL.

You should be able to dip the clutch in whenever and not have the engine RPM's drop to almost stalling point IF your engine is tuned properly and all settings (timing, plug gap, etc.) are within spec. Having to rev the engine in neutral while slowing down just to keep the engine running should be an obvious clue that something under the hood might not be working as it should.

Agent, you might have a slight problem with your intake components (idle adjust, idle control, etc.) or possible vac leak somewhere maybe, or bad timing. That's just off the top of my head.

You might want to check your ECU for any codes that might be stored in there to give you a possible start on diagnosing the issue.

BTW momentum is continuing motion. Inertia is resistance to motion. Get your technical big-*** words right... LOL =P

Agent_Zero

It idles fine when starting at a solid 1300rpm. THe shop the car is at right now I don't think they have much nisssan exp. Im definately gonna check out the timming and idle controll. Thanks for the advice.

Agent_Zero

Got the problem fixed turned out the the idle was set way to low for the wierd adjustable idle. I don't get it but its fixed and thanks for the Help you guys.