HELP - Over Heating!!!
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 112
From: Hollywood, AL
HELP - Over Heating!!!
I've drained & flushed my radiator, & replaced upper & lower hoses. Flilled with new coolent & water wetter. Dag nab thing is still over heating!
I have an aftermarket temp gauge...(FYI).
What the hech is wrong? I've jack the car up when filling it with new fluids ect...ahhhhhhh. The temp also seems to go up, and then (after a while, go down). Do I have a plug (mineral deposit posit build up) in my raditior?
HELP!!!! PLEASE.......mad THANX!
I have an aftermarket temp gauge...(FYI).
What the hech is wrong? I've jack the car up when filling it with new fluids ect...ahhhhhhh. The temp also seems to go up, and then (after a while, go down). Do I have a plug (mineral deposit posit build up) in my raditior?
HELP!!!! PLEASE.......mad THANX!
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 42
From: Fremont, CA
Did you bleed it after you filled it up?
[bleeder screw is located right after the upper radiator hose is connected to, on the engine side]
after u bleed the coolant for air bubbles, turn ur heater on (don't turn the car on yet) and switch the climate control so ur using the heater core instead of having the heat come from the engine bay. (hard to explain that part, but there's a button on ur climate control that has a pix of car and arrows representing circulation inside the car). then keep the radiator cap off and turn on ur car, have it cycle through, at the same time ur able to check if the coolant begins to make a "swirling effect" meaning ur waterpump is fine. then put the cap back on before the engine gets warm enough to start spitting out hot coolant. finally keep the car on to have it cycle through some more, and keep an eye out on the temp gauge. this should fix that problem, assuming that ur water pump in good shape. hope this helps.
[bleeder screw is located right after the upper radiator hose is connected to, on the engine side]
after u bleed the coolant for air bubbles, turn ur heater on (don't turn the car on yet) and switch the climate control so ur using the heater core instead of having the heat come from the engine bay. (hard to explain that part, but there's a button on ur climate control that has a pix of car and arrows representing circulation inside the car). then keep the radiator cap off and turn on ur car, have it cycle through, at the same time ur able to check if the coolant begins to make a "swirling effect" meaning ur waterpump is fine. then put the cap back on before the engine gets warm enough to start spitting out hot coolant. finally keep the car on to have it cycle through some more, and keep an eye out on the temp gauge. this should fix that problem, assuming that ur water pump in good shape. hope this helps.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 112
From: Hollywood, AL
I'll give it a try. I was think'n that the dude that had the car before me used tape water instead of distilled water, causing a mineral build up so where in the radiator. I know the themostate is working cause it's blowing hot air...
Thanx for the advice...much appericated!
Thanx for the advice...much appericated!
Contributing Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 593
From: arlington texas
Did you bleed it after you filled it up?
[bleeder screw is located right after the upper radiator hose is connected to, on the engine side]
after u bleed the coolant for air bubbles, turn ur heater on (don't turn the car on yet) and switch the climate control so ur using the heater core instead of having the heat come from the engine bay. (hard to explain that part, but there's a button on ur climate control that has a pix of car and arrows representing circulation inside the car). then keep the radiator cap off and turn on ur car, have it cycle through, at the same time ur able to check if the coolant begins to make a "swirling effect" meaning ur waterpump is fine. then put the cap back on before the engine gets warm enough to start spitting out hot coolant. finally keep the car on to have it cycle through some more, and keep an eye out on the temp gauge. this should fix that problem, assuming that ur water pump in good shape. hope this helps.
[bleeder screw is located right after the upper radiator hose is connected to, on the engine side]
after u bleed the coolant for air bubbles, turn ur heater on (don't turn the car on yet) and switch the climate control so ur using the heater core instead of having the heat come from the engine bay. (hard to explain that part, but there's a button on ur climate control that has a pix of car and arrows representing circulation inside the car). then keep the radiator cap off and turn on ur car, have it cycle through, at the same time ur able to check if the coolant begins to make a "swirling effect" meaning ur waterpump is fine. then put the cap back on before the engine gets warm enough to start spitting out hot coolant. finally keep the car on to have it cycle through some more, and keep an eye out on the temp gauge. this should fix that problem, assuming that ur water pump in good shape. hope this helps.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 112
From: Hollywood, AL
Last time I did NOT fully remove the bleed screw...only losened it enough to drain the coolant. This time it's coming off! Thanx you guys are GREAT, as Tony the Tiger would say...LOL! 
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post