RB20det vs KA24et vs sr20det
 

OK, after reading most of the ka24et posts... I am confused... TOTALLY CONFUSED... if I am correct on one post everyones like, turbo the ka... the next is go for the rb20.... and then after that, another one says that sr20 has more aftermarket... so I guess I need to assess the situation. Though I have posted about this b4, my situation has changed... Here it goes

I just bought another 240 in a HELL OF A LOT better condition... only 96k on the engine with a leaking intake manifold and an auto tranny that is busted... I am def. not staying auto...

so the engine runs awesome it is a 90 and I hear that if it is in good condition turbo it (i'd prob replace the intake manifold anyway) keep in mind that I also need a new tranny and evertyhing also... but what are the stats on this at what psi??? is it better than sr20's and rb20's (hp, and torque)... and what about aftermarket, I would like a long time goal of atleast 300hp and torque to match...

an rb20 is a customized operation to put into a 240... so the engine will rattle around cause it is not a bolt up and the aftermarket... I will admit I want some aftermarket

finally, the hyped sr20... it has aftermarket, costs more, and bolts up pretty easily... but money, money, money


The guy that will install my engine (if I so happen to get one) is also building a 240... his is crappier and the engine prob has 250k+... he would take my engine and use it towards credit to his shop (for a paint job and the engine swap) but some people say the ka24et is better than a sr20det, and what about gettin to 300hp??? which to do??? I am not saying I am gonna single out the rb20 but I am leaning if not a ka-t then a sr20... and if I do "sell" my engine to the guy, how much is it worth???



Thanks,
Sly

All right I will try and answer most of your questions

the KA24E-T is not as strong as the RB or SR, in how much the engine can take the RB and SR blow the KA out of the water. You can get...230-250RWHP on 8-10psi and thats it on the stock head and block, with thicker HG. AFter that...you need to do some head modifications and pistons and rods and etc. That will cost quite a lot after the long run

The SR, might be a little more expensive but fits like a glove and lots of aftermarket. Probably one of the best buys out there for a 240(In some people eyes)

The RB20, one of the best engines for a 240 IMO. Takes a hell of a beating(400hp-450hp stock). The modifications arent anything big, and it ratlling has not been a problem for the people I know that has don a RB swap.

The after market for the KA24E is not that good at all, probably worst then the RB20 for some real nice parts. Time to really think of what route you want to go! Get a list going, of pros and cons of each engine and that might help ya out

That's not completely accurate. There are plenty of people pushing 300+ on stock KA's without any problems. In order to push more than that reliably, you don't need a thicker head gasket(I don't even know of anyone that makes a thicker one), you don't need head modifications, and you don't need rods. All you really need are stronger pistons. The stock head is fine, because you won't be revving to 8000 rpm or some silly nonsense, and the stock rods are fine as long as they're in good shape. A good rebuild with aftermarket pistons will be just fine for over 300 hp.

Even though this is a SOHC? Thats regarding the head that is...since the block is the same. I've heard of people blowing their HG because they were boosting to much(Over 8 usually). They usually go with a copper or metal HG. Thanks for correcting me though:bigok:

But the DOHC is better suited for handling the boost than the SOHC right?

So how much would an engine close to 100k miles on it with a leaking intake manifold be worth? I am prob gonna still go with the sr20 like I was b4 now... but would it be worth it doing the install myself if I haven't had any prior experience?:confused:

No you want to get the engine installed at a shop that knows what they are doing. An engine swap, especially one thats an upgrade would require turning be done to make sure it runs the way its supposed to. No diagnostic codes to help you with this.

hmmm
 

the block arent the sma eofr the e and the de motors. Very different actually. The e pistons will drop into a de and make over 11.5 to 1 comp ratio. the pistons are flat top in the e. The head on the e is fine, but the de is better. For the single overhead cam car--you may want to consider the de swpa rather than the rb or sr. Teh sr will need lots of the de parts anyway--like throttle cable-- you forget about a/c working, power steering lines, etc etc.
rb is the same thing. Rbs are greta, but will sit high and too forward unless you use a custom mount kit by someone like unstable hybrids and or mckinney motorsports. if you are new to this--i wouldnt head the rb route. Sr is a great motor--but talking abotu costs here--its not the bets route.

sr swap--2500-plus wiring--250
downpip-200, install componants -300
clutch-320
fly-320
intake- 100
exhaust- 500
intercooler- 800
get where im going--you arelookingat 4500-500 to get this car to around 260 tot he wheels--this is the max on stock injectors safely.
anyting over-you amy as well go bigger turbo and bigger injectors and maf (z32)
take 4500-500 and ill build a ka24de motor to put down over 400-450 to the wheels. Garanteed.
No one interested in big power keeps the ka stock anyway--so a rebuild is in the books from the geinning. but dude is right--pistons are all that are required sinc ethe ka doesnt rev very hig. I rev to 7k. nothing more---go with the de swap if you want tot swap anything--or just build the e motor--but dont swap yet----its too much money for what it sounds like you want.

-Josh

I am equally confused Slygrin. As you said, every two seconds the sentiment for either engine seems to change. The one thing that I'm sure about is that having a 240 rocks!!!!

Anyways, on to my question.

Projex240, when you say rebuild the KA what exactly would you do to be putting down 350 to the wheels safely for any length of time?

AT that power level, the stock ords will support you on pump gas or race gas. The stock rods are forged units straight from the factory. Though not as beefy as aftermarket rods, tehy will stand up to alot of power with no problems. This is of course, your car is tuned properly (jwt or standalone, etc...).

The pistons are actually the weak link of the motor. The ringlands are too thin and made of cast instead of a forged material. WHen you rebuild the motor, put a set of 91 cams in to get better upper rpms power. The stock s14 cams are too restrictive and will cause power to fall off after 5500 rpms. Get good pistons from any company you choose, and for anything over 330-ish to the wheels--run at least 72lb injectors. Youd be surpised at how 350 feels at the wheels in this car. Youll be able to get that power and run it on the street with pump gas---at any given time. Like you said.

fuel, ecu tuning, and forged internals are the way to go---but all you really need are pistons and good tuning.

-Josh

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Don't forget that you will need supporting mods to make that 350 on any engine. Fuel pump,injectors,ENS or GWT err JWT. My RB dosen't rattle around, Inline 6's are very well balanced motors. MY SOHC made WAY!!!!!! more nosie than my RB. RB feels smoother than the SR and KA's.