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It's HERE! 1986 Toyota Corolla SR5 aka The New Track Car

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Old Dec 1, 2007 | 01:33 AM
  #91  
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Thanks for the kind words mate . . .feel free to post up pictures of your hachi, it's sure to give me some ideas. I'm trying to circle the idea of which engine I'm going to pop inside of her . . .20 valve is looking more and more definitive . . .although the 16 valve is looking more economical.

We'll see . . . . ^_^

-Stig
Old Dec 1, 2007 | 10:14 AM
  #92  
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oh mine is just a stock gts coupe lol..i just got my s13 put back together...
Old Dec 1, 2007 | 10:16 AM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by USMCDrifter
Thanks for the kind words mate . . .feel free to post up pictures of your hachi, it's sure to give me some ideas. I'm trying to circle the idea of which engine I'm going to pop inside of her . . .20 valve is looking more and more definitive . . .although the 16 valve is looking more economical.

We'll see . . . . ^_^

-Stig

The 20 vavle is nice. If you do decide to use the 20 valve I've heard the engines make alot of power on vvt and could do wonders on a 4A-GEC block. The 4A-GE 20 valve made more power than the KA24de with a fraction of the displacement and high revs like a son of a *****, but its compression ratio was 10:5.1, unlike a KA's 9.5:1. Those corolla engine need to run on a much higher octane. Slight problem is that the bottom end of teh 4A-GEC isn't as rev happy as the bottom end of the 4A-GE bottom end.
If Iwere you I would just try to find a way to take a transverse 4A-GE and moubnt a new manifold for FR platform Better yet look for a very rare 4A-GEZ which came with a roots super charger.
Old Dec 1, 2007 | 10:27 AM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by motegineon
oh mine is just a stock gts coupe lol..i just got my s13 put back together...

HAH! Those cars are awesome! My friend, Joseph, had a coupe, same color as mine, he had a few mods and built it up pretty nice. It was the same color as my hatch, but his had lots-o-carbon fiber and plenty more go.

I just like looking at em . . . lol . . .if you wanna email me a few pictures, just let me know, I'll PM you my email address, I'd love to see it ^_^

Originally Posted by BigVinnie
The 20 vavle is nice. If you do decide to use the 20 valve I've heard the engines make alot of power on vvt and could do wonders on a 4A-GEC block. The 4A-GE 20 valve made more power than the KA24de with a fraction of the displacement and high revs like a son of a *****, but its compression ratio was 10:5.1, unlike a KA's 9.5:1. Those corolla engine need to run on a much higher octane. Slight problem is that the bottom end of teh 4A-GEC isn't as rev happy as the bottom end of the 4A-GE bottom end.
If Iwere you I would just try to find a way to take a transverse 4A-GE and moubnt a new manifold for FR platform Better yet look for a very rare 4A-GEZ which came with a roots super charger.
Awesome advice Vin, this is why we keep you around . . .LMAO!

Just messing, but yeah, I've been looking at the 20 valve if I run a N/A product and the 16 valve if I run boost. The turbo manifold is only 150 bucks or so plus the price of shipping, so I can see building a turbo setup that holds up well for under 1500.

One thing I like is that the 4A-GE parts are all swappable. You can use the same turbo manifold on all 4AG blocks, the same goes with regular exhaust manifolds. A 20v boost plan started sounding very tempting, especially for the money, however, armed with this new information that you've given me about it's compression ratio, I don't know if that's the best route because I'd then have to drop the compression or reinforce everything that the engine is made from, not to mention running 93 with octane booster, LOL!

We'll see . . .these cars have, quite literally, infinite potential, so we'll just have to make sure that Stig doesn't kill himself during this process and we should get to see what can be done ^_^

-Stig
Old Dec 1, 2007 | 10:35 AM
  #95  
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haha ok here ya go...just plain stock though

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Old Dec 1, 2007 | 10:50 AM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by USMCDrifter
Just messing, but yeah, I've been looking at the 20 valve if I run a N/A product and the 16 valve if I run boost. The turbo manifold is only 150 bucks or so plus the price of shipping, so I can see building a turbo setup that holds up well for under 1500.

One thing I like is that the 4A-GE parts are all swappable. You can use the same turbo manifold on all 4AG blocks, the same goes with regular exhaust manifolds. A 20v boost plan started sounding very tempting, especially for the money, however, armed with this new information that you've given me about it's compression ratio, I don't know if that's the best route because I'd then have to drop the compression or reinforce everything that the engine is made from, not to mention running 93 with octane booster, LOL!



-Stig
Well if you are going to boost the 16 valve is the way to go because you can enlarge and port the 16 valve head to get just as much flow as the 20 valve head accept the reduction in curtain space. Since the 20 valve uses of course 3 valves on INT per cylinder, while the 16 valve only uses 2 per cylinder. But when you boost the whole purpose of curtain space doesn't matter as much since you are applying pressure to the cylinder, and it isn't a N/A setup. N/A engines use curtain space to optimaize swirl to atomize A/F.
I believe a 1mm enlargement on ALL valves (INT and EX) and a good 1 mm port on intake and exhaust you would be good to go for some very good boosted numbers.
Old Dec 1, 2007 | 11:08 AM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by BigVinnie
Well if you are going to boost the 16 valve is the way to go because you can enlarge and port the 16 valve head to get just as much flow as the 20 valve head accept the reduction in curtain space. Since the 20 valve uses of course 3 valves on INT per cylinder, while the 16 valve only uses 2 per cylinder. But when you boost the whole purpose of curtain space doesn't matter as much since you are applying pressure to the cylinder, and it isn't a N/A setup. N/A engines use curtain space to optimaize swirl to atomize A/F.
I believe a 1mm enlargement on ALL valves (INT and EX) and a good 1 mm port on intake and exhaust you would be good to go for some very good boosted numbers.


That sounds like the plan to go with then, Vin! I'll definitely do some more research, right now, it seems as if the most difficult part will be buying an engine and transmission to utilize with that includes the wiring harness and ecu ^_^.


-Stig
Old Dec 1, 2007 | 11:38 AM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by USMCDrifter
That sounds like the plan to go with then, Vin! I'll definitely do some more research, right now, it seems as if the most difficult part will be buying an engine and transmission to utilize with that includes the wiring harness and ecu ^_^.


-Stig
If you were going N/A though here ais a low mileage 20valve for $750.00
http://www.attarco.com/index.php?mai...7a9df4c4cc0e3f
Old Dec 1, 2007 | 02:19 PM
  #99  
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yo stig i say a N/A will be more fun just get the 20v and build the head with cams and ITB's and it will be awsome
Old Dec 2, 2007 | 01:40 PM
  #100  
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Originally Posted by battosaii930
yo stig i say a N/A will be more fun just get the 20v and build the head with cams and ITB's and it will be awsome

That would be sick, I just know that N/A projects cost a butt-load of money and are usually kinda difficult in the initial run. Boost, however, tends to give you the power/torque you're looking for in a very respective amount of build time. The only thing with that is fuel management and that usually can be taken care of, on lower levels anyway, by upgrading your fuel pump and injectors.

^_^

-Stig
Old Dec 2, 2007 | 02:40 PM
  #101  
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NA is amazing
It sounds the best too
Old Dec 3, 2007 | 12:43 AM
  #102  
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^^ HMmmmmmmm
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