i have a 91 ka motor and am doing alot to the lower end---wanted to do a p&p job on the head but NOONE in new orleans does it...any help from you guys that have extrude honed it themselves---a how to--specs--how much you took off

 

You cannot extrude hone a cyl head yourself. It need sto be shiiped out & done professionally.
As for porting & polishing. You really cannot do that yourself either.
Most people gasket match. As porting & polishing requires a flow bench.
One important thing yo uhave to remember is you DO NOT polish the intake side of the head/ intake, because it doesn tlet the fuel atomize. It will puddle in the intake.
You best bet is to just tak eit to a machine shop & have them gasket match it.

 

could you explain by gasket match what exactly do you mean.....there are no machine shops in the new orleans are that will even touch this head--the one call i did get said they could ship it out, it will take 3-4 weeks and runs 875 for the head and 100 for the intake--thats with me sending him a stripped head too....i know performance is not cheap---we are in about 2500 now---but i think 975 for the work is a little high

 

so there is no way to open up the flow coming into the head myself???what are the benefits of gasket matching???? jsut doesnt make sense to do all of this work and you still have the same amount of air and fuel delivered to the cylinders..i know about bigger injectors and upgraded maf but is there anything you can do about the air flow??? other than the famous cold air intake?

 

Gasket matching means exactly that. gasket matching. You port to the size of the gasket.
As for doing it yourself. Sure you can. But when it comes to porting it snt how much you remove. It's what you remove & where. You just cant start porting & expect big results. What happens if you get to close to a water jacket, ect.. You can also impeade the flow by not doing it right.
gasket matching yo ujust port out to the size of the gasket & go about an 1" in.
$875 fo rthe head sounds right for a PROPER port & polish( you need flowbench time). But they quoted you $100 to extrude hone?Considering it's abotu $800 to extrude hone the 2 manifolds( about $400 each) I would JUMP on it for $100.

Which machine shop did you take it to?

Take it to Gulf Engineering over on Hill st. in Jefferson & see what they say.

 

i called simplex, shreve, darr engine, sonic boom, southland performance in houma....are you from n.o.?...and gulf engineering...i looked in the phone book but there are about 6 gulf engineering companies.....the reason i thought 875 was high was shreve told me about 2 weeks ago it would be like 250 for port and polish on the head only..but this morning we called to drop it off and the guy that does it quit last friday........i jsut wanted to clean the head up to flow better--also future turbo project..but now i am wondering if it is worth it

 

Not from there, but I know alot about everywhere
Any competent machine shop can gasket match for you. It is normaly around $80-$100.
Now i'm going to get a bit technical...
You can mill the head about .020 to bump up the comp a bit & have a better comp ratio( slim, very slim though).
But that wont affect much if your piston heigh is too much( from piston to deck height). You normally want that to be Zero( with flat top pistons) A good quench is about .040.
How you get your quench is put the #1 on TRUE TDC( you achieve this by measuring with a dial indicator). Once it's on TDC you measure ( with the indicator) how far down in the cyl the piston is. Then you add the thickness of the head gasket. Those 2 numbers give you the guench. If it is above .050 then you have problems. Dont try to performance the motor if it is that bad. You will need to mill the deck to get ZERO piston height.
So. Once you measure these things. IF they are with the .040 then you can do a gasket match, ect.. If not you will be wasting cash. Because it will give you absolutely NO benefit.

 

are you talking about the head gasket matching or the intake????? the head has already been decked down to the max it can be...the only clearance is going to be the cometic head gasket that is i think .04 thick or something like that...we also went .40 over on the cylinders--wiseco 9.1 to 1 compression pistons---new crank and rods--head reworked with the angle valve job---thats why we would like to get the heads opened up

 

If you are building it for performance, a "something like that" comment wont cut it. If you dont know what your engine is built to, then I cant really give you a recommendation on what to do.
You dont "deck" a head. You mill a head. You deck the block. There is no "maxium" so to speak, when milling a head.
If it is milled "to the max" what is the volume of your cumbustion chambers? What is the final compression ratio?
what is your quench area?
If they did all this work you should know.
Give me the figures & i'll le tyou knwo the best course of action with the intake & head.
As fo rthe gasket matching I was refering to the intake/head/exhaust.

Why build a performance engine if you dont know these things? This is all standard knowledge you HAVE to know in order to build a proper engine.
Saying weisco this, cometic that.. means nothing to me if you dont know what a gasket match is.
Sorry to be so harsh, but it's the truth.

 

im sorry i dont know the exact specs...i brought it to the machine shop and told them what i wanted...as for the head..sorry i used the wrong terminology but the block has been decked and the head has been milled.down to 0.0040...by "to the max" i meant the maximum they could go to still have some clearance with the head gasket....the head gasket clearance is .040..the only reason i mentioned the names of the pistons is maybe you would know the specs on the products yourself..not to brag on what parts i bought....the pistons are .040 over and on a stock block and head are 9-1 comp ratio..i havent asked the shop what the final compression will be after the work...i am still waiting on the pistons so i cant measure the quench...im stuck at the moment waiting on parts so i figured i would try to get the head work done while i am waiting...i didnt know what you meant by gasket match because in the same reply you started talking about milling the head..i have never heard of that terminology..sorry...i just asked for some help so please dont get cocky because i pronounce something wrong

 

I am in no way being cocky. I'm telling you the truth. If you cant handle it, then so be it. If you want to learn, then read on. If you want to get an attitude & have a f**ked up engine then dont read on.

If you dont know these things, how do you know the one building the engine is telling you the truth?
Because as you stated. "the block has been decked". Well that already tells me it isnt done right. You cant properly deck the block to ZERO without even having the parts. If he did deck it. Did he measure the height before hand?
As for the heads being a "9.0:1 ratio"...how so? You dont measure them by ratio. You measure them by CC size. which has an effect on the compression ratio. You need to know the VOLUME of the combustion chamber, in order to know the final compresion ratio.
You also cant( well you can but ot wont be done properly) mill the heads without knowing the piston deck height first.
As for the head gasket thickness being at .040 you should have a ZERO piston deck height with that then & if he mlled the head to much, you wil more than likely have valve to piston contact.
As for the specs on the piston. That doesnt matter one bit. Because all blocks are machined differently. There can be a .020 height difference from one block to the next. I've seen so much as a .060 difference.

As for my last responce. I was trying to tell you. That if the engine doesnt come into the .040-.050 quench range. Then it would be worthless to spend money on head work. Because you need to be able to properly burn more fuel before you add it.
Doing this( getting the proper quench area) is detrimental in getting the most performance out of your engine. The machine work is cheap & NESSESSARY, when trying to build a high performance engine.
If you want to make power you have to pay & do it right. If you do you will have a very reliable engine that makes great power.

 

you don't want a quench area above .050 because it will inhibit combustion, correct? too cold, right?