jbayles

Just for posterity, thought I would keep a running tab of repairs and expenses, and observations as I slowly repair/build up my 1990 240sx. Read if you like, comment if you see me doing something retarded or to cheer me on when I am discouraged! Thanks!


1990 240sx Fast Back - Black - Some minor body damage

ka24e auto 238k miles

680 dollars from Discount Auto in Allentown PA


- double silicone spark-plug wires 20.00 from autozone - installed

- auto-lite coppers, 1.29 each from autozone - installed

- front and rear pads and hardware kits, nissan dealer I work at 120.00

- el cheapo rotors from Joy(some parts jobber my parts department uses) 22.00 per rear, 20.00 per front

running total:

~909.20

I have never seen rotors this badly warped before, I get the new ones tomorrow so I will do the whole break job tomorrow night after work. The rotors are so bad the caused the on-car brake-lathe to deflect from side to side by about 2 inches, making them utterly un-cutable.

I suspect that the springs and shocks are bad on this vehicle, as well that it needs an alignment. I need to sell my supra before I can buy decent springs and struts without encouring wife-wrath

There is a rattle in the exhaust, which I have found to be a broken exhaust hanger playing innagoddadavita on the pipe as I ride down the road. I will reweld that this week.

The speedometer is not functioning, nor is the odometer and trip odometer.

The odometer currently lists 238k miles, wow.

The engine has that tell-tale yellow crayon on it, I surmise the engine is not original to the vehicle, this would explain why the odometer/ speedo cable is not hooked up, perhaps this engine was installed in a junkyard.


There was some fuel spilling from the rail. This evening I disconnected the rail and injectors and gave everything in that area a thurough cleaning. This seemed to stop the problem.

There is a dent in the drivers side rear quarter panel, its a doosey, will probably require the panel to be replaced at some point. I'll try to save it anyway.

Tires show excessive outside wear, guessing excessive positive chamber.

Exhast is intact! Hard to believe.

Engine has a messy diaper, gonna need to do a re-ring and re-gasket.

JMB

wikd240

i have a question about your speedometer and odometer... are they the digital ones??? if so get a new speedo or search the forums on the hud not working... i have posted a few times on this... and in the end im getting a new speedo... they are 213 at nissan...
other than that keep up with the progress... i will look back in on this from time to time...

jbayles

Mine are mechanical, thanks for the suggestion though.

Today I did a full front break job, the NASTY pulsation is gone, rears are still moaning, those will wait till tomorrow. Fronts came out nice, while I was under there I got aquianted with the suspension.

What a tough suspension for such a small car. I especially like the forward stiffeners. I imagine when I have good shocks and struts this car will be ready to take a beating on the turns. Durability by design.

I noticed that the right side of the power rack boot was cracked near the edge, usually unless you have caught this within the first eight hours, this means its dead. But there was no rust and the seal looked good. So I stretched what remained of the boot over the ring and tied it off with mechanics wire.

Drove the car around tonight for a little while. I can tell the car wants to perform. I wonder how much power the auto trans can hold up to in this vehicle.

JMB

jbayles

Today I replaced the cat-back exhaust with a oem spec. Tapped twice on the cat bolts with a flat punch, heated the flange with a torch and they came right out, threads perfect. I was beside myself. Small miracles.

Did the rear brakes today, only to find one of my rear pistons was seized.

Unbolted the caliper, disconnected it from the fluid line and parking brake cable. Put it in a vice, tapped the piston a fews times with my flat punch again, torched it, and put the compression tool into place. Torque the tool lightly a few times with an air gun and my piston came free, seal intact. I was beside myself again.

Bled three of the four lines, right front bleeder didnt wanna play ball so I backed off it.


Under hard breaking my front wheels skid, pedal feels a little soft. Gonna power bleed all the old fluid out.

No more exhaust rattle from the broken hanger, and no more exhaust leak from the resonator. Working brakes. Life is good.

Bought a 300zx fuel filter, will put that in tomorrow. Running total up to 1072.00

Only blaring problems which remain are strut related. Engine has 240k miles on it and could use a rebuild but the engine isn't really hurting or anything.


JMB

jbayles

Replaced the fuel filter as planned

oem spec cat back exhaust replaced

left rear caliper blew most of the brake fluid into the wheel well over the course of a weeks driving, couldnt get availability on a cheap part so I disassembled to find that the piston was pitted with corrosion. I spun-ground it using my screwdriver as a shaft and the bench grinder/wire wheel, taking off enough material to create a new surface. Then I removed the rubber seal and soaked it in trans fuild for an hour to swell it. Re-assembled and it sealed and holds fluid, been solid for two days so far, letting it go till it dies for the sake of morbid curiosity. Pulled that one out of my butt for sure.

Replaced the front struts with kyb agx-2s a nice little gas shock with some firmness but not enough to cause me to need dialisys every three days from my kidneys being shaken like you guys all seem to like

Rear struts are here but not in yet.

Got an oem gaugepod for 32 bucks shipped on ebay, installed, now I know how fast I'm driving!

JMB