GUIDE: Installing a Performance Radiator
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 189
Actually, a cap with a stronger spring puts the system under more pressure, which does raise the boiling point of the coolant. The downside of a high pressure cap is that it puts more stress on the system, possibly leading to leaks or even blown radiator tank seams. It's not a great idea to put a higher-than-stock cap on a car with an old, OE radiator, old hoses, etc.
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Contributing Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,634
From: Hershey, PA
Originally posted by l2aine
I dunno about this whole thread.
Title should have been something like "change a radiator on your SR fanless engine swap".
I dunno about this whole thread.
Title should have been something like "change a radiator on your SR fanless engine swap".
Plus you didn't bleed the system, that's like the most important step when changing radiator fluid and/or radiators.
Kinda funny how you strongly recommend upgrading or changing to an electric setup during the swap . Why? Is it because the clutch fan really doesn't work? Or because you have an efan and have no real idea how to do the job on a car that has a clutch fan? =P
(BTW KA or SR, if you have a clutch fan all you have to do is remove the fan shroud - not the whole fan as this thread states)
i should get one though)
Oh and changing radiator caps does not "raise the boiling point". What it does is change the point at which the cap opens up to release excess coolant to the resevoir.
Last edited by nsn240; Dec 26, 2005 at 12:54 PM.
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