10k, thats all i got
05-10-2003, 04:32 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Cali
Posts: 10
10k, thats all i got
OK, im kinda new to all this, but i am getting a 89-90 240 over the summer. Now all i got is 10 grand. I need to know wut would be better to get a rb25 or a sr20. and i want not to race professionally or anything, but to dominate on the streets. Also how fast could i run the 1/4 with each engine. And wut other upgrades would be profitable to get with the money i got left. Any help at would be greaty apprieciated. Thanks.
05-10-2003, 04:51 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: StL to Miami
Posts: 174
you are in the EXACT same situation as me. Im going RB. there is a guy on here, who with an RB, LSD, and iridium spark plugs ran an 11.9. convincing enough for me 
get your car and learn how to drive it before you upgrade though.
get your car and learn how to drive it before you upgrade though.
05-11-2003, 07:00 AM
#5
Contributing Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: NYC
Posts: 2,817
You are lucky. Cali cars are usually in great condition.
Watch out for the usuall auto gremlins. Go over your wiring. I know the reverse lights are a problem with the FBs.
Get yourself a new set of TC rod bushings. If you feel the car pulls to either side it is most likely them. They are liquid filled and fail after a while.
You are going to need brakes. Get big ones. Don't be cheap.
Don't be cheap with anything. I know you have a budget but if you do it cheap you will do it twice.
Watch out for the usuall auto gremlins. Go over your wiring. I know the reverse lights are a problem with the FBs.
Get yourself a new set of TC rod bushings. If you feel the car pulls to either side it is most likely them. They are liquid filled and fail after a while.
You are going to need brakes. Get big ones. Don't be cheap.
Don't be cheap with anything. I know you have a budget but if you do it cheap you will do it twice.
05-11-2003, 10:37 AM
#7
Contributing Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: NYC
Posts: 2,817
I think I will be ready for my swap in a year. Lets say next summer.
I want:
Suspension 65% done
Safety 25% done
Engine 0% done
Looks 10% done
I think I am in the hole for 12k so far. It sneaks up on you quick and if you count everything.
I don't like it when people post "some odds and ends". $50 odds and ends add up quick.
I want:
Suspension 65% done
Safety 25% done
Engine 0% done
Looks 10% done
I think I am in the hole for 12k so far. It sneaks up on you quick and if you count everything.
I don't like it when people post "some odds and ends". $50 odds and ends add up quick.
05-11-2003, 11:00 AM
#8
Contributing Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: buffalo,n.y.
Posts: 2,209
i have a new baby comming...my swap and accessories all want bye bye......need a savings account now. cant live from week to week no more.
but i have a litle secret that will keep me ahead of the game...and it aint No2
but i have a litle secret that will keep me ahead of the game...and it aint No2
05-11-2003, 12:31 PM
#9
Contributing Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Pasadena,ca
Posts: 10,109
Originally posted by rudeboy
i have a new baby comming...my swap and accessories all want bye bye......need a savings account now. cant live from week to week no more.
but i have a litle secret that will keep me ahead of the game...and it aint No2
i have a new baby comming...my swap and accessories all want bye bye......need a savings account now. cant live from week to week no more.
but i have a litle secret that will keep me ahead of the game...and it aint No2
05-13-2003, 11:08 PM
#11
Originally posted by rudeboy
i have a new baby comming...my swap and accessories all want bye bye......need a savings account now. cant live from week to week no more.
but i have a litle secret that will keep me ahead of the game...and it aint No2
i have a new baby comming...my swap and accessories all want bye bye......need a savings account now. cant live from week to week no more.
but i have a litle secret that will keep me ahead of the game...and it aint No2
KA24T????? {o.0}
or is there something else that Im overlooking???
OH, and congrats to Rudeboy and Stanbo! When is the expectancy dates?
Last edited by NiSmO Knight; 05-13-2003 at 11:13 PM.
05-13-2003, 11:42 PM
#12
Registered User
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Apple Valley, CA
Posts: 28
BDAWG-
What area of racing are you looking for?
Drag-
RB25DET, some large turbo, get a VLSD, injectors, standalone, metal headgasket, upgrade the valvetrain, get some wide rims and DR's (NT555R's or slicks), huge frontmount, and parts to support the above.
Grip-
VLSD (biggie), sway bars, shocks, coilovers (depends on your level), sway bars, Z32 brakes, and in this case, I prefer the SR20, Camber kit, nice set of rims with appropriate grippy tires, replace bushings
Drift-
I prefer the SR20 again in this case, get some rims (good up front, whatever in back, same with tires, a camber kit for up front, VLSD (AGAIN, BIGGY), strut bars (cusco triangles maybe), replace bushings, probably coilovers, Z32 brakes, shocks...
There are many more parts of course, but those will get you started.
My theory behind the whole RB vs SR argument is this:
For drag racing, you need displacement, the bigger, the better. Get an inline 6 (yes i know cylinders have little to do with displacement) with a very large turbo. Find out what the Supra boys use and go one step smaller, I would say.
For any kind of curvy/windy/turny racing, the 4 cylinder is actually going to help you because of it's size properties. Some people will tell you that the RB and the SR weigh almost the same, so it won't affect the F:R weight balance. That is 100% true; based on F:R. However, if you look at how much weight is distributed in front of, and in back of the front crossmember, you will see what I mean. If you look at an SR/CA in a 240SX engine bay and then an RB in a 240SX engine bay, you will see that obviously the RB sits very far forward. There is maybe a 4-6" gap between the front of the cylinder head and the radiator. Forget fan shrouding. An RB puts, from my best guess 30-40% of it's weight in front of the crossmember. Now look at an SR/CA. They are nestled very tightly to the firewall and have a lot of room between the front of the cylinder head and the radiator. From my estimates, I would say roughly 15-20% of the engine weight is in front of the crossmember. Having more weight behind the crossmember is better when aiming for a 50/50 weight ratio.
