This is what I got out of reading through the dozens of threads with scattered info on swapping a motor. Also a bit from the FSM. I'm swapping a 97 s14 KA24DE into my 91 s13 because I recently blew my motor. This is how I will go about doing it, I kinda threw it together the best way I could. Please correct me if I am wrong. I'm not a pro by any means when it comes to working on cars, so bear with me, I'm doing the engine swap by myself.


Engine Check List:

1. Remove Hood

2. Drain Coolant

3. Drain Oil

4. Drain Clutch Fluid (do I need to? If so, where?)

5. Drain Tranny Fluid (again, do I need to do this too? I know where to drain it if so.)

6. Release Fuel Pressure (errr where do I do that?)

7. Disconnect Hoses / Wires / Harnesses (sounds easy enough I guess, more details where to d/c them would be nice, so I don't f anything up)

8. Remove Exhaust Tubes

9. Remove Driveshaft

10. Take Radiator and shroud out

11. Remove Power Steering oil pump (Where is this? I didn't know it was attached to the motor.)

12. Attach Engine Lift

13. Remove Bolts

14. Remove Motor with transmission attached (Since I will need to swap this manual tranny onto the new one.)

NEED TO SWAP WITH NEW MOTOR (since it's a 97 going into a 91)

Intake Manifold
Rotor (under the distributor cap right?)
Sensor under neath Intake Manifold (which sensor?)
Distributor cap

That's it right?

 

Once you get started it will be pretty easy, would definitely be easier if you get a friend to help you, especially for the actual pull.

 

is that it for the swap?

can i use the s13 harness and ecu?

 

Dude, this thread is like 6 months old. If your doing the same thing I did, you can use the s13 harness and ecu as long as your cars tranny wasn't different from the motor your putting in (different sensors). If that's the case then let me know and I'll tell you what needs to be done.

 

97 is obd2. 91 is obd1. ecu and the harness doesn't need to be changed. everything else seem to check ok.

 

You would need to swap out your knock sensor, coolant temp sensors, o2 sensor, and tps if you were switching from obd I to II, or back to obd I. They have to match with the ecu.

 

staying obd1 would be the easier route

 

you said:

"You would need to swap out your knock sensor, coolant temp sensors, o2 sensor, and tps if you were switching from obd I to II, or back to obd I. They have to match with the ecu."


i'm doing the exact same swap and i'm getting a 97 engine but i'm using the 91 tranny

what things do i have to do ?? you can email me or IM me on AIM if easier

email: jjhk128@hotmail.com
aim: nyczjung

what are you talking bout? do i have to do that?

 

Is the tranny manual or auto? What about the motor? Since you said 91 tranny, I'm assuming the car and ecu are also 91?

Ok, I just noticed the 91 240 under your name. Anyway, sounds like your doing pretty much same thing I did. Like I said, you need to replace the knock sensor (under top half of intake mani, best changed when motor is out of the car), coolant temperature sensor (red sensor sticking out of the motor next to throttle body), TPS (throttle position sensor, the black box on the side of the throttle body, and you will want to calibrate it correctly when you put it back on), and the o2 sensor (on exhaust) all with the original OBD I so it doesn't conflict with your ecu. If you dont, you will get power loss and most likely throw codes causing your check engine light to come on. It's also wise to get a good tune-up with the new motor. Like new plugs, new rotor, new plug wires, new o2 sensor, new coolant temp sensor, etc... You can just use all the sensors from your old motor if you want as well, but they are aged and could develop problems soon or already have some. I learned alot when I finally put my motor in, from learning myself and from the collective source of all the 240 boards, especially since I've made this post. IM me kamikazi989 if you need any tips or help when you do your swap. I can promise you, you will run into lots-o problems if this is your first time doing something like this.

 

Also, just take your gas cap off the release the fuel pressure. And you don't need to release the clutch fluid pressure. You aren't disconnecting any clutch lines anywhere, so this is of no concern.

 

yeah this is a 5spd tranny

a few questions.

what do you mean i ahve to calibrate it correctly"?

you said get a new rotor as a tuneup...what is that?

and when changing the sensors, how would i go about changing them?


thanks for all your help smokin 240. i got your aim sn so ill IM if i see you online

 

also i might buy a 97 ka24de ...with 100k on it for 150$$

is that good deal?

 

Yeah, that's a pretty good deal. Keep an eye on midatlantic240sx.com (if your near the east coast), ********.com, and lookoutdrift.com for motors too, you might find one with lower mileage if that's what your looking for. I found a ka24de close to me with just under 70k with an included auto tranny (which I sold for 75) for 350.

The rotor is the black cylinder looking thing where all the plug wires connect to. If you look underneath it's cap, it has a thing that looks like a clock arm with a metal piece on the end that spins around and sparks each plug wire. After awhile, it get's worn out and it's good to replace it.

To properly install a TPS, you need to have a multimeter. Here's a how-to
http://forums.********.com/zerothread/161700

Here's one on replacing the knock sensor. But trust me, it's ALOT easier and 3 minute job if you do it while the motor is out of the car.
http://forums.********.com/zerothread/160234

If you back up here http://forums.********.com/zeroforum?id=190 there's alot of good articles there for the 240sx.

One of my biggest problems was getting the timing right after getting the motor in and everything was set to go. You have to get this right in order for the car to start and run well, or at all. It's hard to explain how to do it, and it's best to have someone who's done it before with you. Timing is getting the rotor to fire at the correct time on each plug wire so all 4 cylinders detonate when they are suppose to. If I catch you online sometime I'll try and explain it in more detail. Which reminds me, you also need your old rotor on the new motor.

 

That will release pressure in the tank itself, but there will still be fuel in the lines, so he will have to do what I said in my first post in this thread and pull the pump fuse and crank it over to relieve all pressure and clear the lines as much as possible, unless of course he likes gas pouring out.

 

There must not be that much pressure in the lines, when I disconnected them I had barely any coming out.