lack of power....
 

have a question regarding my s13 w/ kade.....recently did slight tune up on vehicle (changed oil, filter,air filter, plugs, and wires) and evrything was running geat. Outside temp at the time was a high of 68-70....but now that its been getting up tp about 88-90, after about 20 mins of driving-the car acts like it has a total loss in power. i was thinking it might need a new o2 sensor but wasnt sure if it would help. What i mean by loss of power is....par say i roll up to a stop light....get the green arrow and go. Befor it gets sluggish it'll deff shy and get and roll hard.....but after the 20 mins in the heat, same scenerio with the green light but its not the same take off. its almost like a pedal to the floor just to go. it seems like it is a sluggish turd. was told that me having a little 3/8" crak in my exhaust(pipe to muffler seam) is whats causing it....but it didnt make sense to me because it runs great until aftre, like i said-20-25 mins. any ideas guys?? what could cause this/fix this?? my buddy said his s14 did the same thing but it was somthn to do with his trans....im lost. Any help will be greatly appriciated. thanx

my first impulse would be to say that it's probably the faulty coolant temp sensor. you should check for trouble codes to be sure though.

things to consider:
-bad mafs or mafs connector
-leaky injector or cracked injector o-ring
-bad tps
-faulty ecu coolant temp sensor
-problem with the actual ecu itself
-low compression

thanx a ton guys. I kinda hav somthn to work off of. Kind of a tool quest....but wheres the TPS located?? thanx again yall 240 gurus

i'm not saying these are not valid possibilities, but based on the fact that temperature and time seem to be a somehow correlated, i'd be willing to rule out everthoing but the ecu and coolent temp sensor.

well i talked to my best friend, last summer we swapped in a redtop into his s14. He still has the auto trans, ka-de, and evrything else that was ripped out of the car. Question is.....will his s14 ECU work in my s13?? Also.....i was under my hood and noticed that the big rubber hose (vacuum hose maybe??) on the front left of my engine was cracked and broken at the top where the clamp attaches it to the valve cover. I know this is causing an air leak and what not, but would this have any relations to whats wrong with it lately?? one last thing......as i was checking for the location of my CTS, i found 2 different sensor-type connections in that area. Which is what?? is the CTS on the left or right??? thanx dudes

well.....jus got done messin with my car and as i was inspecting the removal of the AVI(tryin to clean up my engine bay) i noticed that my o2 sensor looks pretty bad. it looks kinda broken where the wires go into at and it seems like it has soot on it. It isnt throwing any codes to get the CEL on....but would this hav anything at all to do with it??? was going to get one as soon as i get paid(this friday) and i checked out autozone-they have a Bosch sensor for $20 or a Denso unit for $60.....question is, i know you get what you pay for and all that....but is ther any real difference between the two?? which would be the better route to take?? thanx again dudes

anythng??

i don't remember right off eh top of my head but i believe that there are some wires that need to repined. for some reason the maf keeps coming to mind but i could be wrong. your best bet is to get a fsm for both and compare the pin outs, you should be able to use it.

the one you need to test is the one that has two pins, i don't remember if it's the left or right but the other is for the temp gauge


yes it would, i've noticed that obdI equipped vehicles don't always have the cel come on for some reason. it's not until you acutely check for codes that you find out that there is a code.

jramos....thank you very much man. thanx a ton for the feedback. Ima put in a new o2 sensor this weekend and pull out the CTS and prolly swap it out wit a diff one(friends ka-de jus sits in his garage on a dolly, can rape off any parts i want) after i do that stuff ill repost with an update if theres any change or not. again....thanx alot dude.

so this all happened after you did a tune-up right? if that's so i think you all are looking into it wayyy too deep. I would suggest a faulty tune-up part as the distributor cap, rotor, plugs and/or wires. 1st check the spark plugs, make sure they're gapped right. They say they come factory gapped, BUT they're also made for others vehicles too. When I bought some NGK V-power spark plugs which are OE for the ka24de, they were gapped wrong and I noticed i'm loseing power. Also check to see if you put the wires are on right, you should have noticed which wires where connecting to which holes on the distributor cap when taking them off. check to see if the contacts on the bottom of the distributor cap are still intacted and not cracked or coming off.

check these and then let me know!!!!

they were platinum plugs and didnt need gapped. what plugs are best to run in a stock KA24DE??

copper plugs set to .044 ( oe gap )

koo lah brotha....thanx. NGK's were outta stock....so i jus picked up the champion ones for now. They any good or are they crap??

i personally don't use champion on anything other than a lawn mower, at one pint some said that champion was the ngk of the domestics but i don't believe it. i like the following plugs in this order; ngk platinum, ngk v power, bosch platinum, autolites/ac delco .

multi-electrode and iridium plugs are not wroth the money imo.