If anyone wants to challenge my theories, feel free, they aren't fact, just the way I look at things.
What area of racing are you looking for?
Drag-
RB25DET, some large turbo, get a VLSD, injectors, standalone, metal headgasket, upgrade the valvetrain, get some wide rims and DR's (NT555R's or slicks), huge frontmount, and parts to support the above.
Grip-
VLSD (biggie), sway bars, shocks, coilovers (depends on your level), sway bars, Z32 brakes, and in this case, I prefer the SR20, Camber kit, nice set of rims with appropriate grippy tires, replace bushings
Drift-
I prefer the SR20 again in this case, get some rims (good up front, whatever in back, same with tires, a camber kit for up front, VLSD (AGAIN, BIGGY), strut bars (cusco triangles maybe), replace bushings, probably coilovers, Z32 brakes, shocks...
There are many more parts of course, but those will get you started.
My theory behind the whole RB vs SR argument is this:
For drag racing, you need displacement, the bigger, the better. Get an inline 6 (yes i know cylinders have little to do with displacement) with a very large turbo. Find out what the Supra boys use and go one step smaller, I would say.
For any kind of curvy/windy/turny racing, the 4 cylinder is actually going to help you because of it's size properties. Some people will tell you that the RB and the SR weigh almost the same, so it won't affect the F:R weight balance. That is 100% true; based on F:R. However, if you look at how much weight is distributed in front of, and in back of the front crossmember, you will see what I mean. If you look at an SR/CA in a 240SX engine bay and then an RB in a 240SX engine bay, you will see that obviously the RB sits very far forward. There is maybe a 4-6" gap between the front of the cylinder head and the radiator. Forget fan shrouding. An RB puts, from my best guess 30-40% of it's weight in front of the crossmember. Now look at an SR/CA. They are nestled very tightly to the firewall and have a lot of room between the front of the cylinder head and the radiator. From my estimates, I would say roughly 15-20% of the engine weight is in front of the crossmember. Having more weight behind the crossmember is better when aiming for a 50/50 weight ratio.
If anyone wants to challenge my theories, feel free, they aren't fact, just the way I look at things.
05-14-2003, 12:47 AM
#13
Originally posted by BuudWeizErr
BDAWG-
My theory behind the whole RB vs SR argument is this:
For drag racing, you need displacement, the bigger, the better. Get an inline 6 (yes i know cylinders have little to do with displacement) with a very large turbo. Find out what the Supra boys use and go one step smaller, I would say.
For any kind of curvy/windy/turny racing, the 4 cylinder is actually going to help you because of it's size properties. Some people will tell you that the RB and the SR weigh almost the same, so it won't affect the F:R weight balance. That is 100% true; based on F:R. However, if you look at how much weight is distributed in front of, and in back of the front crossmember, you will see what I mean. If you look at an SR/CA in a 240SX engine bay and then an RB in a 240SX engine bay, you will see that obviously the RB sits very far forward. There is maybe a 4-6" gap between the front of the cylinder head and the radiator. Forget fan shrouding. An RB puts, from my best guess 30-40% of it's weight in front of the crossmember. Now look at an SR/CA. They are nestled very tightly to the firewall and have a lot of room between the front of the cylinder head and the radiator. From my estimates, I would say roughly 15-20% of the engine weight is in front of the crossmember. Having more weight behind the crossmember is better when aiming for a 50/50 weight ratio.
If anyone wants to challenge my theories, feel free, they aren't fact, just the way I look at things.
BDAWG-
My theory behind the whole RB vs SR argument is this:
For drag racing, you need displacement, the bigger, the better. Get an inline 6 (yes i know cylinders have little to do with displacement) with a very large turbo. Find out what the Supra boys use and go one step smaller, I would say.
For any kind of curvy/windy/turny racing, the 4 cylinder is actually going to help you because of it's size properties. Some people will tell you that the RB and the SR weigh almost the same, so it won't affect the F:R weight balance. That is 100% true; based on F:R. However, if you look at how much weight is distributed in front of, and in back of the front crossmember, you will see what I mean. If you look at an SR/CA in a 240SX engine bay and then an RB in a 240SX engine bay, you will see that obviously the RB sits very far forward. There is maybe a 4-6" gap between the front of the cylinder head and the radiator. Forget fan shrouding. An RB puts, from my best guess 30-40% of it's weight in front of the crossmember. Now look at an SR/CA. They are nestled very tightly to the firewall and have a lot of room between the front of the cylinder head and the radiator. From my estimates, I would say roughly 15-20% of the engine weight is in front of the crossmember. Having more weight behind the crossmember is better when aiming for a 50/50 weight ratio.
If anyone wants to challenge my theories, feel free, they aren't fact, just the way I look at things.
05-14-2003, 03:09 PM
#14
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: StL to Miami
Posts: 174
ummmm, hate to break it to you, but it doesnt matter where on the chassis the weight falls, all that matters is where on the wheels.
it matters a little for weight transfer and things like that, but relocate your battery to the trunk, get a cf hood, and those problems are fixed. the power diffrence is just so big that it definately offsets the cost of a battery relocation kit.
as far as I am concerned, there is no reason to go SR over RB if you have a budget of 8500 or more.
it matters a little for weight transfer and things like that, but relocate your battery to the trunk, get a cf hood, and those problems are fixed. the power diffrence is just so big that it definately offsets the cost of a battery relocation kit.
as far as I am concerned, there is no reason to go SR over RB if you have a budget of 8500 or more.
