Electronic Oil Pressure gauge
06-30-2007, 01:23 PM
#1
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Electronic Oil Pressure gauge
coming in a few
Ok I just got around to installing a Oil Psi Gauge.. should actually be installed with any turbo/NA setup just for safety and monitoring . I was also having a over oiling issue with my new setup and this told me exactly how bad it was. now i have to add a oil restrictor to my setup...... this is also done on my turbo KA that already has a T present. if you don't have a T get one they are very cheap or just screw the sender into the block, but .. you can also get a + fitting also so that you can run you stock oil pressure sender along with everything else.
i went with an electric gauge becuase i don't like mechanical gauges and i don't fell like dealing with a oil leak inside my cabin if the ferrule is not clamped properly.
this is the first half "hard" part of the install, the second half of wiring/mounting the gauge can be done so many ways. so ill leave that up to you the installer. just follow the directions in the gauge manual..I am using a faze gauge, but they all are generally the same process.
Tools/Material Needed
Oil gauge
( if turbo) -3an to 1/8npt 90 degree fitting ( if you have -4an get the respective fitting)
Adjustable wrench
1/2 wrench
Teflon tape
wire cutters
18 gauge wire
electrical tape
9mm wrench/ratchet
oil pan
wire loom
soldering iron
(optional)small O ring electrical connections
1.Place oil pan right under oil filter location to catch the small amount of oil
2. remove oil filter and oil lines. also make sure the T looks somewhat like mine, this will give you clearance away from the oil filter and also allow you to easily hook up the sender wire.
3.place Teflon tape around threads in the direction of the thread pattern on both the 90deg fitting and Sender
4. Insert 90 deg fitting into T and hook oil lines up like so ( Note.. don't install it like this.. put the sender in the middle of the T facing down. I broke Three 1/8th npt fittings do to vibration and simple physics.)
5.you now will take a length of 18 gauge wire thats long enough to make it into you cabin.. you may route this how ever you want.. just make sure if you run it behind the motor that you add extra shielding to protect the wire. you can run it through the ecu section on the fire wall and or drill a hole in your fire wall like so for all you accessories. if you drill make sure you check both sides to ensure you are not drilling into anything
6. After you have run the wire hook it up like so inserting washer on first and then your wire with the ring style electrical connection provided.
7. Look at your manual to get wire hook up directions if you need it
8. Start car up and check for leaks and then look at your psi level for an stock 240 3000 rpm no load 60-70 PSI is standard. for many turbo setups you should be sitting at about 50 psi at idle you ideally wanna stay around 55 psi at 3000 rpms for many turbo setup. much more over that at 3000rpms and you will be probably be over oiling
Ok I just got around to installing a Oil Psi Gauge.. should actually be installed with any turbo/NA setup just for safety and monitoring . I was also having a over oiling issue with my new setup and this told me exactly how bad it was. now i have to add a oil restrictor to my setup...... this is also done on my turbo KA that already has a T present. if you don't have a T get one they are very cheap or just screw the sender into the block, but .. you can also get a + fitting also so that you can run you stock oil pressure sender along with everything else.
i went with an electric gauge becuase i don't like mechanical gauges and i don't fell like dealing with a oil leak inside my cabin if the ferrule is not clamped properly.
this is the first half "hard" part of the install, the second half of wiring/mounting the gauge can be done so many ways. so ill leave that up to you the installer. just follow the directions in the gauge manual..I am using a faze gauge, but they all are generally the same process.
Tools/Material Needed
Oil gauge
( if turbo) -3an to 1/8npt 90 degree fitting ( if you have -4an get the respective fitting)
Adjustable wrench
1/2 wrench
Teflon tape
wire cutters
18 gauge wire
electrical tape
9mm wrench/ratchet
oil pan
wire loom
soldering iron
(optional)small O ring electrical connections
1.Place oil pan right under oil filter location to catch the small amount of oil
2. remove oil filter and oil lines. also make sure the T looks somewhat like mine, this will give you clearance away from the oil filter and also allow you to easily hook up the sender wire.
3.place Teflon tape around threads in the direction of the thread pattern on both the 90deg fitting and Sender
4. Insert 90 deg fitting into T and hook oil lines up like so ( Note.. don't install it like this.. put the sender in the middle of the T facing down. I broke Three 1/8th npt fittings do to vibration and simple physics.)
5.you now will take a length of 18 gauge wire thats long enough to make it into you cabin.. you may route this how ever you want.. just make sure if you run it behind the motor that you add extra shielding to protect the wire. you can run it through the ecu section on the fire wall and or drill a hole in your fire wall like so for all you accessories. if you drill make sure you check both sides to ensure you are not drilling into anything
6. After you have run the wire hook it up like so inserting washer on first and then your wire with the ring style electrical connection provided.
