anyone recommend a exhaust?
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 104
anyone recommend a exhaust?
man I've been looking into a lot of exhausts i dont wanna go way over price im llookin at maby a max of 500 for a catback. I was lookin into the buddy club from a company called FR-Sport. They seem to have a really good selection of sr20det parts and good price on top of than.I need some other good slections from you guys i want really good performance but i dont want it to sound like a fart can honda either so a little help would be cool thanks.
Buddy Club BC03-SP2EXS13 Spec II Catback Exhaust System S13
http://www.frsport.com/Buddy_Club_BC...13_p_1311.html
Buddy Club BC03-SP2EXS13 Spec II Catback Exhaust System S13
http://www.frsport.com/Buddy_Club_BC...13_p_1311.html
Contributing Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 3,096
From: San Jose, CA
if you like the spec II, then you can have somthing similar made at your local muffler shop for a lot cheaper. if your in the CA bay area, i can weld you up something similar for ~$200. but what are the chances of you being local.
good luck.
good luck.
hmmm what kinda of custom shops you have around your way.... there are a few very popular custom shops in my area that have been around for years and can weld anything you throw at them.......
i haven't been to them in a while since i do my own stuff....... i understand you don't wanna weld.. but you should be able to grab some 304 stainless just like me and you can slap it together in no time dude.......... i just cant buy anything if i can make it myself lol
i haven't been to them in a while since i do my own stuff....... i understand you don't wanna weld.. but you should be able to grab some 304 stainless just like me and you can slap it together in no time dude.......... i just cant buy anything if i can make it myself lol
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 434
From: VA
i've got the buddy club spec 2. i got it because i wanted a straight pipe primarily.
the price i was quoted from a local exhaust shop went like this:
$200 for 3" piping from the downpipe back (good bye cat)
if i wanted a tip, i buy what i like and he'll weld it up. the tip i wanted (3" to 4" similar to the bc) was $50+ for a nice stainless steel one (chaper ones rust, i know cause this wouldn't be my first time doing this) the tip i wanted was coming in at $100
so $300 for a full exhaust not bad, but i chose to buy the bc instead
why?
$350 for the exhaust pretty damn cheap a little more than what i'd pay for a custom piece
stainless steel already bent and it's mandrel not crush like most.
i can just bolt it on in my garage i don't have to drive open downpipe to an exhaust shop
it's in pieces and not one giant piece
i bought a megan test pipe but again if i ever wanted to put in a cat, simply unbolt and replace.
so i can redo my exhaust any time i like. if i went custom i'd have to do modify a lot of stuff.
this will sit the way i want it to, and look like i want it to. i'd have to explain and show examples of what i wanted if i took it to an exhaust shop.
you got your pros and cons. the bc spec 2 looks nice i think it'll mount up nicely but the silencer doesn't just slide in to the tip, gotta massage it in. it's not all that high of quality but i don't regret my decision. came with a few blemishes already in how it was polished. whatever. it was only $350.
did i help at all?
the price i was quoted from a local exhaust shop went like this:
$200 for 3" piping from the downpipe back (good bye cat)
if i wanted a tip, i buy what i like and he'll weld it up. the tip i wanted (3" to 4" similar to the bc) was $50+ for a nice stainless steel one (chaper ones rust, i know cause this wouldn't be my first time doing this) the tip i wanted was coming in at $100
so $300 for a full exhaust not bad, but i chose to buy the bc instead
why?
$350 for the exhaust pretty damn cheap a little more than what i'd pay for a custom piece
stainless steel already bent and it's mandrel not crush like most.
i can just bolt it on in my garage i don't have to drive open downpipe to an exhaust shop
it's in pieces and not one giant piece
i bought a megan test pipe but again if i ever wanted to put in a cat, simply unbolt and replace.
so i can redo my exhaust any time i like. if i went custom i'd have to do modify a lot of stuff.
this will sit the way i want it to, and look like i want it to. i'd have to explain and show examples of what i wanted if i took it to an exhaust shop.
you got your pros and cons. the bc spec 2 looks nice i think it'll mount up nicely but the silencer doesn't just slide in to the tip, gotta massage it in. it's not all that high of quality but i don't regret my decision. came with a few blemishes already in how it was polished. whatever. it was only $350.
did i help at all?
I recommend any exhaust as long as it isn't made of stainless steel (it will corrode from the hydro carbons and crack at the welds) .
It should have 2.5" or above diameter. 2.5" is quiet with a little less power than a 3" exhaust we are talking about minor HP differences with in a donkey)
The muffler should have straight through design for maximum performance.
Name brands don't mean crap IMO as long as you follow these simple rules....
It should have 2.5" or above diameter. 2.5" is quiet with a little less power than a 3" exhaust we are talking about minor HP differences with in a donkey)
The muffler should have straight through design for maximum performance.
Name brands don't mean crap IMO as long as you follow these simple rules....
