I took some pictures of the subframe collars install that I did yesterday.

Tools needed:
Jackstands
Jack-to stabilize/lower and raise the differential
Socket wrench with extension for the forward subframe bushings
Socket extension
15mm socket
Breaker bar
Pry bar
Gloves

Start off by jacking up your car and placing stands in the appropriate places.

Got them in yesterday morning from JGYCustoms.

With the exeption of the springs/struts this starts the beginning of my rear suspension changes.

Gonna do a lot of cleaning back here, there's grime and grease buildup from the differential everywhere. Note the cheapy ebay lower control arm bar. I got the spherical bearing bar to replace it with. You can see the subframe bushing also.

Here's the subframe bushing on the forward section of the subframe.

15mm socket takes the bottom collar off. I needed a breaker bar to break these off also. 15mm socket takes off both nuts front and rear by the way.

Breaker bar.

This shows where I used the jack to hold up the differential. You'll probably need to lower the jack slightly to slide the top collars in. I also had to use a prybar to wedge the passenger side down slightly.

Prybar.

Slide the top collar in.

Like so.

Done on the rearest subframe collars. Torque to 72-87ft.lbs.

Done on the forward subframe collars. Torque to 72-87ft.lbs.

Heres's the bottom collars for the subframe collars.







Finished. Some Purple Power and a couple more scrub sessions and I'll have this thing cleaned up pretty good by the time I install the other parts.

 

this was a pretty cool install, gives good references to those planning on installing the C collars

 

Excellent pics and just what I needed for the first addition.

Since I don't have a service manual yet, what is the tightening torque for the front and rear bolts?

 

Just to clear up any confusion, I put this here due to the fact we already have one in the "How To" section.

 

Torque the collar nuts to 80 ft. lbs and the bracket bolts to 20 ft. lbs...didn't notice that I missed that, thanks!

 

yea i noticed that to. i don't know if he knows he can contact a mod and have one of us move it for him

 

Why did you decide to go with the aluminum spacers instead of the poly spacers? Is this car going to be just for track use?

 

I didn't really consider the polyurethane spacers until after I installed the aluminum spacers and heard the extra noise. No track use just DD and auto-X.

 

Yeah I generally use my car for everything from track to street so I decided to go with the peak performance polyurethane subframe spacer bushing's. Makes the sub chassis just as stiff as the aluminum IMO, with no noise or serious vibration.

 

i just put mine in..... man.. should have done this sooner.. cant wait until my drift event.

i did a few j turns... the rear felt so good.

 

wow ive had the aluminum spacers in both my s14 and never got noise from them lol but hell yea you get used to them after a while then you go drive a stock 240 and it feels like the rear end is made of jello or honda lmao

 

well i have an welded diff and it already emitted and light tone... now the spacers act as an amplifier.

 

ummm...i have a question about the 15mm socket...i never used one when I did mine. I lifted the car up grabbed my 1/2'' gun, a 14mm socket, a 3" extension, and a 17mm deep. I undid the 4 14mm bolts that hold the brackets to the body for the front bushings. Then I removed the 4 17mm nuts holding the entire subframe to the car, let it dangle, slid the spacers in, zapped everything back together with the gun. In the shop and out in 5 minutes! No more noise

 

yea its a 17mm for the mounts and 12mm for the small bolts... however its not uncommon for the head size to vary on some cars... for example on tie rods, it could be an 17 or 19 mm depending on who makes the tie end,.

 

Another excellent write-up. Thanks positron!