Have a lead on the above car. Wondering what the car would go for normally. Assume average condition. please state value for both manual and auto. Thanks!

 

www.kelleybluebook.com

 

Kelley Blue Book works WONDERS!

 

3-4K

 

Given the rarity of the car and demand by the import market, i would asume the vehicle generally sells above kelly blue boo, hence the question..

I hope to figure out how much above kelly blue book cars like above can be sold for. For example, would it worthwhile to purchase at KBB and be realistic to sell $500+ above it.

 

You may wish to think it would sell above the KBB value.. but don't get your hopes up.

 

bummer...

 

In all actuality, it truely depends on who's looking at buying it, and how determined you are to sell it at the asking price.

Case in point, I bought mine for just below blue book. Why? Because the guy I was buying it from needed to score some cash to buy a friend's car. I was the only one that would give him the whole sum upfront (even though others were willing to pay more, but in payments). You can get kbb +500 easily in the following situations:

- bandwagon-jumping fanboys
- non-bandwagon-jumpers still desparate for a clean 240
- people who would be willing to pay more for a 5 speed (if it is one), in lieu of doing a tranny swap
- someone not experienced in price haggling/negotiating

If you're looking at a casual shopper (someone who doesn't necessarily have to have that car), someone who doesn't give into the bandwagon hype (and therefor doesn't believe that the demand alters the book pricing), or chronic low-ballers, you won't get what your looking for in the sale of the car. Or, you could just wait until FnF3 comes out and selling for blue book x2!

 

Thanks for the great response. I checked out the car. It is clean on the outside (good fresh paint) and manual. The inside is speakerless, the idle is loopey, there is an exhaust leak, needs a/c, and the CE light is on, the transmission shifts ok, but I can hear the rear when it shifts (dont know if it is typical). The car will last as is but not for a long time. It seems perfect for a swap. Given the internal problems, I would be happy to sell at $2500+. Is that reasonable?

 

Here's my take on it (and I am, by no stretch of the imagination an expert appraiser). With the current problems, I have a hard time seeing it go for above $2150. Of course, that's without knowing where the exhaust leak is (manifold or piping), what's wrong with the A/C (if it is even present), or what code is tripping the CEL. Of course, it can go down from there. Either way, to get more dough out of that thing, you would want to address some of the issues. If you were to sell it as a running car "just waiting for a swap", then the A/C thing might not matter too much, since certain swaps (mostly RB) make having A/C a pain in the butt, and usually goes without being hooked up anyway (think weight savings!). Depending on where the exhaust leak is, a quick (and cheap) trip to a muffler shop can knock that out (unless you got them welding skills). The CEL could lend some insight to the idle situation. I would check the code(s) on it, and see if it's an easy and cheap fix. If you run a basic search for KA24DE engine codes, you'll likely find a link with how to read them via the blinking LED method. Oh, and explain what you mean by "I can hear the rear when it shifts". Is there a clunking noice, or grinding, or whining?

Anyway, hope that's helpful.

 

I believe the exhaust leak is in the manifold area. Of course id try to address any problem that could be done cheaply and may not be wasted in a swap situation - exh leak, pwr win. motor, new vent and console, side view mirror, etc. I'll likely fix the leak and diagnose the loopey idle and CE light.

The rear - clunking noise; even when i simply let out the clutch in gears when the car is not moving.

What does simply a manual transmission frame with good paint like this car has go for? $1000? $1500? $2000? Perhaps i can start from that as a baseline. THANKS AGAIN

 

Hmm, if the clunking noise only occured when moving, I would definitely suspect the differential. If you're hearing the noise when releasing the clutch/shifting, I could have something to do with the clutch (dampener, throw out bearing, etc). Dunno, not the most mechanically inclined (and sadly, it shows ). If you're looking to address all of those problems, you can definitely get more than $2500 for it (being a complete car).

For a rolling chassis in good condition (paint, lack of rust, streetable suspension/brakes, good interior) I'd say up to $1500, if for no other reason than more than that could be made from the parts (driveshaft/diff, axels, brakes, suspension, interior, glass, hood, fenders, doors, etc).

Anyway, none of this is to be taken as gospel truth. Just a guideline, of sorts from my twisted little brain, based on what I've seen so far. I'm sure actual values (whether higher or lower) will vary.

 

the clunking noise occurs while moving and not moving as long as im disengaging the clutch once it is in a gear.

 

If it's happening when disengaging the clutch, I would have to think it has something to do with the spring (if it's a sprung clutch), maybe. Does the transmission grind at all when shifting? If so, it's possible that the problem lies in the clutch hydraulic system. By the way, I know jack **** about mechanicals, so I'm just taking stabs in the dark here.

 

i tried semi fast shifting 2nd and 3rd - seems to work ok - maybe a lil notchy. The clunking comes from the rear.

Stabs are appreciated. thanks again