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 401
From: SWFLA.
For s14:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-N...03473188QQrdZ1
For s13:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/N1-CA...11247757QQrdZ1
I have the s13 version (almost the same) they cast about $200 - $220 and are really nice. much better than a muffler-shop job . There are a lot of people on this forum that have this catback and the quality/fitment is A+++.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-N...03473188QQrdZ1
For s13:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/N1-CA...11247757QQrdZ1
I have the s13 version (almost the same) they cast about $200 - $220 and are really nice. much better than a muffler-shop job . There are a lot of people on this forum that have this catback and the quality/fitment is A+++.
For s14:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-N...03473188QQrdZ1
For s13:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/N1-CA...11247757QQrdZ1
I have the s13 version (almost the same) they cast about $200 - $220 and are really nice. much better than a muffler-shop job . There are a lot of people on this forum that have this catback and the quality/fitment is A+++.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-N...03473188QQrdZ1
For s13:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/N1-CA...11247757QQrdZ1
I have the s13 version (almost the same) they cast about $200 - $220 and are really nice. much better than a muffler-shop job . There are a lot of people on this forum that have this catback and the quality/fitment is A+++.
Some people just don't listen when I say stainless steel corrodes. It's a horrible steel to use and the process needed to fabricate and weld it correctly is more expensive than the exhaust itself meaning that it will fall apart.
This is a lesson that I already showed in the sr20det thread on crappy ssautocrap manifolds...http://www.club240.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37918
Originally Posted by wikipedia
Intergranular corrosion
Some compositions of stainless steel are prone to intergranular corrosion when exposed to certain environments. When heated to around 700 °C, chromium carbide forms at the intergranular boundaries, depleting the grain edges of chromium, impairing their corrosion resistance. Steel in such condition is called sensitized. Steels with carbon content 0.06% undergo sensitization in about 2 minutes, while steels with carbon content under 0.02% are not sensitive to it.
A special case of intergranular corrosion is called 'weld decay' or 'knifeline attack'(KLA). Due to the elevated temperatures of welding the stainless steel can be sensitized very locally along the weld. The chromium depletion creates a galvanic couple with the well-protected alloy nearby in highly corrosive environments. As the name 'knifeline attack' implies, this is limited to a small zone, often only a few micrometres across, which causes it to proceed more rapidly. This zone is very near the weld, making it even less noticeable[5].
It is possible to reclaim sensitized steel by heating it to above 1000 °C and holding at this temperature for a given period of time dependent on the mass of the piece, followed by quenching it in water. This process dissolves the carbide particles, then keeps them in solution.
It is also possible to stabilize the steel to avoid this effect and make it welding-friendly. Addition of titanium, niobium and/or tantalum serves this purpose; titanium carbide, niobium carbide and tantalum carbide form preferentially to chromium carbide, protecting the grains from chromium depletion. Use of extra-low carbon steels is another method and modern steel production usually ensures a carbon content of <0.03% at which level intergranular corrosion is not a problem. Light-gauge steel also does not tend to display this behavior, as the cooling after welding is too fast to cause effective carbide formation.
Crevice corrosion
In the presence of reducing acids or exposure to reducing atmosphere, the passivation layer protecting steel from corrosion can break down. This wear can also depend on the mechanical construction of the parts, eg. under gaskets, in sharp corners, or in incomplete welds. Such crevices may promote corrosion, if their size allows penetration of the corroding agent but not its free movement. The mechanism of crevice corrosion is similar to pitting corrosion, though it happens at lower temperatures.
Stress corrosion cracking
Stress corrosion cracking can be a severe form of stainless steel corrosion. It forms when the material is subjected to tensile stress and some corrosive environments, especially chloride-rich environments (sea water) at higher temperatures. The stresses can be a result of service loads, or can be caused by the type of assembly or residual stresses from fabrication (eg. cold working); residual stresses can be relieved by annealing. This limits the usefulness of stainless steels of the 300 series (304, 316) for containing water with higher than few ppm content of chlorides at temperatures above 50 °C. In more aggressive conditions, higher alloyed austenitic stainless steels (6% Mo grades) or Mo containing duplex stainless steels may be selected.
Stress corrosion cracking depends on the nickel content. High nickel content austenitic (non-magnetic) steels, which are the most resistant to other forms of corrosion, tend to be the most susceptible to stress corrosion.
Chlorine catalyzes the formation of hydrogen which hardens and embrittles the metal locally, causing concentration of the stress and a microscopic crack. The chlorine moves into the crack, continuing the process.
Some compositions of stainless steel are prone to intergranular corrosion when exposed to certain environments. When heated to around 700 °C, chromium carbide forms at the intergranular boundaries, depleting the grain edges of chromium, impairing their corrosion resistance. Steel in such condition is called sensitized. Steels with carbon content 0.06% undergo sensitization in about 2 minutes, while steels with carbon content under 0.02% are not sensitive to it.
