dak2007

Ok I decided to try the JB weld way of fixing the rust on my hatch and I thought I would share it with everyone on here.

Suplies needed. I actually have 3 things of JB weld and I forgot to put the file in there but you get the idea. I have some extra material left over and all this ran me about $50.


The reason for the job...


To remove the duct tape.

Scary isn't it?

After nearly 2 hours of sanding with 80 grit.


After cutting away the rusted threw portions and filing down loose ends. You want to cut the rusted threw parts away last or it makes it harder.


Shape the metal on the outside of your car with a hammer so you get the curve of the trunk right.


I found that it was easier to mix the JB weld on the actual piece of metal to be put in the trunk then it was to mix it and transfer it.


When the JB weld says it gets hot as it's curing it's not lying. You have to hold it in place for like 3-4 minutes so I sugest wearing some gloves. Right now I have about 3/4 hours invested in this but you could move a lot quicker if you have a dremel tool/ grinder. I'll post more pics tomorrow while I'm bondoing and painting. If you have any questions PM me.

Ayuaddict

looks GREAT

i was gonna post mine up, maybe we could combine them because on mine, i fixed the holes of the third brake light and wiper, but basically same procedure.

shiet we should compile a sticky on DIY things like this.

dak2007

isn't it illegal to get rid of the 3rd break light? this might should be a sticky...

Ayuaddict

haha, so are my ride height, ITBs and exhaust.

...oh well

nsn240

i dont think so... bomex180 doesnt have one.
A missing brakelight would be the least of my concerns if I got pulled over haha

Bryan

AFAIK, it is illegal to remove the third brake light if the vehicle came equipped with one from the factory.

Awesome write up so far, I'll sticky it soon and then send a cleaned up copy to the FAQ section.

dak2007

As promised here is an update of today so far.

I put bondo where bondo needed to go. As you can tell from the pic one of the holes doesn't have bondo yet. That's because I didn't like the way the JB weld set up last night so I redid it.


Almost done with the first round of bondo and sanding. Oh wait this is why you don't get in a hurry while working on your car. I didn't let that one patch fully cure (4-24 hours recomended) and it fell threw.


So right now I have put some more bondo on the areas I've already sanded down. I'm waiting on that to dry so I can go final sand that. Then I have to wait probably untill tomorrow so I can do the bondo/ sanding process on that one last patch.

silviaks2nr

iTrader: (1)

see it works doesnt it?
remember after you do the basecoat to wetsand through 1000 grit or so and then clear coat it.
i would remove the 3rd brake light aswell. you can always extend the wires into the cabin and put an led strip behind the back seat or something

dak2007

I don't mind the 3rd brake light. As far as paint goes I think I'm just going to primer gray the hatch for now. I don't want the hatch being the only part of the car with a half decent paint job.

dak2007

After all the bondo/sanding is done.


From another angle.


With some paint on her.



Now all I have to do is a little wet sanding. I realized just how ****y it looked after I painted it and you can tell exactly where all the bondo is. I need to fan that out just a little bit more.

Bryan

Looks like its coming along nicely, keep us updated on how it turns out.

silviaks2nr

iTrader: (1)

did you use a sanding block or just sandpaper and your hand? make a block and start with like 200 grit or so then do another spray of that grey

dak2007

I have to buy some wet-sand sandpaper. I'm going to get a new hatch one day. This is primaraly to be functional and look better then duct tape.

silviaks2nr

iTrader: (1)

i would drysand the bondo... just wetsand the base coat before clear