Drift techniques and pointers for rookies
11-10-2008, 09:58 PM
#62
black i would keep the VLSD stock for now..... actually i would keep it stock for at least your first 2-3 events.
your learning curve will be much higher if you have no prior experince with the drift and have full out lockage. I dont want to appear to be talking down to you, becuase thats never my angle, but you must grow into and out of mods.
your learning curve will be much higher if you have no prior experince with the drift and have full out lockage. I dont want to appear to be talking down to you, becuase thats never my angle, but you must grow into and out of mods.
11-10-2008, 10:45 PM
#63
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Gainesville Florida
Posts: 690
i completely understand bro....
i could sit on my VLSD, or i can throw it in.... the main reason i want one so bad is because, i do drag my car from time to time, and i'm sure this will help with the one wheel peel... also, for "drift practice".... this event will be my first, and i prob wont be at another one for a while (several months, no support base in these parts).... i also hear cornering is a little more positive, and autox/road race is my eventual plans, so i figured it'd be a good start..
i suppose you're right.... get used to what i have, then improve it as my skill goes up...
oh, and for $20..... i can't say no!!!
i could sit on my VLSD, or i can throw it in.... the main reason i want one so bad is because, i do drag my car from time to time, and i'm sure this will help with the one wheel peel... also, for "drift practice".... this event will be my first, and i prob wont be at another one for a while (several months, no support base in these parts).... i also hear cornering is a little more positive, and autox/road race is my eventual plans, so i figured it'd be a good start..
i suppose you're right.... get used to what i have, then improve it as my skill goes up...
oh, and for $20..... i can't say no!!!
11-11-2008, 05:46 AM
#64
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Alpharetta, GA
Posts: 1,684
30 Might be a little low for the fronts, even with all my weight, torque and understeer I still usually put the fronts between 32 and 36 . . .the rear never goes higher than 40 for me . . . but I need the grip and I love to put out plumes of smoke.
You can rock the VLSD or not, they work for various drifters, I know guys that go out there and KILL IT with a VLSD! They do, from what I've heard, have to rebuild them (or service them) a lot though. I'm not sure how the whole viscous thing works but it sounds like a good plan on a budget. AND I'M ALL ABOUT DRIFTING ON A BUDGET . . .I MEAN . . .LOOK AT MY CAR!!!
*cries*
Wait
.
.
.
Where am I?
.
.
.
.
Anyway, yeah, see what tire pressures work for you, remember though, be EXTREMELY careful with low tire pressures up front. Your front tires won't heat up as fast as your rears so you won't get the same pressure fluxes. Just keep that in mind. Also, if you're understeering hard on low tire pressures, you're rolling your tires onto the sidewalls. Sidewall damage is terminal for a tire, LOL! I ran too low on my fronts on ONE event and it looked like I took my car rock climibing my sidewalls were so badly marred.
I dunno . . .we're just spitting out tips and tricks is all. Truth is, none of us will know what works for you until YOU get out there and drive. Even YOU don't know what works yet, so just get out there, start sliding, adjust tire pressures and techniques accordingly and make some magic!
-Dave
You can rock the VLSD or not, they work for various drifters, I know guys that go out there and KILL IT with a VLSD! They do, from what I've heard, have to rebuild them (or service them) a lot though. I'm not sure how the whole viscous thing works but it sounds like a good plan on a budget. AND I'M ALL ABOUT DRIFTING ON A BUDGET . . .I MEAN . . .LOOK AT MY CAR!!!
*cries*
Wait
.
.
.
Where am I?
.
.
.
.
Anyway, yeah, see what tire pressures work for you, remember though, be EXTREMELY careful with low tire pressures up front. Your front tires won't heat up as fast as your rears so you won't get the same pressure fluxes. Just keep that in mind. Also, if you're understeering hard on low tire pressures, you're rolling your tires onto the sidewalls. Sidewall damage is terminal for a tire, LOL! I ran too low on my fronts on ONE event and it looked like I took my car rock climibing my sidewalls were so badly marred.
