Running lean plus slight oil leak...pointers? (journal hehe)
02-21-2005, 08:52 AM
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Running lean plus slight oil leak...pointers? (journal hehe)
Whats up guys...n00b here. I posted this on 240sxforums.com and got nothing so I figured Id post here.
I got some pepboys certificates for my work and decided I would change the spark plugs on my 240. I bought a torque wrench and some Bosch Plat. 4s. When I took the old ones out all of them were bright white.
I went to go help a friend later that evening with his coilovers on his Civic Si and decided to take a break and look over the paper work David (the guy I bought the car from SN from 240sxforums: D-S14) gave me:
Back in July of last year he had the front strut rods replaced and had an inspection done on the car. Here's what they found:
1) Front timing cover assembly is leaking oil. They quoted $1,014.05+tax for the repair on that...jesus christ wtf...he did not have this repair done so I figure its still leaking oil (David did say there is a slight oil leak but didnt know where it was coming from).
2)They also advised that the rear end needs to be replaced...blah whatever the rear end just makes noise below 1,800 rpms. A very low pitch, bass-like noise. A concern?
Now my main concerns are the car running so lean, the leak and finding out wtf is rattling. I am probably going to replace the fuel filter and dump some injector cleaner in the tank and then check the plugs after 300 or so miles and see if that helped. Ive got another record from 5/19/04 that states the fuel filter is "OK" but other listings such as the air filter state "Checked & OK" so I figure they didnt check the ****.
The rattling at first I thought was coming from the rear of the motor but listening to it last night I think it is coming from the front of the engine. Im going to run by Nissan and pick up a valve cover gasket (stupid question and I know its probably not the "right" thing to do: Can I use the old one?) and check the valvetrain...I hope to god I dont need a valve adjustment )
So any pointers on fixing the leak and the lean problem?
...a day later...
ok bought a fuel filter last night and went to install it. DAMN! those hoses are tight...anyway i got the top hose off and fuel started dribbling out of the top. Granted I had removed the fuel pump and let the car stall 5 times to clear the lines. The car was jacked up from the front so that gravity wouldnt have been a factor but the fuel kept coming...crystal clear too. So I figure the fitler is fine.
Now I decided to check the injectors...couldnt get them out. I removed the cover with the phillips head sd, tried to pry it out, but to no evail. Then took the fuel rail loose and the only thing I saw was the injector head. For fear of damaging the head I just bolted the rail back up, but the cover back on and reinstalled the fuel pump fuse.
I dumped the fuel system cleaner (Valvoline synthetic) into a half full tank and driving around on it until I can get to a gas station and not be late for work (like this morning )
2/20/05
Well I took the valve cover off tonight. Couldnt find anything loose except two 12mm bolts at the front of the motor...but not loose enough to cause any problems. I stuck my finger under the timing chain and there was a little play (I could lift it up 2-3mm). So I flipped the valve cover over to wipe the seals down and noticed that there were some rubbed areas at the front of the cover. I have comed to the assumed conclusion that the chain is rubbing against the cover. My question is: Is there suppose to be that much play in the chain or is it suppose to be play-free? I only hear this at idle
I got some pepboys certificates for my work and decided I would change the spark plugs on my 240. I bought a torque wrench and some Bosch Plat. 4s. When I took the old ones out all of them were bright white.
I went to go help a friend later that evening with his coilovers on his Civic Si and decided to take a break and look over the paper work David (the guy I bought the car from SN from 240sxforums: D-S14) gave me:
Back in July of last year he had the front strut rods replaced and had an inspection done on the car. Here's what they found:
1) Front timing cover assembly is leaking oil. They quoted $1,014.05+tax for the repair on that...jesus christ wtf...he did not have this repair done so I figure its still leaking oil (David did say there is a slight oil leak but didnt know where it was coming from).
2)They also advised that the rear end needs to be replaced...blah whatever the rear end just makes noise below 1,800 rpms. A very low pitch, bass-like noise. A concern?
