DRIFZ Rims

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Old Apr 3, 2006 | 12:03 AM
  #16  
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Quick! jump off the bandwagon before it's too late.

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Old Apr 3, 2006 | 10:00 AM
  #17  
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Thanks for the reply. I was referring to 240SX, I had a type'o there. I'm not looking for a reall low drop, 1/4 to 1/2/. Does eibach offer springs that would meet these needs or should I consider the TEIN sport?
Old Apr 5, 2006 | 01:44 AM
  #18  
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thats a hard choice there, good racing would probably be tein, but if its quality, i'd go with eibach

but to be honest with you, do like the top tuners, find the most expensive parts you can, even if you don't know what the crap they do, and put them on your car, maybe thats how you get popular.
Old Apr 5, 2006 | 11:07 PM
  #19  
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^^bad idea
Old Apr 5, 2006 | 11:26 PM
  #20  
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Expensive parts don't mean good parts.
Old Apr 6, 2006 | 04:39 PM
  #21  
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I agree.
Old Jun 3, 2007 | 03:08 AM
  #22  
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I'm fix'n to lower 2.8 front 2.6 rear plus camber kit & tie bars. I way thinking smaller rims (i.e 15) would giver me a better turning ratios when I'm hit'k turns.
Old Jun 4, 2007 | 09:45 AM
  #23  
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ok lets start off with your original question before you change the topic of this thread.. what the hell are drifz rims? if you can find the specs on the rims.. make sure the offset is close to being zero.. if not.. then you may have a problem.. you said you used to drive a honda so this has to be new to you considering alot of honda guys drive on high offset rims.. if you really need a diagram for rims..

http://www.enkei.co.jp/en/t_know.html

here you go from enkei themselves.. i would suggest you read it..

aside from the rims you were talking about and how you went off to change the topic of the thread instead of searching.. why would you just want lowering springs? given that this is a community where everyone does not have the money, it would be wise for you to invest in rather coilovers than simply lowering springs.. i mean, they work and you probably wont rub as much with aftermarket ones, but considering it sounds like you're not going to drop it as much with this 1/4 or 1/2 talk, you might as well cut the thing.. you wont even rub that bad if at all even with blown shocks, unless you're reckless like yuta
Old Jun 4, 2007 | 10:09 AM
  #24  
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listen to heartbreaker.
Old Jun 4, 2007 | 10:16 AM
  #25  
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Gabe, I think he resolved that question already because this thread is back from the dead, but I guess its okay because the original poster is the one who brought it back. 240sxguy, you should have just started a new thread.
Anyways, what do you mean turning ratios? The diameter of the wheel has nothing to do with steering.
Old Jun 4, 2007 | 02:38 PM
  #26  
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sportmax 002's, cut springs, 1/2 coil in the front, 3/4 in the back
Old Jun 6, 2007 | 01:28 PM
  #27  
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my bro has some drifz, i advised him not to get them, but he no listen. his offset is +40 17by9. why is offset so important?
Old Jun 6, 2007 | 09:40 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by agustin lopez
why is offset so important?
Oh god. Put on your flame retardant suit, here come the flames.

Offset determines how sunk in, flush, or sticking out the wheels are. A high positive offset means the wheels will be very sunk into the wheel well. They fit Hondas.
Old Jun 7, 2007 | 02:23 AM
  #29  
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offset is not important per say.





































offset is everything
Old Jun 7, 2007 | 02:29 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by agustin lopez
why is offset so important?
This is important if you are thinking of purchasing aftermarket alloy wheels. The offset is the distance in mm between the centre line of the wheel rim, and the line through the fixing (hub) face. You can have positive (+), negative (-) or neither (0). The first important reason offset is so important is that it is ultimately responsible for the position of the wheel under the wheel arch. Get it wrong and your wheels can scrub against the bodywork, suspension or at worst not turn at all! Secondly it determines how the suspension and self-centering steering behave. The most obvious problem that will occur if you get it wrong is that the steering will either become so heavy that you can't turn the steering wheel, or so light that you need to spend all your time keeping it in a straight line.
this is from race and road


Zero offset: The hub mounting surface is even with the centerline of the wheel.
Positive offset: The hub mounting surface is toward the front or wheel side of the wheel. Positive offset wheels are generally found on front-wheel drive cars.
Negative offset: The hub mounting surface is toward the back or brake side of the wheel's centerline. "Deep dish" wheels are typically negative offset. Offset can be calculated by positioning the wheel on a flat surface and measuring its overall width and backspace as shown below. Divide the overall width by two, then subtract this result from the backspace value.
this is from yokohama's site


1. To compensate for a wider wheel: A wider wheel with the exact same scrub radius as the stock wheel will be positioned closer to the suspension components. If the wheel is too much wider, it will not fit. To compensate, you would choose a smaller offset to move the wheel away from the suspension.
2. To create a wider stance: By setting the wheels outward, the stance of the car becomes wider and stability is increased. In some applications, the benefits of this stability are greater than the drawbacks of the scrub radius change and the driver may make this compromise.
3. Looks: A smaller offset moves the wheels outward, so they have a tendency to fill out the wheel well better. Cars set up for show, more than performance will often choose a lower offset wheel, however, if the offset is too small the sidewall will rub the inside of the fender.
this is from miata.net

this is why offset is important.. bottem line, its status and thats all you really need to know.. 0 = good.. + = generally not good.. at least for the 240's



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