I dunno . . .we're just spitting out tips and tricks is all. Truth is, none of us will know what works for you until YOU get out there and drive. Even YOU don't know what works yet, so just get out there, start sliding, adjust tire pressures and techniques accordingly and make some magic!
-Dave
11-11-2008, 08:20 AM
#65
Contributing Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Cleveland Ohio
Posts: 1,152
Yeah, its kinda all about how you want to rock things. If you want a big bang when you blow out the rear tires, pump that PSI up. haha. I generally just have chunks of tread rip off. I have not had a flat tire yet from drifting. I get down to the steel then call it quits.
11-11-2008, 08:23 PM
#70
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Gainesville Florida
Posts: 690
yeah i know where to look... i was just implying how utterly disappointed i am..
it wasn't a S14 diff......EPIC FAIL.... well at least it was free and i now have an open diff to weld.... and it's not like i got ripped off, and he didn't know if it was open or not, and the guy he bought it from said it was VLSD... oh well... welded track diff on the shelf...
good note is that when i was out there getting the diff out, i went ahead and pulled the door lock actuator out, and replaced mine, so now i can at least lock my doors again for first time in 3 months....
it wasn't a S14 diff......EPIC FAIL.... well at least it was free and i now have an open diff to weld.... and it's not like i got ripped off, and he didn't know if it was open or not, and the guy he bought it from said it was VLSD... oh well... welded track diff on the shelf...
good note is that when i was out there getting the diff out, i went ahead and pulled the door lock actuator out, and replaced mine, so now i can at least lock my doors again for first time in 3 months....
11-11-2008, 09:25 PM
#71
Contributing Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Cleveland Ohio
Posts: 1,152
I would highly recommend bringing your diff to a welding shop and having them weld it with a high voltage mig welder. Shop by my house charged $50. I just brought it up there and told them where to weld it and how much to weld. It turned out really good. I wish I had taken pictures. Make sure you get all those beads out and take a chizel or screw driver and break off any beads that look like they will eventually break off. Use a magnet to collect all the pieces that fall.
11-11-2008, 09:54 PM
#72
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Gainesville Florida
Posts: 690
BAH why pay... i've been welding for 2-3 years and my buddy on the other side of the block has a welder...
good shot on getting all the "titty *****" out of the diff (thats what we used to call em in the shop... getting all those out will be first priority... and if i don't get em all... screw it, it was a free diff...
good shot on getting all the "titty *****" out of the diff (thats what we used to call em in the shop... getting all those out will be first priority... and if i don't get em all... screw it, it was a free diff...
11-11-2008, 10:50 PM
#73
IF i were to do it again, i would pull the diff from the pumpkin.. when i welded my second one with a high voltage welder. it was so hot that
1. it melted the spider gears together and that was cool to see
2. the bearing caps will get very hot and you have to jolt it to free them up.
1. it melted the spider gears together and that was cool to see
2. the bearing caps will get very hot and you have to jolt it to free them up.
11-11-2008, 11:27 PM
#75
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Misawa Japan
Posts: 24
One thing I noticed with myself and a lot of newer drifters is that they do not fully commit to going sideways. as soon as the car starts to slip a little they ease off the gass. You have to push it untill the car is at least 30-50 degrees to the inside line, then feather the trottle to keep your angle and speed consistent. another fiew things I learned after coming to japan is a seat is a must. you need to be able to let go of the steering wheel without flying acrost the center consol, or the driver side window. I was a victem of man-handling (spelling?) the steering wheel and trying to make the car do what i wanted it to instead of leting the car do most of the work. If you watch these two videos of the inside view, you will see the difference in steering control just by adding a seat. also, when you sit in your car upright, back touching the back of the seat, you sould be able to wrest your wrist on the steering wheel without having to try and strech there, but also not where your elbow angled allot. Hope this helps some new drivers out there, I am still learnig myself.
I appologise the vids are kind of long, but if you bear through them you will see what i mean.
without seat
http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...deoid=40416431
with seat
http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...deoid=42351489
I appologise the vids are kind of long, but if you bear through them you will see what i mean.
without seat
http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...deoid=40416431
with seat
http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...deoid=42351489