best motor for drag
 

hello everyone trying to figure wat is the best motor for the dragstrip. I have a 89 and is completly stripped front end no wires nothing. I was getting ready to put a chevy 350 in there and then found there would be no room for 2 turbos so it wasnt gonna be to fast then. So now i am at a stop tryin to figure out wat motor because i have never seen a 240sx 350 do good times at the strip. If anyone has please post i really want a 350 in there but i want turbos because thats where the power is at. So if anyone has direction for me please post.

what about a VG30dett? it has 285BHP already.

bro anything is good for drag.. the issue is how much money and knowledge do you have to sink into a motor... Remembre Ivan of Ka-t.org is running 9's with a Fully Fully Built KA-t... not to promotor ka-t's but bigger is not better bro.....

U can get alot of power from a chevy 350. my dad runs a AMC 390 motor. and he can get 500whp on all motor. its really easy.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_LS_engine#LS7



WINNAR!!!

the ls7 i dont think will fit

and a 350 adds to much weight to horsepower if i cant get 2 turbos on it

i might as well go tuning the ka-t

i have seen people with 350s with blowers but they still have yet to put up a good time

besides if u blow up a ka-t it is so easy to pull out and cheaper to rebuild then the 350

i have to have a turbo - i just love the sound

LS7 will fit

anything will fit. but make it easy on yourself and go with chevrolet

Can I buy some of the crack you are smoking?

NO motor is cheaper to rebuild than a SBC (small block Chevy)

you can buy a complete rebuild kit for $375 thats gaskets, pistons, rings, rods, ect.. Granted its not forged stuff but a rebuild none the less. show me where that can be done on a KA.

If you can fit a 350 why wouldn't you be able to fit an LS7? last I checked they are the same size, and the LS7 is shorter with no oil pan and no carb on top of the intake.

LS1=$3000 engine/6-speed trans/ ecu/ wiring harness.
$1500 in heads/cam/NO2 will net you 600whp easy.

^^^Obviously you haven't thought a few things through... An Lsx swap cost A-LOT. About 10K by the time it's running. You forgot the custom radiator, clutch conversion lines, wiring service,custom mounts, tranny mount, gto oil pan, custom driveshaft, intake manifold, and a few other knick- knacks. Also if you blow up your KA you can buy another one for $250 in perfect running condition.

dam fool .. were u find a ka for that cheap.. the cheapest ka i found in sac was 1300 pulled from a wreckd 240 here in cali.. u gotta hit me up wit the number .. cuz ill take a ka for for 250..

You can find a KA anywhere in cali for 200 bucks.

I have run a 12.56@111 using a stock ls1 w/t56 and stock open diff in my s14. This is with a stiff ass megan street coilover and heavy 350z touring 18s with Nitto Neo Gen 245/40/18s and full interior. I even had to put about 180 pounds of stuff in the trunk to get it to stick. I was able to pull a 1.87 60ft. I am pretty confident, that with an upgraded clutch/lsd/drag radials that a 1.6 or better 60 ft would be possible and get me into the low 12s. Also, I am using the stock z28 exhaust manifolds, so the addition of headers and cam would net me about 70-90 horsepower without sacrificing my low end.

If you must have forced induction, there are some people having really good success with the STS remote mount setup only pushing about 5psi, and putting down over 500whp. If it were strictly a drag car, then just do a 5.3 liter iron block lsx and push about 11 psi to it. Should net you about 650whp at a cost of about 7000 grand.

At my power levels, I am not worried about reliability. I drive my car every day, and I still get between 22-26 mpg. I could easily just put a 100 shot of nos on for the drag strip and run mid to high 11s at 120.

I guess you need to decide what fast means to you.:beer05:

You're right I am a complete idiot, the Built LS1 sitting in my garage awaiting its spring transplant means nothing. I will be into my car (95 S14) about 10k when its all said and done. That includes the price of the car.

If you have half a brain and a garage full of tools you can do 98% of it yourself

Radiator uses the same bottom bracket setup as a lot of fords and is about $200-$300 and about $3 in scrap aluminum to make your own top brackets.( you have to do a rad for a SR20 as well)

clutch conversion I paid $80 for and that included a pedal assembly (my car is a slush box)

It takes 4 yes 4 wire connections to make a LS1 run. thats it. if you aren't color blind and can stand reading through a miata or RX7 forum you can find the wiring guide, and figure it out yourself.

Use Corvette motor mounts and they just so happen to fit in the S chassis $40

Tranny mount was $ 10 in material and I spent an hour welding it.

GTO oil pan from a yard was $30

Custom drive shaft including donor 240 shaft from yard $300

Total so far $760 in parts needed to make it run.

I have also spent $1600 on heads/Cam/intake mani/TB

Motor/trans/ecu/harness- $2500 w/8k on the clock after a forged bottom end rebuild out of a wrecked 2000 F-body. I was VERY patient while looking for a donor drivetrain, I just happened upon a guy that rolled his car and I bought it from his insurance and paid him the difference. (woot for rear disc brakes on the syclone now!)

$2500 is very typical of a 90k mile drivetrain setup out of a F body.

Total $4860
+Car $4000
+misc $500

GRAND TOTAL $9360 for a car that I expect to make about 480-500whp N/A and that can handle a 250 shot with ease.

I assumed that I will spend another $500 for AC conversion stuff and headers/exhaust.



If I was cheap and just wanted a LS1/S13 drag car it could be done for $4k including the shell. That car w/o spray would run low 11's with a good driver/tires at sea level.

you could do a built carb'd iron block for the same price and run faster.