I have an s13 red top sr20det (40k miles, coil ignition) in my 92 240 hatch coupe. We did the swap ourselves about 4 months ago and it went pretty well. Mods are an apexi n1 turbo back, kts front mount kit, hks ssq, intake, and safc ii (untuned), new timing cover, greddy head gasket kit, and rocker arm stopper kit. The car was running fine for the last month, just a little rich cause its not tuned. The car wouldnt idle without your foot on the pedal though. We had a blitz bov on there and found out that it was leaking. We replaced it with an HKS ssq. Then we noticed it was ticking a little bit at 1500 rpms and it sounded like ****. (this is all about a week after installing the safc ii) Also oil smoke was coming out of the breather. We checked the plugs and they were ****. We replaced them with denso iridiums. Now the car will idle but it goes up and then almost stalls continuously. And smoke comes out of the breather on the valve cover everytime it almost stalls. If we keep it at 1500+ rpms it ticks a tiny bit and I dont know if its valves, cams or what. I dont want to drive it and hurt anything. Before I pull the cover I wanted to know if anyone thinks they know whats going on with it. I also had my dealership replace the throw out bearing a week ago because it blew. It was running strong though... Is having a breather valve on there have something to do with this?

 

it could just be your injectors.... the injectors will click some what loud.

i have pretty much the same setup you do...now my injectors are clicking really really bad. while my car was running, i unplugged one injector at a time and i have pin pointed the ones that are clicking the worse

hopefully that will help you out

 

is it bad that they are clicking??? i just bought a walbro pump kit and i plan on putting that in sometime soon... is it bad that i have a breather on there?

this is exactly what it has in it, just got it form my friend..

JDM SR20DET Redtop
@ 9 psi
HKS Valve Springs
HKS Rocker Arm Stopper kit
Greddy Metal Head Gasket
Greddy 3” Downpipe
Apexi N1 3" Catback Exhaust
3” Test Pipe
Stage 4 Clutch
Apex-i SAFC (version 2)
Full HPI FMIC intercooler kit
HKS SSQ BOV

 

..Injectors are SUPPOSE to click..

your breather is fine..stop freaking out and go buy a taco or t2o

 

Why would my idle be going up and down? And smoke will come out of the breather when it almost stalls... Would anyone recommend doing this procedure? Sorry i'm kind of a newb with this engine but I just got it. I have a turbo spec v and could tell you anything you need to know about that car... Just trying to start a new project!


The injectors make a good bit of noise sometimes.. Also, you could have some hydraulic lash adjusters that have air in them.. or, are just bad. The SR is a fairly noisy motor... the valvetrain's make up makes it that way. If it's a light ticking noise.. It's probably nothing too serious.. if it's a sharp metallic sound, or deep sound.. that gets worse with RPM, it's probably a bearing, or piston slap. Sometimes, when you run a engine excessively rich, you wash the oil from the cylinder walls, and can score the piston/rings. This will make the piston rock in the bore.. and make a sharp metallic sound. This is called piston slap. Only remedy for that is to replace the pistons/rings. My suggestion... pull some oil from the engine, and send it get analyzed. That will tell you if you have a mechanical failure in the engine. They can check for high levels of metal particles in the oil.

As for your idle... have you guys performed a reset of the TPS and IACV systems? Here's how you do it.. unplug the TPS, and the idle air control valve (located between the 3rd and 4th intake runner. You can see it from looking down from above those two runners. It's got a big set screw on top. Unplug the 4 wire plug that's mounted to the runner.. There's 2 of them. 1 is a 2 wire plug, and the other is a 4 wire plug. Make sure just to unplug the 4 wire plug. Start the car, and see if it will idle. Make sure that all accesories are turned off. If it won't idle.. or idles too high.. Use a long flat head screw driver, to adjust the big set screw on the Idle air control valve (located between the 3rd and 4th runners) Turning it clockwise should lower the idle, and turning it counter-clockwise should raise the idle. Once you get the idle at 800rpm or so.. turn the car off. Plug the 4 wire plug back in. Turn the key to the "on" position, but don't start the engine. Plug the TPS back in.. Measure the voltage between the center and upper wire. And check the voltage between the center and bottom wire. One should read under 1 volt. It needs to be around .50 volts. If it's not.. loosen the set screws, and turn the TPS until you see .50 volts. Tighten the set screws, and you should be good to go.

Make sure that you don't have any vacuum leaks..

 

Ok heres the deal…
Gapped the plugs to .030, changed the oil with synthetic. Started it up and it ran fine for about 10 minutes. Then it started jumping again and spitting smoke out of the breather. It also was ticking pretty loud and it got louder with rpm increase. Also more and more smoke would come out as you increased rpm. I’m thinking severe blow-by. Piston ring(s)? Right now its un-driveable and it wont even idle anymore, you have to keep your foot on the pedal. Does it sound like I need a new motor?

 

im going through pretty much the same thing.... as soon as i figure something out i will let you know

 

2fast what are your engines symptoms exact same thing?

 

so now the car wont idle and it just dies unless you hold the gas... smokes like crazy too.. bad rings anyone?

 

A compression test would help.