Creating/installing Solid Motor Mounts
09-08-2007, 03:46 PM
#1
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Creating/installing Solid Motor Mounts
ok simple DIY if you have the time. I was going to pick up some nismo solid mounts, but i figured i would just make my own, very simple
Materials
s13/s14 motor mount ( s14 mounts bolt hole is slightly more forward then a s13's mount)
3m Window Weld
Caulk style gun
tape
17mm wrench
14mm wrench
14mm socket
12mm socket
3/8th extension
Creating Solid Mounts
-----------------------
-apply tape like so and then fill the mounts up, you want to make sure that you have no air pockets. you can use any kind of straight edge such as cardboard to force the window weld into place
-finish product.. now allow to bake in sun for at least 2 hours and then you can move them inside and let them sit for at least 2 days to fully cure.
Installing Mounts
-------------------
-Start by jacking the front of your car up and giving yourself space to move around below
-remove the 14mm nuts at the bottom of the mount. on the driver side use a 14mm socket and extension. On the passenger side you can use the closed end of the 14mm wrench
-remove the upper nuts from the mounts on both sides
-Proceed to your transmission mount and remove the bottom two nuts to give yourself extra clearance
-Place jack in this position and raise to remove mounts. if you need more space refer the the second photo below this text.
.
-remove mounts
-insert new mounts and make sure the L and R on the mounts are facing you for proper installation. when you are putting the mounts in. follow the motion that i did. this will allow the bottom section of the mount to clear the Crossmember and drop in.
Once the mounts are in position, with your hand, screw the 14mm nuts on the top and bottom of the mounts this will hold the mounts in place somewhat so that when you lower the motor back down. it will fall into place
Bonus Material
on the driver side you will see these two lines.. well i don't have power steering and i cut the lines off inside the engine bay a while ago. you could do this to shorten the line and leave your engine bay looking more cleaner.
the reason that this is important is, you want to keep a certain amount of fluid in your Rack n Pinion becuase if it drys out you will need another one.
cut, hammer, crimp
PS
i know my undercarriage is filthy.. ill clean it when i get back from Iraq
Materials
s13/s14 motor mount ( s14 mounts bolt hole is slightly more forward then a s13's mount)
3m Window Weld
Caulk style gun
tape
17mm wrench
14mm wrench
14mm socket
12mm socket
3/8th extension
Creating Solid Mounts
-----------------------
-apply tape like so and then fill the mounts up, you want to make sure that you have no air pockets. you can use any kind of straight edge such as cardboard to force the window weld into place
-finish product.. now allow to bake in sun for at least 2 hours and then you can move them inside and let them sit for at least 2 days to fully cure.
Installing Mounts
-------------------
-Start by jacking the front of your car up and giving yourself space to move around below
-remove the 14mm nuts at the bottom of the mount. on the driver side use a 14mm socket and extension. On the passenger side you can use the closed end of the 14mm wrench
-remove the upper nuts from the mounts on both sides
-Proceed to your transmission mount and remove the bottom two nuts to give yourself extra clearance
-Place jack in this position and raise to remove mounts. if you need more space refer the the second photo below this text.
.-remove mounts
-insert new mounts and make sure the L and R on the mounts are facing you for proper installation. when you are putting the mounts in. follow the motion that i did. this will allow the bottom section of the mount to clear the Crossmember and drop in.
Once the mounts are in position, with your hand, screw the 14mm nuts on the top and bottom of the mounts this will hold the mounts in place somewhat so that when you lower the motor back down. it will fall into place
Bonus Material
on the driver side you will see these two lines.. well i don't have power steering and i cut the lines off inside the engine bay a while ago. you could do this to shorten the line and leave your engine bay looking more cleaner.
the reason that this is important is, you want to keep a certain amount of fluid in your Rack n Pinion becuase if it drys out you will need another one.
cut, hammer, crimp
PS
i know my undercarriage is filthy.. ill clean it when i get back from Iraq
Last edited by Biggamehit; 09-09-2007 at 12:16 PM.
sweet bro let me know how they work out
09-09-2007, 12:14 PM
#11
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awesome took it out last night.. and the transition coming from a hard corner is awesome now.. no violent snap backs.
lil vibration at idle. but thats normal for somewhat solid mounts. the window weld has a slight bit of give so that help absorb some of the kinetic energy
lil vibration at idle. but thats normal for somewhat solid mounts. the window weld has a slight bit of give so that help absorb some of the kinetic energy
09-10-2007, 06:34 AM
#12
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: SWFLA.
Posts: 401
hockey pucks.
-does anybody really have any problems with the hockey puck motor mounts? The only two problems i could find would be the stiffness of the mounts (too stiff), and their durability. I found some guy that has had the same hockey pucks on his daily driven VW golf since 1997, and no cracks or rotting, so durability isn't a problem. Also i plan on making a "vibration absorbing layer" of window weld between the two pucks (about 1/4"). I actually went out and bought the 2-5/16" X 3" bolts and the locking nuts, lock washers, and reg. washers today after school, so i plan on doing this in the next few days. Also i asked the dude at lowes where i could find window weld and he didn't know what it was.
09-10-2007, 07:07 AM
#13
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Misawa, Japan
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na bro.. its no issue with it.. only thing is you may have to double them up or use some big washers because one puck would lower the motor and put you at risk of slamming the oil pan.
