socaly4life

I just bout a 90' HBS13 5 speed. The car ran great until it had some problems starting. The engine will turn over but it doesn't fire up. After about a couple of tries trying to start, it turns on and idles at about 250 rpms. I give it a little gas and it barely responds. After, it smells like the car is running rich. After everything clears, it idles nice but once I take off it has no response. I have to rev it up high in order for the car to have enough power it accelerate. What should I do about this. I set the timing at 15 degree BTDC and check the spark pulgs, cap and rotor but their fine. What else should I check or do?

JeromeS13

Check the ECU for codes and check the voltage from your MAF. It could be MAF or distributor related...

Project Cheap13

It could also be the old s*** injectors. It's quite common.

socaly4life

Well, the car was still running like crap today. I filled it up today and I realized that the last time I filled it up, it put in 87 octane. This time I put it 92 and its running a lot better but it still sputters sometimes. I guess I have to let the crapy gas run through. I'm also thinking of putting in a bottle of that fuel injector cleaner and change the fuel filter. As for the ECU, the light comes on ever so often and then shuts off after a 10-15 seconds, should I still do a diagnostic on it? Oh, and what it be idea changing the fuel refulator?

JeromeS13

Yes, still check the ECU for codes. And, wtf does that last sentence mean?

socaly4life

Sorry about that. My hands aren't fast enough to keep up with my head. I meant if it would be a good idea changing the fuel regulator.

4984 5fsdskfvjdsntr4

I'd check the codes first and change the fuel filter. Get a 300zx filter. Have you tried the wigle test(move wires and see if anything happens) Also you could check your grounds. If you have an Ohm meter its easy.

socaly4life

Well I pretty much checked all the wires and nothing is disconnected nor any vaccum hoses.
I was wondering how do you do a diagnostic on a 90 240? And where is the ECU located? And is there a website or post that tells me the meaning of the codes?
Las question, why should I use a 300zx filter?

Sorry about all the questions...NUBE

JeromeS13

First of all, just because it appears that all the wires are connected, that doesn't mean they're working properly.

Second, search. We are not here to HAND you everthing on a platter. The search function on this website as well as the internet in general will provide you with MORE than adequate information regarding those questions....

socaly4life

Damn... Sorry I asked.

Hollowpoint

The ecu is on the right side under glove compartment.

socaly4life

Thanks. Well I did a "search" and it gave me the idea of replacing the O2 sensor. I will also replace the fuel filter and see what happens. Thanks....

socaly4life

While doing a search I also heard that the MAFS might be clogged or something. So I disconnected mine. When I started the car it turned on right away and would respond right away when I gave it gas but only to 2500 rpms cause as I read, the ECU doesnt let the car rev anymore. But as soon as I connected it again the car ran like crap and would no response, ( it would almost stall).

They said to clean it mut the damn thing doesnt look dirty in any way. Does the mean I have to replace the MAFS or what????

Thanks in advance

socaly4life

Somebody please help, the car is running worse! Should I change the MAFS?

lionel

at first i thought about changing mafs cuz my car wouldnt rev past 2.5k, everyone told me it was mafs. and i have the same exact car as you. (it died blown motor 1 week later, haha) anyways, injector cleaner will help. project c heap s13 is probably right and i'd second him on that ****ty injectors. and also ifyou love that hatch plan on doin a swap. hahahaha, from your complaints your engine will be dead in no time.