Joel SX

The other day I was driving in the highway, and this guy wanted to race me in a v6 eclipse. Me and my crazy mind started to it, and since I removed the governor I got ahead. But then Something inexplicable happened. I heard what appeared to be a clicking sound, but very very quick. And I started to loose power. So I left of the floor the accelerator and the engine light came on, and it shut off. So I kept cruising for like 1 mile to the next exit and pushed into a parking spot. As I tried to start it, My hairs stood up as the Horrible sound came of the engine. A sound like "Clang Clang clang!!" as loud as if someone was banging on the hood of the car. It started and ran, but I was terrified of accelerating it. It ran for like 1 second and it would turn off. I checked the engine oil and no metal pieces where in it. I towed it home and took of the valve head (which let me to discover that 11 out of 12 bolts where striped). Many people said it might be the timing chain, but I saw it and it looked good, no sagging, no scratches, no bent, no cracks. I checked the gears below and nothing, same was the big, long timing chain: No damage. the ECU said code 11: Crank angle sensor, but it cannot look any newer. The gears on it look perfect, and it rotates freely. My only concern is that since a rod is shot( or 2 or 3?), it might not push the crank shaft The right way, and it falls behind, or speeds up, giving the ECU bad readings on the sensor.


I've searched for this:
Crank angle sensor, position sensor, rods, broken rod, shot rod, pictures of the angle sensor, I've seen my Alldatadiy.com database, my electronic repair manual cd, and my FSM, but I Can't find the F**kign sensor view. And all the info here doesn't specify about how to tell if your rods are shot. I'm taking the bottom oil gasket tomorrow or prolly on Thursday (2 days from now). Now I know my engine, top to bottom, right to left. I research everything, and search before I post ( I searched for 2 1/2 hours before finding nothing), and I do ALL the work in my car, no mechanic is doing anything unless I can't do it (like balancing and aligning the tires, or welding since I don't have a welder) and even then I'm watching every move they make. So please guys, any suggestions on what it is

Also, If you guys can estimate repairs, how much is a rod? what else should I buy (rod bearings, top piston bearing, crankshaft, crankshaft bearings, new engine?)

I drive a 1993 coupe 240sx s13, and the engine has (or had since its prolly shot) 189K miles, the oil was changed about 1,500 miles ago, and I put 10w30 premium blend (1/2 synthetic and 1/2 regular) oil and fram filters, so as you can see, its well taken care of. Please help, this is my daily drive and I: Work, study in college, do voluntary work and I help kids in school, so I drive like 450 miles a week, so you can see how much of a pain in the *donkey* this is. Thanks for your help

smurphs_s13

wish i could lend a hand.. but tampa to orlando is a bit of a drive.. pull your oil pan see what you can see inside..i have a spare block with good pistons etc etc...i can get you a good hook up on some bearings and rings if need be.. i know how you feel and where your comming from .. i have somthing very similar happen to my sohc motor.. lucky i had a spare DE laying around i just threw in it.. so let me know what you see or find.. i may be wrong on this.. but if one of your crank sensors is wrong will it cause the car to run to lean/rich and detonate? causeing the banging noise you hear?

Joel SX

Good, cuz I Started to get the oil pan out today, and I haven't seen anyhtign yet (yeah i have to get like 500 things out first) and I'll see about those rods and stuff. I'll drive over thur and pick them up if I need them, thanks. It seems no one in this forum knows about rods.

smurphs_s13

its easier to get the pan out if you unbolt the motor mounts and jack up the engine its a little bit of a *****

Joel SX

A litle *****!!!!??!?! Yo I spent 4 hours getting all the suspension out and the frikign cross memeber. In one side, the bolt that holds the motor mounts striped, so I had to take the other 4 that holds it in. What I did was: I raised the car, rest it on jack stands, raised the engine trough the bellhousing, put a 2x4 piece of wood on top of the engine, tied it with rope, then removed the bottom bolts. I didn't have time to take the oil pan off, its coming of tomorrow. I figured its not gona be that expensive to repair, unless I need to replace the crankshaft

Joel SX

UPDATE: I removed the il pan and saw many metal bits (yeah, not shavings, bits!) and I discovered the Rod no.1 was moving arround up & down, left to right. so as I prepared to remove it, I noticed the nut came off by hand, shcih is the root of the problem : A loose nut let the rod bounce arround and caused it to desintegrate the bearing. Now my crankshaft and rod is gone and I need anew engine ,since its too expensive to repair it.

smurphs_s13

ive got a block i will sell you cheap.. you just need to use your oil pump if it is still good.. i just need your pistons from your old block... so if your interested let me know.. ill meet you half way or somthing.. let me know whats up...

smurphs_s13

block is all ready to go... i mean if you want i can get you a really good deal on bearings and rings if for added security.. just let me know... grnblualtydrvr3 (aim)

Joel SX

Update:
I've bough a new 95 engine and my car is 93. Its not obd2 so I can install it. Its a pain i nthe rear, I've removed so much stuff from my car. Defenetly swaping an engine is a lot of work. the guy charged me 400$ for the engine (manifold, o2 sensors, wiring, alternator and other freebies) and then he wanted to charge me 550 to install it. They sure are worth the 550. Anyways. wish me luck so that I'll start.

sularus65

Good luck Joel, I know its a *****. But you will either love your car to death after you get done, or be ready to torch for the hell of it.

smurphs_s13

Good luck, have fun with it... its not that bad.. i mean if you got an engine hoist whats the worst part? at least now that its a 95 you dont have those really gay collant lines going through the middle of the intake manifold.... Have fun with it.. and keep us posted...

Joel SX

So are the 91-94 gaskets the same as 95-99? B/c remeber the engine is the early moel obd1, and they look the same ,and its the same motor.

Joel SX

So I bought the engine from the dude at the repair shop. I looked at it and It was leaking more oil than water trough the Hover dam. I started simanteling it yesterday, and pretty much figured out that the cams in the top had run without oil for some peroid b/c they where scratched and there was a very fine mix of metal and oil i nthe botom parts of the head. I decided when I put it back, I'll use the one's in the other motor. So I remove the wiring and pipes trough the feet of oil and grease residue outside the engine... then I see the einside, the head gasket was leaking oil into the coolant, coolant into the oil, and both into the combustion chamber and outside. Big mess. So I start removign the old gasket material and all. then I start polishing the top of the pistons, which where full of carbon. Tehn I see two of the pistons are down. So I start moving the crankshaft, I notice one piston is behind.... and then IT NEVER WHENT ALL THE WAY UP!!!!!! So I say "Oh no" and feel the chills down my spine, my hairs stand up. So I keep turning it and it doesn't come down for a while, then I push it down and it does...... AHHHH!!!!! I bough a engine thants even more shot than mine!!!!!!!

Good thing I bought it with the credit card, now I'll go back and get my money.

So how about that engine block dude above?

I do feel like torching the **** out of it now.....

Joel SX

Another update: I went back to the guy and they guy was sorry. and he said he didn't know it was shot, so he ofered me his other engine, a 95 engine. the problem is: Its obd2. But I WILL install the OBD2 in my OBD1 car, and I'll make a stiky on how to. Wish me luck!!!!

phadedj

Just curious, is it a big deal putting an OBDII inside of an OBDi?