S-Chassis.com - S13 Wheel Stud Replacement

I finally got off my duff and replaced that wheel stud that I broke a couple of months ago.

Tools needed:
Jack
Jackstands
Socket wrench
17mm socket
14mm socket
3lb. hammer
Washers
Lug wrench

Attachment 23332
I've been riding around for a couple of months now with one missing lug nut on my rear drivers side...it ends today!
Attachment 23333
First, jack the car up, place your jackstands in the appropriate places and remove the wheels. In order to gain access to the hub so that you can remove the broken wheel stud, you need to remove the brake caliper and the brake rotor.
Attachment 23334
In order to get the rotors on and off you'll need to remove the brake caliper. You start by removing the torque member bolt with a 17mm socket. There are two bolts on the torque member, top and bottom. This is the top bolt.
Attachment 23335
This is the bottom torque member bolt.
Attachment 23336
Torque member bolt-top.
Attachment 23337
If you can't wriggle the caliper off then you may need to slightly loosen the pin bolts. There are two pin bolts. This is the top pin bolt.
Attachment 23338
This is the bottom pin bolt.
Attachment 23339
Here's the caliper.
Attachment 23340
Here's the torque member that it bolts to.
Attachment 23341
You don't want the caliper hanging by the brake line, which could damage the line, so you use something to hold the caliper with while keeping stress off the brake line. I didn't have any metal coat hangers so I used a small bungee cord. Put one end on the top of your springs and hang the other on the caliper.
Attachment 23342
Rotor
Attachment 23343
The rear rotor is slip-fit so it just comes off when you pull it.
Attachment 23344
Exposed hub.
Attachment 23345
You'll probably find that the wheel stud is rusted so hit it with some PB Blaster and let it sit for 10 minutes.
Attachment 23346
After the PB does it's thing, you're ready to knock out the wheel stud.
Attachment 23347
Grab your trusty hammer like the Mighty Thor and raise it toward the heavens...uh, the Mighty Thor isn't black and he doesn't wear a wrist watch either.
Attachment 23348
Here's the stud that needs to be swapped out and the new stud...shiny!!!
Attachment 23349
To remove the stud, you need to knock it out with a hammer, I used a 3lb. hammer. I started off by hitting it from my left, I hit the stud probably 20 times and it didn't budge.
Attachment 23350
I got a little angry that it wouldn't move so I switched to my right side and manned-up. The first blow that I hit it with knocked it loose.
Attachment 23351
After knocking it loose, I used a small hammer and a flathead screwdriver to hammer and chisel the stud the rest of the way out of the hub.
Attachment 23352
Finally got it out!
Attachment 23353
The busted stud and the new one...again.
Attachment 23354
Take the new stud...
Attachment 23355
and insert it into the hub. Put some anti-seize on it before inserting to keep it from rusting in the future.
Attachment 23356
This is where the washers come into use. You'll need to place a couple of them on the wheel stud to keep the lug nut that you're going to use from bottoming out.
Attachment 23357
Take a lug nut and place it on the new stud.
Attachment 23358
Lug wrench.
Attachment 23359
Tighten the lug nut as far as you can, doing this will pull the new wheel stud into the hub.
Attachment 23360
You'll only be able to turn the lug wrench so far because of something you did earlier. By taking off the caliper and disconnecting the e-brake, the wheel now spins freely making it a pain to hold still and turn the lug wrench.
Attachment 23361
This is when you need to put your brake rotor and caliper back on so that you can use the e-brake to keep the wheel immobile. After you get everything back together, place a spacer or two on the wheel stud again.
Attachment 23362
Now that the wheel doesn't move you can tighten that wheel stud as far as you can get it in order to seat it into the hub.
Attachment 23363
Finished! Put your wheels back on, drop the car and you're ready to go.