10.7:1
Thread Starter
Contributing Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 513
From: Illinois
10.7:1
If i was to increase my compression to 10.7:1 with pistons. Would i have to upgrade anything else going on a stock ka?
And Does the engine have to come out to change the pistons? While i was working on my stang, i notice if you take off the oil pan you can see the connecting rods. Cant you take the bolts out and take the heads off and push the rod and piston through the top? If not what other ways are there to do it?
Any information is appreciated.
-joe
And Does the engine have to come out to change the pistons? While i was working on my stang, i notice if you take off the oil pan you can see the connecting rods. Cant you take the bolts out and take the heads off and push the rod and piston through the top? If not what other ways are there to do it?
Any information is appreciated.
-joe
Contributing Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,634
From: Hershey, PA
not a NA master, but i think you would want bigger injectors and a safc or fuel management... not sure if the engine must come out or not... but it would make it a hell of a lot easier to pull it i'd think
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 29
From: Everett, WA
i can not see anything wrong with swapping the pistons with the engine in... but it is so much easier with the engine on a stand. and then you can do it right, and replace all the bearings, gaskets etc.
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 280
From: nyc
na= not much hp and lots of money
turbo= way moore hp and and same or less money
and yes u can replace the pistons with out taking out the motor
u have to remove sway bar jack the motor up 3 inches and drop the crossmember a lilbit for the oilpan to come off then ucan just work from the bottom pull the whole rod/piston assembly but honestly i think its a waste to go with highcompression my 2cents
turbo= way moore hp and and same or less money
and yes u can replace the pistons with out taking out the motor
u have to remove sway bar jack the motor up 3 inches and drop the crossmember a lilbit for the oilpan to come off then ucan just work from the bottom pull the whole rod/piston assembly but honestly i think its a waste to go with highcompression my 2cents
Last edited by chiroke; Nov 27, 2005 at 09:52 AM.
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 231
From: NJ
High compression N/A, metal head gasket, new stronger valves a, springs andretainers. all new bearings , Larger injectors .
if you take the oil pan off, I dunno about the KA, you should gain easy access to the bolts for the conntecting rod, if you take the head off prior, you should be able to unbolt the connectiong rods from the crank, and then push the connectiong rod with the pistion right out the top side w/o problems.
if you take the oil pan off, I dunno about the KA, you should gain easy access to the bolts for the conntecting rod, if you take the head off prior, you should be able to unbolt the connectiong rods from the crank, and then push the connectiong rod with the pistion right out the top side w/o problems.
Much easier to take the whole engine out with a cherry picker. You may run into problems installing new pistons in a chassis.
It's just ALWAYS better to put an engine together outside of the chassis.
I've never personally ever met anyone that put an engine together from the ground up strapped to the chassis. Just seems weird.
It's just ALWAYS better to put an engine together outside of the chassis.
I've never personally ever met anyone that put an engine together from the ground up strapped to the chassis. Just seems weird.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 513
From: Illinois
well i dont have the room to take it all out, and doin it in the car seems to fit just right lol. I cant imagine it being that hard. Any ideas wat kind of hp gain i'll get from those kind of pistons?
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Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 999
From: knoxville tn
upping the compression ratio will gain you a little power i have seen from 12 to 27 hp on dyno sheets from just adding the kae rods and pistons... but raising just the compression ratio can be bad on your motor... you will also need to add more fuel and air to see any real gains... bigger injectors and head work with a set of cams will pull you close to the 200 hp mark...
im with everyne else you can do the rods without removing the motor... but you have to strip the block down to nothing already... the only thing that will still be in the car is the block... i would suggest that you pull the motor and work on a stand... that way you can clean and inspect and replace parts as you need better than if the block is still in the car...
im with everyne else you can do the rods without removing the motor... but you have to strip the block down to nothing already... the only thing that will still be in the car is the block... i would suggest that you pull the motor and work on a stand... that way you can clean and inspect and replace parts as you need better than if the block is still in the car...
Banned
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 41
From: Hollywood
it is much easier to pull the engine out and assemble it, but if you have insuffiecient space, or are on a low budget and for some strange reason can't get a picker, the yes it is possible, and not too difficult to do it still harnessed. my buddy just rebuilt his block and head in that manner toward a 475 rwhp goal. of course though, you are not going to be able to replace every bearing, seal and gasket easily with the engine in, thats why it's better to simply rent a picker and pull the ***** out.
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,550
From: Slidell, LA
155hp in a car that weighs less than 4000 pounds? hell yeah it is. Keep your motor stock, get a nice exhaust, headers, intake, and some of the free mods that you can do and then see what its like. Just my 2 cents