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07-26-2009, 10:05 PM
#61
No, the manual (aka clutch fan) is the engine cooling fan, the smaller electric one is the A/C fan...comes on when you turn on the A/C to keep the condenser cooled. You can remove the clutch fan and wire the electric to a switch or a thermostat, but if you plug any fan into the original connector, it will only come on when you turn the A/C on.
judging by the schematics, i'm positive that the original relay and a/c temp switch can be rewired to trigger the condenser fan without the compressor being on. i'd look more into it, but i'm going back to the clutch fan so i don't care to bother with it.
07-27-2009, 05:50 PM
#63
no, i don't think anything other than what is there is needed. it's just a matter of rewiring what is available. i have it all worked out in my head and it makes sense, so i'm certain it will work. there is one detail that i am not sure about however. but for the most part it's just a matter of using the temp sensor on the lower radiator hose as a negative trigger and the stock relay.
what i'm not sure about is when it kicks in, that is at what temperature the switch wire close the circuit. that's not really a problem though since such switches are sold with different ranges. i'm sure i can wire up a mock set up in now time but it's too hot out side so i probably wont.
what i'm not sure about is when it kicks in, that is at what temperature the switch wire close the circuit. that's not really a problem though since such switches are sold with different ranges. i'm sure i can wire up a mock set up in now time but it's too hot out side so i probably wont.
07-27-2009, 08:54 PM
#64
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Fairmont, West Virginia
Posts: 100
okay guys heres what i find weird then... the manual clutch fan runs 24/7 right as long as the motor is running..... well i cut my a/c belt years ago but i still have everything for the a/c to work still on my car... and now and then when i come to a stop i can actually hear the electric fan kick on..... and this is without the a/c running and the switch is off?? so owould it be worth a try to wire up a big electric fan into the stock wiring as is ... just to try it?? and see if it over heats or actually kicks on when needed??
and jr im just curious if you already have an elec fan setup then why do you want to go back to a clutch fan??
Eric
and jr im just curious if you already have an elec fan setup then why do you want to go back to a clutch fan??
Eric
07-27-2009, 09:58 PM
#65
it's not strange at all becuase the condenser fan is controlled by the thermo switch. anyways, i plan to at some point get a light weight battery and want to reduce the electrical draw on the charging system and battery as much as possible. during daytime driving there shouldn't be any problems, it's at night that there could be problems becuase of the lights, fans, stereo and anything else being powered. it's just a precaution that i'll be taking.
07-29-2009, 02:21 PM
#66
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Fairmont, West Virginia
Posts: 100
why he smaller light weight battery??? just to reduce overall weight of the vehicle?? cause your prob gaining more with heavy battery and elec fans vs manual fan and light weight battery.... just my 2 cents.... but maybe u r doing it for some other reason....
Eric
Eric
07-29-2009, 02:46 PM
#67
The clutch fan with shroud works well.. however many including myself got rid of it because it crowed the engine bay. for years i have used the stock electric fan that came on the s14 radiator and i never had heating issues even when racing.
the key is to properly wire in a relay that helps reduce current draw.. before relay i was getting about 13.5ish volts which is not really good. After relay my volts were stable at about 14.1...... that was with a pretty much stock grounding system.
the key is to properly wire in a relay that helps reduce current draw.. before relay i was getting about 13.5ish volts which is not really good. After relay my volts were stable at about 14.1...... that was with a pretty much stock grounding system.
07-29-2009, 03:00 PM
#68
it's smaller, so it's not just because it weights less, but becuase it also takes up less space while proving adequate power for all the essential electronics.
07-29-2009, 04:43 PM
#69
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Fairmont, West Virginia
Posts: 100
well then i would just relocate it in the trunk to help with weight transfer and you don't have to worry about taking up to much room.... but it is easier to have it under the hood and not having to run wires to the trunk.... which adds more weight.....
Eric
Eric
07-30-2009, 05:37 PM
#71
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Fairmont, West Virginia
Posts: 100
yeah they may not add that much but if you are concerned about weight savings then every ounce adds up......... eventually lol i want to relocate mine to the trunk to clean up my engine bay... so i can add a short ram intake and so my battery is closer to my amp..... im just to lazy.... lol
ohh and what would be the best way to wire up those fans with a relay..? i'd like to do it right the first time... thanx for info...
Eric
ohh and what would be the best way to wire up those fans with a relay..? i'd like to do it right the first time... thanx for info...
Eric
07-30-2009, 09:35 PM
#72
Rims, rotors, and brake calipers are a good way of reducing weight.
I picked up 300z 1990 aluminum 4 pot calipers, with the 26mm thick rotor over the 30mm rotor. Overall I save about 6LB.s per rotor/brake combo over the q45 2 pot caliper and rotor set up. Thats a total of 12LB.s in reduction for the front of teh chassis.
Smaller radial rims help out too.
I picked up 300z 1990 aluminum 4 pot calipers, with the 26mm thick rotor over the 30mm rotor. Overall I save about 6LB.s per rotor/brake combo over the q45 2 pot caliper and rotor set up. Thats a total of 12LB.s in reduction for the front of teh chassis.
Smaller radial rims help out too.
08-18-2009, 08:22 PM
#73
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Posts: 456
don't belive the hype, all i've seen are screen shots of dynos without any information about the cars on which the kits were tested. i'm willing to bet i can clean all the electrical connections and grounding points, slap on some random copper cord and see similar gains.
what i want to see is the results of a dyno, with cheap copper wires vs rare earth or whatever they wish to call these magical element wires with gold plated terminals. i want them tested on a brand new car. what will this prove? well, if i am correct, and i'm almost certain that i am, it will prove two things.
one, additional grounding will provide a benefit, but not as mush as the aftermarket retailers will admit to. secondly, while grounding kits do provide a benefit, it's not as much on a new car which hasn't had the time for corrosion to set in on the electrical connections, diminishing it's conductivity.
so my advise is, buy the cheap ebay grounding kit or make your own. clean the grounding points and electrical connections and apply some die-electric grease on these connections.
what i want to see is the results of a dyno, with cheap copper wires vs rare earth or whatever they wish to call these magical element wires with gold plated terminals. i want them tested on a brand new car. what will this prove? well, if i am correct, and i'm almost certain that i am, it will prove two things.
one, additional grounding will provide a benefit, but not as mush as the aftermarket retailers will admit to. secondly, while grounding kits do provide a benefit, it's not as much on a new car which hasn't had the time for corrosion to set in on the electrical connections, diminishing it's conductivity.
so my advise is, buy the cheap ebay grounding kit or make your own. clean the grounding points and electrical connections and apply some die-electric grease on these connections.
Anyone have some more experience with the ground kit? I'm inclined to believe the quote above. Plus the fact that there simply isn't much to ground on a 240sx (or any older car for that matter) like there is in newer cars where just about everything is electronically controlled.
08-18-2009, 09:14 PM
#74
even if a company were to put out a sheet with the difference in hp between an engine with ground wires and then without, i wouldn't believe it. just the difference in ambient temperature can show hp gains, it's said that numbers don't lie, but i say that they can be manipulated. your best bet would be to get some decent quality primary wire from a car audio place and make your our ground wires.