Do It Your Self Head Porting!
09-12-2005, 01:53 PM
#1
Do It Your Self Head Porting!
Whats up guys getting ready for another engine build, but I wanted to do all performance features myself so that I wouldn't have to open it up later at a shop. There is a kit on do it yurself head porting. I thought you guys might be interested, check it out.
http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.shtm
http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.shtm
Last edited by BigVinnie; 09-12-2005 at 02:26 PM.
09-13-2005, 05:23 PM
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: ORLANDO, FL
Posts: 55
Great find BigV. Another fine post. A very realistic weekend project than can net easily 10-20 horses in our KA's. There is also a engine block prep d.i.y. which has some suggestions about deburring and polishing the crank. Lots of good info.
09-13-2005, 05:32 PM
#6
I also like how they simplified polishing of the head as well. It stated that it makes power by not allowing carbon to build up and make hot spots, making hot spots would decrease power, and inevetably cause (knock and ping). Not alot of shops do polishing anymore, I wonder why? It is a really simple task that can allow 5 more donkeys to your engine.
Due to the USDM casting of the KAE and DE heads the flow rate isn't as good as it could be. Refining the ports with porting, and polishing of the dome can allow for another 5~10donkeys.
Just remember to much porting is bad, it can decrease swirl, which ineffectively decreases atomization of air to fuel which would also decrease HP.
Due to the USDM casting of the KAE and DE heads the flow rate isn't as good as it could be. Refining the ports with porting, and polishing of the dome can allow for another 5~10donkeys.
Just remember to much porting is bad, it can decrease swirl, which ineffectively decreases atomization of air to fuel which would also decrease HP.
09-25-2005, 11:11 AM
#8
Well I thought that I should add these pics to the head porting so that you can get a better visualization of what needs to be done. This pic was taken out of the 200sx club. The owner decided to go KA24det instead of SR...
As you can see the KA needs head porting done. People claim that per bolt on the SR makes more power, probably due to the fact that the SR is less anemic and has larger porting done from it's casting. The KAde head just needs a little refining.
The exhaust I wouldn't port at all it is already larger than it needs to be. If the ports are enlarged to much it could probably cause problems with scavaging and head porting it could probably decrease HP numbers by decreasing the velocity in exhaust flow. I would leave it the way it is, unless a shop does it and you increase your injection to something like 370cc injection for N/A. If going F/I I would leave the ports stock, it may help increase spooling time, and increase velocity through the turbine.
As you can see the KA needs head porting done. People claim that per bolt on the SR makes more power, probably due to the fact that the SR is less anemic and has larger porting done from it's casting. The KAde head just needs a little refining.
The exhaust I wouldn't port at all it is already larger than it needs to be. If the ports are enlarged to much it could probably cause problems with scavaging and head porting it could probably decrease HP numbers by decreasing the velocity in exhaust flow. I would leave it the way it is, unless a shop does it and you increase your injection to something like 370cc injection for N/A. If going F/I I would leave the ports stock, it may help increase spooling time, and increase velocity through the turbine.
09-27-2005, 05:44 AM
#9
This guy just did head porting and polishing in the Nico forums...
See it is easier than you think. http://forums.********.com/zerothread?id=128396
See it is easier than you think. http://forums.********.com/zerothread?id=128396
12-27-2005, 02:06 PM
#11
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Pa, USA
Posts: 5
Originally posted by Joel SX
I just bough the kit, and a new dremel. I'll be using it on my RB25. I'll dyno it first, then I'll use it and see how much gain I get. I hope I don't mest it up
I just bough the kit, and a new dremel. I'll be using it on my RB25. I'll dyno it first, then I'll use it and see how much gain I get. I hope I don't mest it up
"The components in these kits are designed for mounting in a die grinder having a maximum speed of 18,000-20,000 rpm and a 1/4-in. diameter collet or "chuck." Do not use an 1/8-inch collet grinder of the type used in hobby or arts and crafts work."
The Dremel collet capacity is 1/32" to 1/8", isn't it? So according to this the kit is useless with a Dremel, right?