7. Look at your manual to get wire hook up directions if you need it
8. Start car up and check for leaks and then look at your psi level for an stock 240 3000 rpm no load 60-70 PSI is standard. for many turbo setups you should be sitting at about 50 psi at idle you ideally wanna stay around 55 psi at 3000 rpms for many turbo setup. much more over that at 3000rpms and you will be probably be over oiling
Last edited by Biggamehit; 09-09-2007 at 11:50 AM.
06-30-2007, 07:14 PM
#2
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Starkville, MS.
Posts: 1,192
Sweet write-up Airman Jackson. I'm confident that I'll be able to complete my engine swap, cooling, electrical, turbo, etc. but the only thing I'm nervous about is the installation of the gauges that I will need. This will come in handy.
Last edited by positron; 06-30-2007 at 07:16 PM.
06-30-2007, 09:47 PM
#3
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yea man very simple bro... all you want to do is make sure you get the power from a fuse thats on a switch. meaning that its activated when the ignition is cut on and doesn't remain on after the key is switched off.
for those that don't know the old trick.. all you need is a test light and or volt meter. take your prob and insert them into one of these spots
(see fig1)
now with the ignition in the off position... if you get a light that means this is a constant power to something such as a clock and or the memory for your radio. You dont want to use any of those fuses. only the ones that come on when the key is turned
Fig 1
for those that don't know the old trick.. all you need is a test light and or volt meter. take your prob and insert them into one of these spots
(see fig1)
now with the ignition in the off position... if you get a light that means this is a constant power to something such as a clock and or the memory for your radio. You dont want to use any of those fuses. only the ones that come on when the key is turned
Fig 1
03-17-2008, 05:33 PM
#4
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: CA
Posts: 6
what is the steel braided line in the pics?
also i dont understand what u mean in step 4 ( Note.. don't install it like this.. put the sender in the middle of the T facing down. I broke Three 1/8th npt fittings do to vibration and simple physics.)
if u could explain it to me that would be great if u have pics as to how to instal step 4 properly that would be great to thank you for the write up
also i dont understand what u mean in step 4 ( Note.. don't install it like this.. put the sender in the middle of the T facing down. I broke Three 1/8th npt fittings do to vibration and simple physics.)
if u could explain it to me that would be great if u have pics as to how to instal step 4 properly that would be great to thank you for the write up
Last edited by proughj; 03-18-2008 at 01:25 AM.
03-18-2008, 04:09 AM
#5
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i am turbo bro.. the steel braided line is my oil feed like.... if you are not turbo you can just screw the sender right into the stock oil filter location unit.
if you wanna use your stock sender also, just buy a T like the one in my picture... and where you see the braided line.. you screw your stock sender into that section
also if you go turbo just don't install the sender like i did in the picture... it will break off.
if you wanna use your stock sender also, just buy a T like the one in my picture... and where you see the braided line.. you screw your stock sender into that section
also if you go turbo just don't install the sender like i did in the picture... it will break off.
07-22-2009, 09:27 PM
#8
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: winter springs,fl
Posts: 39
i was wondering where would i get a t fitting like that . but i have a na and i was wondering if i need the stock oil pressure sender. if not can i just hook up my after market oil pressure sender their?
07-23-2009, 03:54 AM
#9
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the T fitting you can get from an auto store.. you can also get them from Lowes.. just make sure they are the blocks as they are stronger.
it would be a good thing to leave the Stock pressure switch in. but honestly., once that light comes on its to late. once you monitor you new gauge, you can see clearly when pressure is low.
it would be a good thing to leave the Stock pressure switch in. but honestly., once that light comes on its to late. once you monitor you new gauge, you can see clearly when pressure is low.
07-31-2009, 07:15 PM
#12
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Cokeburg, PA
Posts: 593
Oil psi light=too late. LOL. My old 240 never even had time to throw the light...Driving down a road and the chain tensioner cap blew off (new one...defective aparantly) since it was after the filter it never even registered until it was too late. Motor locked up never to be ran again.
Moral of story...great write up and to everyone without an oil psi gauge...get one. :thumbsup
Moral of story...great write up and to everyone without an oil psi gauge...get one. :thumbsup
07-31-2009, 09:03 PM
#13
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One thing I will say is.... spend the money for a good one... the faze guage helped me for what i needed at the time.. but it was not very stable until i was under boost.
at steady idle it would jump around which was the guage and not so good sender unit. I checked all my wiring etc it was a pure signal. Autometer is good and afforable.
whatever you do.. don't run a mechnical guage inside your car... it's bad buisness.
Note: Don't install your sender like this. It snapped two of my 1/8th NPT fittings do to simple physics. Install the sender in the middle facing down.
at steady idle it would jump around which was the guage and not so good sender unit. I checked all my wiring etc it was a pure signal. Autometer is good and afforable.
whatever you do.. don't run a mechnical guage inside your car... it's bad buisness.
Note: Don't install your sender like this. It snapped two of my 1/8th NPT fittings do to simple physics. Install the sender in the middle facing down.
Last edited by Biggamehit; 07-31-2009 at 09:06 PM.