I've seen some posts about grumpy RB cold start up, and my engine does it too. I'm working on a fix but nothing yet. Anyone who has a similar problem or has fixed this please post here and let us know.

Thank you from RB owners everywhere

 

I'm getting somewhere-I measured the resistance between the two tan wires in the RB20 1/2 cut in stock and my car, from the 02 sensor plug-with sensor unplugged, to the ECU. I get a resistance in the clip, the swap in my car is no connection. There are 3 plugs on the RB harness right by the ECU that go to the car-well 1/2 car, when I unplug one of them the connection is broken. SO this means that we NEED something in the dash for this swap to run right. Time to go find it.

 

ahHA!, good thing you have those clips around to find this stuff out. Can you please send me some pics? so I know which plug you are talking about. once you find what needs to be connected in that plug let me know. I am having the same prob, and the only thing I have heard is that Jon said to switch the sensor.

 

the thing that bugs me most is that the first few times I tried starting it it jumped to life no prob at all. and now it starts giving me sh*t. Mine isnt nearly as bad as S14_RB25DETs, it only takes me 3-4 tries and it idles rough for about 5 seconds and then its fine. I guess that could have something to do with limp mode from being disconnected from power for a long time, but who knows.

 

mine is the same way, I took it for a drive and stopped three times-no problem at all. But when it's cold it doesn't start without a shot of starter fluid. I sure like the sound of the 6 cyl!

 

Temp sensor it sounds like.....so much it isnt even funny.....

 

I am on my way back to the shop right now, I hope I still have that KA temp sensor around. I will let you guys know if I got it straightened out.

 

tried the sensor and it made no difference. I got 4.8V and around 2V I got hte same for both sensors. The O2 is a pain to test, and I didnt remember what the voltages should be, and what wire was what. can someonw lay it down for real simple?
like: this wire should *blank* when the car is in the on, and *blank* when the car is started, and if it doesnt your wires are screwed up.
thats what I need so I can remember it.
thanks guys

 

Send me an email, I will send you the portion of the FSM for the GT-R pertaining to the O2 sensor. RB26DETT and RB20DET have essentially the same system.

According to the trouble shooting guide in the maunal....

"The systems relating to water temperature must be checked because this problem only occers when the engine is cold"

"Fuel injection enrichment from engine temperature sensor signal is not functioning when temperature is low"
"Idling speed control is not functioning normally"
"Start-time enrichment is not functioning"
"Cranking speed is too low"

I say make sure you have the start signal hookd up also.....

 

I am really confused with all of this. on one hand I think it is most likely the temp sensor, or some related connection because that would be what is to let the computer know the car is cold, but the o2 not heating up and reading correct could also be it. But with both of them I dont really get it cause that would mean everyone with an RB clip has gotten a damaged o2 or coolant temp system, how could that be?????
I think it is a connection on one of the harnesses that goes into the car that is not connected because of different plugs.
I am usually good at this kinda stuff so lets see how it turns out, its kinda like a game.
Just thought I would explain what I was thinking and how I was trying to run down the problem, if I am outta line on any of that someone let me know, and why I am off.

 

I just talked to JGY customs and they told me about an orange wire on the KA chassis harness that goes to the ECU it tells the computer something even when the starter is engaged and the voltage drops below what the computer is used to, he also told me to check an air regulator that might have coolant going through it. I think I remember this being near the fuel rail, but I am not sure. he thinks the plug on this air reg is black. I hope this helps in finding the cure.

 

The orange wire in the car is in the white connector that is clipped to the dash reinforcement.

The air regulator is UNDER the intake manifold. It also is controlled by temperature....forgot about that part.

 

any ideas on testing the air reg?

 

bump

 

here is what the manual says...

Place ignition switch in OFF position
disconnect fuel pump relay
place ignition switch in ON position
Use tester to measure the voltage between terminal 2, 3 and earth

If no good, repair wiring

If good Place ignition switch in Off position
Remove air regulator harness connectors
Check for continuity between air regulator harness connector terminal 2 and earth

If no good repair harness or connector
Ig gooe Place ignition switch to OFF position
Disconnect ECCS C/U harness connector
Check for continuity between ECC C/U terminal 18 and fuel pump relay terminal 1

If no good, repair harness
If good Measure voltage between ECCS C/U terminal 18 and earth it should be 1V within 5 seconds after ignition switch is polaced to ON position & +12V 5 seconds after ignition switch is placed to ON position

If no good repair & inspect ECCS C/U power supply & ground circuit
If Good inspect Air Regulator
If no good, replace regulator
If good inspect ECCS C/U terminal for any damage and ECCS C/U connector connections.