A special case of intergranular corrosion is called 'weld decay' or 'knifeline attack'(KLA). Due to the elevated temperatures of welding the stainless steel can be sensitized very locally along the weld. The chromium depletion creates a galvanic couple with the well-protected alloy nearby in highly corrosive environments. As the name 'knifeline attack' implies, this is limited to a small zone, often only a few micrometres across, which causes it to proceed more rapidly. This zone is very near the weld, making it even less noticeable[5].
It is possible to reclaim sensitized steel by heating it to above 1000 °C and holding at this temperature for a given period of time dependent on the mass of the piece, followed by quenching it in water. This process dissolves the carbide particles, then keeps them in solution.
It is also possible to stabilize the steel to avoid this effect and make it welding-friendly. Addition of titanium, niobium and/or tantalum serves this purpose; titanium carbide, niobium carbide and tantalum carbide form preferentially to chromium carbide, protecting the grains from chromium depletion. Use of extra-low carbon steels is another method and modern steel production usually ensures a carbon content of <0.03% at which level intergranular corrosion is not a problem. Light-gauge steel also does not tend to display this behavior, as the cooling after welding is too fast to cause effective carbide formation.
Crevice corrosion
In the presence of reducing acids or exposure to reducing atmosphere, the passivation layer protecting steel from corrosion can break down. This wear can also depend on the mechanical construction of the parts, eg. under gaskets, in sharp corners, or in incomplete welds. Such crevices may promote corrosion, if their size allows penetration of the corroding agent but not its free movement. The mechanism of crevice corrosion is similar to pitting corrosion, though it happens at lower temperatures.
Stress corrosion cracking
Stress corrosion cracking can be a severe form of stainless steel corrosion. It forms when the material is subjected to tensile stress and some corrosive environments, especially chloride-rich environments (sea water) at higher temperatures. The stresses can be a result of service loads, or can be caused by the type of assembly or residual stresses from fabrication (eg. cold working); residual stresses can be relieved by annealing. This limits the usefulness of stainless steels of the 300 series (304, 316) for containing water with higher than few ppm content of chlorides at temperatures above 50 °C. In more aggressive conditions, higher alloyed austenitic stainless steels (6% Mo grades) or Mo containing duplex stainless steels may be selected.
Stress corrosion cracking depends on the nickel content. High nickel content austenitic (non-magnetic) steels, which are the most resistant to other forms of corrosion, tend to be the most susceptible to stress corrosion.
Chlorine catalyzes the formation of hydrogen which hardens and embrittles the metal locally, causing concentration of the stress and a microscopic crack. The chlorine moves into the crack, continuing the process.
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 401
From: SWFLA.
thats real nice and fancy, and i respect you so much (bowing down), - but the kid is looking for an exhaust on the cheap, maybe to sound cool and nothing more. i've had mine for awhile and have noticed no cracks, and i inspect it and polish it and love it like it was my own child. also ss autocrap manifolds, as you call them, are subject to much higher heat and stress than the catback section of the exhaust.
Take that Fin' sarcasm to another forum no one needs it here.
Stainless steel is just a short term investment if you like to buy a new exhaust every 2 to 3 years that's your opinion.... A good high quality steel exhaust that can be found at any custom exhaust shop should last you 7 to 10 years just as OEM would it's higher grade carbon steel. My job is to relay the info as truth full as it is so the consumer doesn't get screwed with what they could think is a good investment down the road. If you spend the additional money on certain higher grade products they pay off in the long run. I'm tired of people assuming that the cheap stuff is the way to go for performance.
You are open to your suggestions and opinion not your sarcasm.
Stainless steel is just a short term investment if you like to buy a new exhaust every 2 to 3 years that's your opinion.... A good high quality steel exhaust that can be found at any custom exhaust shop should last you 7 to 10 years just as OEM would it's higher grade carbon steel. My job is to relay the info as truth full as it is so the consumer doesn't get screwed with what they could think is a good investment down the road. If you spend the additional money on certain higher grade products they pay off in the long run. I'm tired of people assuming that the cheap stuff is the way to go for performance.
You are open to your suggestions and opinion not your sarcasm.
Last edited by BigVinnie; Apr 19, 2007 at 07:25 PM.
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 36
From: Knoxville
I dropped almost 700 on my Nur Spec R catback system almost six years ago. It is in as good as shape as the day I bought it. It is a stainless steel system. You get what you pay for as far as I'm concerned.
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 401
From: SWFLA.
i had no tone of sarcasm , i respect you a lot and have used almost every one of your write-ups and how to's. I was just trying to help this kid out, and it seems that he is just looking for a "cool" upgrade for his car. I just wanted to try to steer him towards something a little cheaper and quiter, since he was going the Stainless-Steel route anyway. i'm sorry if i offended you.
