conflict in How-too
 

Ok i've been lurking around for a while and just did a OEM spec clutch swap on my 91 coupe ka. I had a really hard time getting the trans back up and now i have to take it out again. it seems the clutch wont fully disengage and i slip under load and it slips bad. i have a slight grinding when its in neutral and seems that the TOB doesnt return far enough. i replaced the master and slave and removed the damper box. still no luck. oh yeah it has been bleed. no air at all. i think it has to do with the clips on the TOB assembly. i only had one clip, i'll relplace the clutch fork as well. and info on this would help as well but here is why i posted.

I read on Biggamehits how-toos the the trans has to be 100% level to go back in. I dont recall nething about rotating it. I have heard of rotaing 180 out and 90 out but i still had trouble getting it in. basicly i'll asking which is right. rotating the trans under the car is a B**** and if i dont have to i dont want to. i came to close to trashing the pressure plate last time i dont wanna do that again

thanks in advance guys

there isn't a magical way that will always work, getting the tranny back on takes time and some creativity. so just because some say to turn it and others don't doesn't mean there is a conflict. it's what works for you to get it back on.

in my case, i had to loosen the engine mounts and tilt the engine back to get the tranny back on.

^^ +1

the way i put in my write up is the way i did all 10+ clutch jobs.

you rotate it slightly side to side. if you have an extra hand, have him or her rotate your crank. this will help the splines line up and reduce the amount of spinning on your part, you will just push forward. the reason it has to be as level as possible going in is, you don't want risk bending the input shaft.

now the most common mistake i have seen is when putting the trans back on.. because i did it the first time around.... and caught myself........... when placing the trans back on, keep your hand away from the fork. what this does is jar the fork loose from the pivot ball behind the fork which retains it from sliding to far forward.

also a bad TOB will squeal, make sure it has not set to long in an uncontrolled temperature, they do go bad... i had one expload on me.

by jaring it you mean pushing it in slightly, to where it wont sit on the grove for the pivot ball?
yeah we did everything we could not to hit the fork, but in all honesty it got late and we were pretty frustrated. but we basicly put it up upside down and rotated it. not fun at all or easy

the TOB should be good. it came with the kit. but the noise is exactly the same as befor i did my clutch. the clutch is deffinatley not fully disenageing. under load it'll slip all day long. Im kinda lost at this point. its an Stock spec clutch and i have no power adders so it should hold. but yeah thanks guys i hope i didnt come off the wrong way i do appriciate your help.

im willing to bet that the retaining clip in your fork is not latched to the pivot ball bro.. i have fixed to jobs on other cars that have the same symptoms as yours....

one was not latched.... the other didn't have a retaining clip at all... lol

now that u brought that up i had a slight feeling towards the clip. i put it on and was like "for some reason that seem right" i figured it would alighn itself to a point. oh well, back to the garage.

haha yeah u did a right up with 10+ clutches under your belt. i'll be able to do a write up on how to do the same clutch 10 times

what about the retainer clips on the TOB assembly. I only had one clip for one of the forks? think that could contribute as well?

there should be a C clip for the TOB and another clip on the back of the fork.. that latches on to the pivot ball.