Mad-ass's Progress thread [Lots of pictures], 1995 Nissan 240sx Base Auto
On my Black S14...
Ok, few updates with no pictures.
I had pair of URAS tension rods sitting around that were for S14, so I go to un-tighten them, one side goes fine, i clean up the threads with wire brush and lube it up with anti seize, go on to the next one and bam..2 hours of trying to get it to loose, and I finally did. turns out it has completely fused itself and stripped the treads when I un-did the threads. FML, so I am now stuck with my S13 Tein tension rods. I think it'll be OK to use still since I'm looking for max caster anyways. Still need to mess with it.
PBM RUCA's are installed
Circuit Sports Rear Toe Links are installed.
Rear speakers and Alpine deck transfered.
Oh, btw if you have OEM amp on your S14, aftermarket stereo volume control will be pretty dramatic! 1~3 level is cool, anything 5 and up is pretty damn loud! damn talk about quick volume change. and also S13 and S14 uses different radio harness, so I now have S13 deck wiring adapter to sell off to someone for cheap.
I got my gauge setup completed for the S14 interior also. I don't like that angled plastic one that doesn't fit well and brakes all the time, so I went with what I had been using on my purple S14. it's from Pilot Automotive, I first bought it from Phase2Motortrend for $20 or so, then I found out they make other design as well. I got the single din 2 gauge with 2 switch holes, which works out perfect for me since I only use Boost Gauge and Water temp, and I got a toggle switch for my fan and my boost gauge has a peak recall button, so it'll actually fill up all it's slots to fit under my stereo deck nicely.
Moved my defrost and hazard buttons outward and cut the center's up so I can fit my Turbo Timer on. Having a turbo timer work on automatic KA is a interesting experience. lol
Tomorrow, I'll try to install my subframe collars to get rid of the annoying subframe clunk and adjust the caster once again and lower the front end a bit more.
I also dropped two of my wheels off at powder coating shop. yeah, just two of them, gona run them in front since I never swap out the front tires anyways. looking to run 225/45/17's on 17x9 all around.
and..after all that is set, time to get an alignment.
some time this week, I want to pull my SR out of the S13 and get rid of that damn thing.
btw, if anyone has S13 rear knuckles and LCA's laying around and want to get S14 rear knuckles and LCA's, let me know! you can have it for free, you just gotta swap it out yourself, it's on the S13. the ball joints are only 4 years old and are still in good shape. so someone jump on this deal!
Ok, few updates with no pictures.
I had pair of URAS tension rods sitting around that were for S14, so I go to un-tighten them, one side goes fine, i clean up the threads with wire brush and lube it up with anti seize, go on to the next one and bam..2 hours of trying to get it to loose, and I finally did. turns out it has completely fused itself and stripped the treads when I un-did the threads. FML, so I am now stuck with my S13 Tein tension rods. I think it'll be OK to use still since I'm looking for max caster anyways. Still need to mess with it.
PBM RUCA's are installed
Circuit Sports Rear Toe Links are installed.
Rear speakers and Alpine deck transfered.
Oh, btw if you have OEM amp on your S14, aftermarket stereo volume control will be pretty dramatic! 1~3 level is cool, anything 5 and up is pretty damn loud! damn talk about quick volume change. and also S13 and S14 uses different radio harness, so I now have S13 deck wiring adapter to sell off to someone for cheap.
I got my gauge setup completed for the S14 interior also. I don't like that angled plastic one that doesn't fit well and brakes all the time, so I went with what I had been using on my purple S14. it's from Pilot Automotive, I first bought it from Phase2Motortrend for $20 or so, then I found out they make other design as well. I got the single din 2 gauge with 2 switch holes, which works out perfect for me since I only use Boost Gauge and Water temp, and I got a toggle switch for my fan and my boost gauge has a peak recall button, so it'll actually fill up all it's slots to fit under my stereo deck nicely.
Moved my defrost and hazard buttons outward and cut the center's up so I can fit my Turbo Timer on. Having a turbo timer work on automatic KA is a interesting experience. lol
Tomorrow, I'll try to install my subframe collars to get rid of the annoying subframe clunk and adjust the caster once again and lower the front end a bit more.
I also dropped two of my wheels off at powder coating shop. yeah, just two of them, gona run them in front since I never swap out the front tires anyways. looking to run 225/45/17's on 17x9 all around.
and..after all that is set, time to get an alignment.
some time this week, I want to pull my SR out of the S13 and get rid of that damn thing.
btw, if anyone has S13 rear knuckles and LCA's laying around and want to get S14 rear knuckles and LCA's, let me know! you can have it for free, you just gotta swap it out yourself, it's on the S13. the ball joints are only 4 years old and are still in good shape. so someone jump on this deal!

Subframe nut:1, 3 craftsman ratchet:0


Ok, so people with coilovers and drive their car's on streets, look into this option as it'll prolong the life of your coilovers.
clean off the exposed shock's threads from any road dust/nasty, and spray the threads with silicon spray or lithiume lube on the threads, and cover it up with bicycle tube to further prevent any road dirt/nasty from getting into them. Long lasting and non-rusted/seized coilover threads and collars, another happy coilover owner.
and as for the rubber on the bottom of the shock body, that's for people with PBM and Stance coilovers. the toe rod's nut/bolt will cut into the bottom shock body as they are big. that is to prevent further dmg made from the toe rod nut/bolt.

and the new gauge setup!
Last edited by mad-ass; Sep 30, 2010 at 12:13 PM.

Another top tip from yours truly today. If you own a S14 or two, you'll notice that your gas fill hole tube sags and sometimes it even stops the pump from filling up because it sags so low. So this is the fix. there is a hole below the filler cap already for "draining" purposes if you don't know how to properly take the filler off your car, drill that out to bigger hole and fit a 1" long 10mm bolt through it.

next step it to make a bracket, the bottom bolt hole is already there, it's the wider thread kind with plastic insert. Use the nissan 10mm bolt for that as well, and bend the bracket in such angle and put a lock washer and 10mm nut and tighten the bolt/nuts down. result? sturdy filler hole that doesn't sag. Top Tip of the day. Yours truly.
Meh, I came out pretty good for a fender bender, it's just that I had to put in the time to pull everything off the S13...
eh..oh wells, I wanted to upgrade to S14 in near future anyways, so the time was right.
So, I just checked my exhaust clerance on the black S14 with STOCK exhaust..it's about 2 inches off the ground. HELLA SWEET!
eh..oh wells, I wanted to upgrade to S14 in near future anyways, so the time was right.
So, I just checked my exhaust clerance on the black S14 with STOCK exhaust..it's about 2 inches off the ground. HELLA SWEET!









but damn the second pic makes it wayyy better lmao