EDIT: I re-read the posted thread from the NICO forum, the one with the pics. ( http://forums.********.com/zerothread?id=128396 ) It says he used the cordless dremel with "a carbide steel cutter & a aluminum dioxide grinding stone. Then polished the ports with 80 & 120 grit cartridge rolls from a standard abrasives porting kit." So I understand the 'carbide' (sp?) steel cutter and aluminum dioxide grinding stone, but I thought the 80 & 120 grit cartridges from the SA porting kit (as I said before) didn't fit the Dremel. Can anyone explain this to me?
EDIT #2: Wow, I think I just answered my own question, the guy on NICO used cartridge rolls bought separately (not in the kit) from Standard Abrasives from here, right? http://www.sa-motorsports.com/cat/p21.htm But no, he couldn't have..... they are still 1/4", so they don't fit they Dremel. I'm getting confused, someone explain it to me.
Last edited by fastBackInblack; 12-27-2005 at 02:45 PM.
12-27-2005, 05:16 PM
#12
Originally posted by fastBackInblack
EDIT #2: Wow, I think I just answered my own question, the guy on NICO used cartridge rolls bought separately (not in the kit) from Standard Abrasives from here, right? http://www.sa-motorsports.com/cat/p21.htm But no, he couldn't have..... they are still 1/4", so they don't fit they Dremel. I'm getting confused, someone explain it to me.
EDIT #2: Wow, I think I just answered my own question, the guy on NICO used cartridge rolls bought separately (not in the kit) from Standard Abrasives from here, right? http://www.sa-motorsports.com/cat/p21.htm But no, he couldn't have..... they are still 1/4", so they don't fit they Dremel. I'm getting confused, someone explain it to me.
For the intake side you will want to use 40~60grit you will want the metal ruff so air and fuel can fuse and atomize better. The exhaust side will want a fine finish if you can get 200~400grit aluminum oxide.
I wouldn't recomend using the cordless dremel, save up another 20 and get the larger dremel that will carry up to a 1/4inch chuck, craftsman also makes a version of the roto zip that does just as good of job.
02-10-2006, 07:06 PM
#14
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: 714 california WEsTMinSter
Posts: 228
dude if u do it your self u might not get it right the first time!! serious mang ive been talking to my co worker who works on heads all day(building heads, port &polishing, ect) and he does every thing but if u flow bench your head and see the numbers u might not be so happy with the work you've done. porting and polishing heads isnt easy at all thats why im paying him to do it right. ill take pics next week to show u guys how it turns out.
. theres more to it then just grinding and sanding.
every port has to be the exact same or better to work. those who choose do it your self i recomend to get it leak checked and double check by a person who knows what suppose to be done.
after we do the experimental head porting on my head then will decide how much the job will be worth and how much hp it will gain.
I SUGGEST NOT TO DO IT YOUR SELF UNLESS U WANT A ka that cant idle or rev correctly. its not as easy as it sounds. i thought about doing it my self but seeing how numbers matter on a flow bench its not best to do it your self unless you do know what your doing.
will keep you guys updated.
. theres more to it then just grinding and sanding.
every port has to be the exact same or better to work. those who choose do it your self i recomend to get it leak checked and double check by a person who knows what suppose to be done.
after we do the experimental head porting on my head then will decide how much the job will be worth and how much hp it will gain.
I SUGGEST NOT TO DO IT YOUR SELF UNLESS U WANT A ka that cant idle or rev correctly. its not as easy as it sounds. i thought about doing it my self but seeing how numbers matter on a flow bench its not best to do it your self unless you do know what your doing.
will keep you guys updated.
02-10-2006, 07:22 PM
#15
Actually I tend to disagree...
Although flow benching is defenitely something that should be done....... You can always take it in to a shop to get flow results. I tend to follow a pattern using a gasket, and actually measuring the diameters to make shure that they are consistent. Polishing is simple, and you just have to learn to braise the dome of the head in order to keep compression the same between each cylinder. Of course your coworker does heads and wouldn't recomend it, strictly because those are his politics and he gets paid to do head work.......
Although flow benching is defenitely something that should be done....... You can always take it in to a shop to get flow results. I tend to follow a pattern using a gasket, and actually measuring the diameters to make shure that they are consistent. Polishing is simple, and you just have to learn to braise the dome of the head in order to keep compression the same between each cylinder. Of course your coworker does heads and wouldn't recomend it, strictly because those are his politics and he gets paid to do head work.......
