ActionKamen

You know Cowboy I over looked this post of yours. When I took my car to the "stealership" about a week ago. And when they finished checking out the car I was told the Crank postition sensor was probably the reason my cars idle was so funky. But of course they wanted to jack the car up and pull out the tranny to fully understand what the problem was.

And of course they wanted ALL my money just to look at it.

BigVinnie

iTrader: (2)

My FSM for the 91-94 s13 says it is 11, it also says that it is what controls the ignition, it is found in the rotor of the distributor. I'm thinkin you guys are thinking of the angle CRANK sensor, not the "CPKS".

CowboyTurbo

sry, I finally got my @$$ a job so I've been at work this whole time. But I think Big Vinnie is right... and I've just found yet another convoluted part of the S14 FSM. Apparently Nissan or whoever translated the FSM made a mix-up because the Crankshaft Position Sensor that Big V is talking about (the one in the distributor) has been re-named and is listed under "Crank Angle Sensor" in the '95 FSM and vice-versa. I thought something sounded fishy... at any rate, it is my crank angle sensor that I ripped out by accident. now does THAT have anything to do with my oxygen sensor going bad? btw this 95 FSM is horrible, it lists different amts. of fluid for the same parts of the car and diagrams and pictures that just have things in the wrong place. I can't remember the code that my ecu flashed me, haven't had time to even drive my car... ill get around to it soon enuff..

BigVinnie

iTrader: (2)

Well if you need a correct FSM I can email you my 91-94FSM.
The only difference between OBD 1 and OBD2 was the TPS sensor found on the TB, and the additional O2 sensor found after the CAT. Other than that the smog parts didn't change and niether did the engines, accept for the compression, cams, and fuel dump.

BigVinnie

iTrader: (2)

If your O2 sensor went bad it is probably the platinum coating on the O2 that is no longer usable, that means that the o2 is sending higher voltage output than what needs to be displayed.
For example: if the o2 sensor was to work properlly it should read exactly 1volt at idle to 0volts at the TPS, and I think 1.2 volts at the MAF. You can see this type off display and it's functions using a diagnostic program called launch, "which I used the other day to find out that my speed sensor, and EGR valve and canister valve solinoid are both bad".
Lets say the o2 is bad and youre ecu is reading lets say 1.7volts at idle from the o2. This will fool the ecu to think that the mixture is getting dumped into proportion to the amount of air that passes through the maf, to the opening at the TB. Your ecu will assume to dump more fuel having it run richer, rather than leaner.
Now your ecu is trying to compensate the richer fuel/air by slightly shifty the ttp, lets say at correct idle it is at 20BTDC @ 885RPM.
The richer mixture may slightly shift your TTP at idle at lets say 21btdc @ 900RPM as you accelerate the BTDC will double into the 40 to 43BTDC this can infact cause a faulty misfire.

Your crank angle sensor I believe is just a monitoring device for the ECU "the eye's and ears of the ECU". CKPS found in the distributor works in conjunction with the crank angle sensor to calibrate the correct ignition for each cylinder, even though the CKPS is the main reason for ignition the calibration can be slightly off without the crank angle sensor also causing misfire issues. This is because the ecu is "BLINDLY" making calculations. Hopefully those analogy's make a little bit of sence.

Honestly the 2 sensors should just be replaced.

As for me I havent done the speed governor removal for several reasons. The speed sensors for 4th and 5th determine your fuel dump to rate of speed. This in a way works as a fuel economical resource actually conserving fuel in the 4th and 5th gears. Plus since it sends a direct signal to my digital hud, it wouldn't show my rate of speed in the display.
Every sensor to the Nissan engine and transmission serves a purpose. Removal of one of these functions will either FUC% with your fuel dumping, or your AIR throttle responce.
I leave everything the way it is and buy piggy back items such as the SAFC, and the HKS rev speed limiter remover, hence leaving my sensors in place and sending the same signal "being modified through the piggy backs" as if it were stock. I do not agree with the removal of any smog emissions and its sensors , nore do I agree with the speed limiter bypass which actually FUC&s with your performance and fuel economy. People in the forums really need to read the FSM and what each individual sensor really does, but like they say ignorance is blissfull to some, but not me.

CowboyTurbo

ok, this part that Big V says is pretty much what I thought and needed confirmed, basically imma just have to replace the two sensors when I have the time and all should be well. I'm a bit weary of doing it right now though because I've been meaning to re-gasket my front seal which is leaking oil and I figured if I was going to pull the tranny I might as well take care of THAT problem too (yes I know they are on complete opposite sections of the engine) but all that is going to require a full weekend's worth of work with MY mech. skills and I just don't have any time to do it at the moment... will let you guys know when it's done.

BigVinnie

iTrader: (2)

Well if you might need a new timing chain assembly can't you just do it then?

CowboyTurbo

wait, do what exactly? I was trying to say that I'm putting off ALL work on my car until I have the time because I have so much stuff to fix~ the two sensors and the front seal leak. I don't think I need a new timing chain assembly (correct me if I'm wrong), just gotta take off the front cover and re-gasket it, right? Wikd240 had said that the simplest way to go about that would either be to pull the engine out or drop the suspension~ either way a crapload of work with my not so superstar skills. so yeah I'm basically waiting until I get all the parts and a long weekend rolls around when I'll have the time to hopefully fix it all up.

BigVinnie

iTrader: (2)

In my opinion if the front seal goes, work to the front hasn't been done in a while or maybe never. Personally I would just get your engine in tip top condition. But thats just me, I usually would just replace all seals and timing assembly at the same time, since it's open for it. Timing chains, seals, and gaskets are cheap any way, it just matters on how much time you have. Just speaking from my own personal experience but if you find it unecessary, well whatever.

But I'm betting if the front seal is leaking, then the timing chain may have never been replaced. A stretched timing chain can jump off of the teeth or move slightly causing timing issues as well, it can cause ignition problems, if the cams shift one degree, it is dumping at a different time than when it is suppose to.

ActionKamen

Big up to Big V on the info!

I replacing my cap and rotor and o2 sensors this week. My parts should be in tomorrow. I hope everything works out on your car Cowboy!

CowboyTurbo

Thanks Action

I will keep all this in mind and try to look things over thoroughly when I do get around to pulling the engine...

CowboyTurbo

I talked to a guy today who's been a Nissan Master Technician for the last 30 years~ I mentioned to him my problem with the crank angle sensor and he said that I definitely need to replace it~ it is fockin' up the air/fuel going into the car and is making it all run like ****... he also said that the front seal would be about a 14 hour job seeing as the oil pan has to come off one way or another to fix it...

BigVinnie

iTrader: (2)

That sounds about right, sorry to hear the bad news bro.
Sorry you don't live in the bay area I would knock it ot in under 10 hours.
Shiat I would just use a cherry picker and pull the whole engine....
It speeds up the work sooooo much faster once it is out of the engine bay.
Good luck player....

CowboyTurbo

speaking of which, what's a good price for a cherry picker?

BigVinnie

iTrader: (2)

It depends....
The brand of cherry picker will vary in price a good one should cost about $700 with taxes and everything covered.
I've also seen them used on craigs list for as cheap as $200.