Now my main concerns are the car running so lean, the leak and finding out wtf is rattling. I am probably going to replace the fuel filter and dump some injector cleaner in the tank and then check the plugs after 300 or so miles and see if that helped. Ive got another record from 5/19/04 that states the fuel filter is "OK" but other listings such as the air filter state "Checked & OK" so I figure they didnt check the ****.
The rattling at first I thought was coming from the rear of the motor but listening to it last night I think it is coming from the front of the engine. Im going to run by Nissan and pick up a valve cover gasket (stupid question and I know its probably not the "right" thing to do: Can I use the old one?) and check the valvetrain...I hope to god I dont need a valve adjustment )
So any pointers on fixing the leak and the lean problem?
...a day later...
ok bought a fuel filter last night and went to install it. DAMN! those hoses are tight...anyway i got the top hose off and fuel started dribbling out of the top. Granted I had removed the fuel pump and let the car stall 5 times to clear the lines. The car was jacked up from the front so that gravity wouldnt have been a factor but the fuel kept coming...crystal clear too. So I figure the fitler is fine.
Now I decided to check the injectors...couldnt get them out. I removed the cover with the phillips head sd, tried to pry it out, but to no evail. Then took the fuel rail loose and the only thing I saw was the injector head. For fear of damaging the head I just bolted the rail back up, but the cover back on and reinstalled the fuel pump fuse.
I dumped the fuel system cleaner (Valvoline synthetic) into a half full tank and driving around on it until I can get to a gas station and not be late for work (like this morning )
2/20/05
Well I took the valve cover off tonight. Couldnt find anything loose except two 12mm bolts at the front of the motor...but not loose enough to cause any problems. I stuck my finger under the timing chain and there was a little play (I could lift it up 2-3mm). So I flipped the valve cover over to wipe the seals down and noticed that there were some rubbed areas at the front of the cover. I have comed to the assumed conclusion that the chain is rubbing against the cover. My question is: Is there suppose to be that much play in the chain or is it suppose to be play-free? I only hear this at idle
02-21-2005, 10:11 AM
#2
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when you removed the cover did you notice if the front timing chain guide is still installed??? if it is remove it... as well as the lower on on the upper timing chain... there will be a little play in the chain it is not enough to harm anything... there is a guide on how to remove the upper guides and exactly how to do it... for the front timing chain cover leaking the only way to repair that is to remove the oil pan to get the front cover off... that is why there was so much of a charge to do it... in most cases the motor is pulled out to remove the oil pan... i can pull my motor in 4 hours... but i have had it out a time or 4... and have the whole thing ripped down to bare block in a lil over 6 hours... so it all depends on how much skill you have in fixing the timing chain cover leak... the lean condition could also be caused by a bad or going bad o2 sensor... check for any codes on your ecu... and see if anything comes up... i get codes but no check engine light... but that is my car and not everyone's...
02-21-2005, 10:49 AM
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^thanks for the help...im mechanically inclined somewhat but have never really done major work...ill set aside a weekend. I noticed the top guide was still installed...didnt look for the bottom one. I was looking at the FSM about the timing chain replacement...im sure the motor being pulled makes things a hell of a lot easier but is it worth the extra time?
Last edited by 98cwitr; 02-21-2005 at 12:39 PM.
02-21-2005, 12:52 PM
#4
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: knoxville tn
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you cant remove the front timing chain cover with the oil pan on... project my240 is having the same probem now with trying to get the oil pan out of the car without pulling the motor or dropping the front suspention... i would say it is easier to pull the motor... ps you are only 6 hours away... if you had all the parts it could be done in a weekend... and i just happen to have a hoist and have done this lots of times in the past... you could always use my driveway and tools to do it and have a spare hand to help ya...
Last edited by wikd240; 02-21-2005 at 12:54 PM.
02-21-2005, 01:41 PM
#5
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^I would really appreciate that. Ill send you a PM sometime.
