vlsd questions
 

Basically I am looking to buy a VLSD for my 95 s14 with ABS, I have been researching but I cannot find the right info, if I bought a used one what maintenace should I expect it to need before I can put it in? To my knowledge, early VLSDs have the slip limiting parts sealed, But most people say that the early VLSD do not limit slip for much more than 50k miles or so. can that be fixed ? or does this problem not really exist? Also does anyone have any suggestions of where I can find a VLSD in good condition for a reasonable price?

I hope you're looking for a viscous for winter reasons, not drift reasons... because if it's #2, then you're wasting $.

You can pickup a used one for the going rate of about $250-ish... just change the fluid and maybe a new cover gasket and it should be fine for winter stuff.

Yeah it's pretty much for winter, there are no tracks around me, and no place to practice drifting without killing myself, or someone else. The problem is I can control my car with an open diff to a point, in the snow, but if I need to come to a complete stop, I have trouble getting the car to move again without the rear sliding out to the left on me.

Here is what I managed to find on a mazda forum

"A VLSD is made up of thin perforated plates that are suspended in a silicone fluid. The plates shear the fluid as the wheels rotate at different speeds. This shearing can equalize the different wheel rates thus limiting slippage. The VLSD only provides a 15-20% locking function when new, so they are not really meant to be a performance item. I have found that the locking action of the VLSD takes a moment to activate when one wheel starts to slip so it usually takes affect after you have already exited the corner. They are really meant to help you get the car moving from a dead stop in slippery conditions and not a performance aid. The VLSD works just fine for it's intended street usage but it will effectively stop limiting slip, from a performance point of view, at some point as the plates can break, the silicone fluid can leak and the tolerance between the plates can wear. For more detail information on how a VLSD operates check out the links page for the BMW and 4x4 articles.

The shop manual states to test a VLSD you put a torque wrench on the hub (wheel in the air) and turn 90 degrees with 11 ft lbs of torque (car in gear). This should take no less than 4 seconds. If less then you have either an open diff or the VLSD is toast. Another test for a good VLSD is to jack up the rear with both rear wheels in the air. A good VLSD will turn both rear wheels in the same direction when manually turning the drive shaft. The open unit (or toasted VLSD) will turn the wheels in the opposite directions. There is no rebuild kit for the VLSD and the unit is completely sealed so you can't even get inside it short of cutting it"

"http://64.233.161.104/search?q=cache:EjFBg7VA9QcJ:www.miata.net/garage/vlsd.html+mazda+VLSD&hl=en"

I am guessing that most used VLSDs will be worn by the time I can get one and will not be worth it for me to try and buy. New VLSD cost $1400, so for now I am going to look into a phantomgrip limited slip, since I really don't need anythything too serious $349, and all you have to do is pop it into your existing diff. I had one in a saturn I had a while back, and it worked pretty good.

you can search the classified for one for sale.