hehehe, you can also balance the internals along as add some boring to the list. Yay, more money to spend, lol. And that dyno, although has a lot of power, does look a little, rough so to say.

 

it was his car's first run since coming back from JWT. he is working on the ignition problems as we speak.

 

Boltons, Apexi AFC, JWT Cams, Valve springs , JWT high flow injectors, Cobra Mass airflow sensor. You're probably looking at 170whp+ there. I'll try to get the dyno sheets from that setup.

 

there hasn't been many strong and HEALTHY N/A KAs out there... but there will be soon, sage (new to the club) is working on ITBs! and project cheap is right about SOME kids thowing money at other people to turbo their KA.. in the long run they will see. Try throwing some POOR KA-t kids at a couple laps of buttonwillow, they're bound to more problems than N/A KA's

 

would a turbo out of a probe work?

 

WOW.

 

I just dynoed my STOCK KA and got some good numbers. I got 126hp@5.6k and 130.4 ft-lbs@4.6K. I'm gonna post up the sheet in the General Chat section soon, so look for it there.

 

this is a very good thread if it stays on track soon i'm going to get a pdm cam mill the head a little and port and polish. i'm also gona rebuild the head completly. i dont have any dynos avaleble but it should help alot hopfully around 150-170 horse power with all my boltons including injectors. pry a lot closer to 150
oh and its an E

 

I got the dyno up. Check it here. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...0Car/dyno1.jpg

 

Project cheap 13 is right if you dont believe him read my post. I have been engine swapping KA24de/e/det into datsun 510's for only a couple of years. But what I do know is the equation Displacement/bore/stroke. For you guys that didn't go to high school and do math go ahead and buy an over rated, over priced SR20det. They are worth zero and just put you in det. The sr20det's do not pass DOT approval, that means to all you idiots out there they do not pass the ASE certified smog emission standards test, "YOU CAN'T REGISTER YOUR VEHICLE". Look at all the BullS#%t guys selling there worthless non smogable cars on ebay. There are plenty of them.
KA24de/e N/A can easily run 250HP for under 2grand. Or you can buy an sr20det for 2grand do the engine swap for 1.2grand, and have it be a waist of money when you can't smog it. Take your pick.http://www.club240.com/forums/showth...405#post138405

 

that's true ... but not everywhere has smog testing. and if you wanted power, the sr20 has stock of around 200 or something, you can go way up from there.

but, i agree

 

First off i dont like the fact that this nice post is becomming a turbo vs na battle.

Depending on what u look for in ur car, the NA KA could be perfect for u. great low end/mid torque. If u want to do something real with the engine, get it rebuilt. The problem with KA24E's is that they have so many miles. U take any engine sr included and put 220,000+ miles on it like i had its gonna be weak.

If ur serious about doing NA KA, atleast get the head rebuilt(street Port maybe 3 angle valve job, cams, Headers and remove the butterfly valves in the intake(it will make the idle alittle more rough but nicer uptop). U'll be good to go!

 

To rebuild a KA24e/de will roughly cost $750.00. So while the engine is open on the rebuild already have your performance cams, and whatever other performance parts you would want on. Those installs that you would normally pay for would be free, because the engine is open and preped. Rebuilds work as well as a new production engine. After the rebuild you would have a 200 HP at the crank, N/A for a fraction of the cost of what it would take to purchase and install a 205hp sr20det. Besides the turbos on the sr20det roughly last for 65,000miles, and turbo repaires are costly. If you feel you want to go turbo. Look at the dyno charts on a KA24det it is a much wiser investment than an RB25det, and an sr20det. Read the clip I pulled from turbo magazine they give the dyno charts on the Greddy turbo with ecu piggy back system. www.turbomagazine.com/features/0404tur_kit/
The only reason that the KA24det would be better than the RB25det is only that the KA24det produces more torque. The displacement per piston on an RB25det is smaller, so the strokes are smaller in rotation creating less torque. Hope you guys understand my post.

 

I also forgot to mention, the head on the KA24de is an anemic head. Porting the intake alone will add 15HP at the crank. Or like project cheap 13 you can purchase a P&P head. Even if you install an intake only cam it will not function at it's full potential if you do not port the head. The true potential of a street performance cam should be roughly 30HP at the crank on avg.. If you do not max out at 30 HP the intake ports are to small, so port them out.

 

god so meny people went off topic... i plan on building an na ka24de for my corolla.. and ill end up spending as much as a an sr20det installed and will be close to the power.. and by close i mean by a good 50-60 hp more to the wheels... you guys keep forgeting the sr20det produces ~200hp&tq to the crank.. so all your really seeing is ~170 to the wheels... if thats all you do... (i used the -15% rule of thumb) and a NA ka with 170hp is only like 1/4th the prices of the sr swap.. you guys also neglect the fact that a ka with a turbo just slaped on with no tuning with 4 pounds of boost will produce as much as an sr at 7... at 4 pounds you wont even need an intercooler... and at 7 pounds with a smic you will produce more to the wheels then the sr does to the crank.. stop using Ragenomics guys geezz... more power is way more simpler and cheaper then you guys say... and ill post my budget and power when im finished..