Ok so parts needed:
New timing chain
Liquid gasket
New gaskets (timing chain cover, valve cover)
new oil seal <--- needed?
coolant
I have all the proper tools (minus air tools and a hoist) torque wrench etc.
So the chain doesnt sound loose to you...might just be the tensioners?
Ok so parts needed:
New timing chain
Liquid gasket
New gaskets (timing chain cover, valve cover)
new oil seal <--- needed?
coolant
I have all the proper tools (minus air tools and a hoist) torque wrench etc.
So the chain doesnt sound loose to you...might just be the tensioners?
Last edited by 98cwitr; 02-21-2005 at 01:47 PM.
02-21-2005, 01:50 PM
#6
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i dont even think it is the tensioner... i think it is the timing chain guides... there is one on the top which you have seen... and one on the right hand side as you look at the motor under the upper timing chain cover... both need to be removed... as they are useless... they make noise and worse they can break and end up in the motor... not a good thing to have... i dont mind helping you out... you just gotta buy the pizza... i even have a spare bed to crash in if it takes 2 days...
02-22-2005, 04:26 PM
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if you are going to pull the motor there are a few things i would suggest you get while you are out parts shopping... makes life easier doing it when the motor is out of the car... replace all the water holding hoses that are under the intake manifold... get a new rear main seal... and a new front seal kit... the oil pan will be resealed in the process... just let me know when and give me at least a week in advance so i can make sure im not busy and have room in the driveway to work on the car... make sure you get oil new filter and coolant as well... you are going to need it... and since the motor will be out of the car... get engine degreaser to clean things up inside of the engine compartment... damn that turned into a long list...
02-23-2005, 07:33 AM
#9
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ok now about the lean factor...I imagine its either the pressure regulator or the injectors...any other things I should look for. I figure thats why my car shudders...lack of fuel. (but im getting great gas milage 
)
)
02-24-2005, 02:49 AM
#10
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could be pluged injectors faulty pressure regulator bad fuel filter or semi bad fuel pump... you can test the fuel pump pressure by putting a pressure gague on the fuel line befor the filter turn on the ignition and let the pump cycle... then check the pressure... i dont know what stock fuel pressure should be but im sure your fsm tells you... if the pump is low on pressure it could be something as simple as the sock in the tank being dirty or it could mean you need a new pump... i would assume that the ecu would drop a code if there was a bad injector but i know how they work at times... and short of replacing the fpr i dont know how to test that... i would start at the beginning - fuel pump and go from there... one question did you check your o2 sensor???
02-25-2005, 06:26 AM
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so would I need ALL 3?!
OXYGEN SENSOR, Front, To 10/94 1995 $57.98
Electrical - Powertrain control - Oxygen sensor
OXYGEN SENSOR, Front, From 10/94 1995 $111.32
Electrical - Powertrain control - Oxygen sensor
OXYGEN SENSOR, Rear 1995 $106.64
Electrical - Powertrain control - Oxygen sensor
thats like $300...
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...25&model=240sx
if an o2 sensor is starting to crap out on me, what should it look like?
OXYGEN SENSOR, Front, To 10/94 1995 $57.98
Electrical - Powertrain control - Oxygen sensor
OXYGEN SENSOR, Front, From 10/94 1995 $111.32
Electrical - Powertrain control - Oxygen sensor
OXYGEN SENSOR, Rear 1995 $106.64
Electrical - Powertrain control - Oxygen sensor
thats like $300...
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...25&model=240sx
if an o2 sensor is starting to crap out on me, what should it look like?
Last edited by 98cwitr; 02-25-2005 at 06:49 AM.
02-25-2005, 03:26 PM
#14
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Location: knoxville tn
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if you have 2 of them you only need 2... the dates are for manufacturing... if your car was made befor 10/94 you need the one for the 10/94... if it was made after you need the second one...and if you have a rear one then you need the second one...
