im getting tired of this crap...
#1
im getting tired of this crap...
okay, my tach keeps bouncing from around 300 up to 1200 at stop lights (or when i dont have my foot on the gas and im going relatively slow), MAINLY when it's warmed up already..
sometimes it does it when the car's cold *recently*
im tired of it, and i have to step HARD on the brake pedal and give it gas, until it stays steady at 1000 rpms...
or course, sometimes it bounces anyway, and the car shakes BAD when the tach bounces as well...
im also wasting gas like a mother f-cker...
WHAT CAN THE PROBLEM BE..?!?
im guessing timing, cause im running super rich, and it only does this at low RPMs...
of course, why would it do it mainly when the car's warmed up..?
anyone else with this problem..?
it's turned off on me before, so i dont know how much longer it'll last...
sometimes it does it when the car's cold *recently*
im tired of it, and i have to step HARD on the brake pedal and give it gas, until it stays steady at 1000 rpms...
or course, sometimes it bounces anyway, and the car shakes BAD when the tach bounces as well...
im also wasting gas like a mother f-cker...
WHAT CAN THE PROBLEM BE..?!?
im guessing timing, cause im running super rich, and it only does this at low RPMs...
of course, why would it do it mainly when the car's warmed up..?
anyone else with this problem..?
it's turned off on me before, so i dont know how much longer it'll last...
Last edited by Razo-E; 12-05-2005 at 10:18 PM.
#2
mines not running rich but when my car was at idle it would fluctuate from like 400 to 1200 and die every now and again, all i did was unplug the maf plug in, then plug it back in, and it was fine after that, its done it a few times since and i just do the same thing to fix it. maybe try that if you havnt already.
#3
well, im burning gas at a stupidly high rate, but that might not be related..
saying i should just unplug my MAF, and just plug it back in..?
how long does it last before you do it again..?
maybe i should clean it, too...
thanks
saying i should just unplug my MAF, and just plug it back in..?
how long does it last before you do it again..?
maybe i should clean it, too...
thanks
#6
My friend's 240 has the same problem. Sometimes it starts and runs fine, and sometimes it bounces around, can't find idle, and I have to keep my foot on the gas to keep it from dying. Also, if coming to a stop quickly from 75 or so, the car shuts off every time (assuming my foot is not on the gas).
Guess I'm in for some fun.
Guess I'm in for some fun.
#9
okay, it was a loose connection, it was a plug near the intake manifold..
my dad's friend (work at home mechanic) just pushed the connector together, and it's been fine since..
the gas thing still puzzles me, though..
my dad's friend (work at home mechanic) just pushed the connector together, and it's been fine since..
the gas thing still puzzles me, though..
#11
Its a normal thing for the cars to rev up when cold. Its the computer that does this to warm up the car. Also if you stop at a light and the car start to act up, like its goes down on revs and goes up again and down and up, like its jumping, then it might be a vacum leak. When the engine its a low revs, the vacum really matters b/c there's so litle air that any extra air into the A to F mixture its gona make big diferencem, so the car atcs up. Check all the lines going fro mthe MAF to the Engien manifold and other lines going out or into the manifold. My car had thsi problem for 5 months before I heard the "SSSSSssssSSSSSsssTTtt" sound. It was the vacum line from the brake booster, and it went from behind the manifold to the brake booster. After this, the smoothest idle in the world.
to check your O2 sensor: Warm up the igne to normal temperature, drive it arround for like 4 mins. then take out the single cable that comes out of the engine. While the engine its running, conect the positive of your voltmeter to the cable fro mthe O2 and the negative to a ground in the car. the car should give you From .1 to .9 volts. anythign lower than .1 its runnign ritch,anythign over .9 its runnig lean. Now if your car always gives you .086 or somethign like .56, your O2 its defenetly gone, and O2 are the major porblem when it somes to gas savings. hope that helps
to check your O2 sensor: Warm up the igne to normal temperature, drive it arround for like 4 mins. then take out the single cable that comes out of the engine. While the engine its running, conect the positive of your voltmeter to the cable fro mthe O2 and the negative to a ground in the car. the car should give you From .1 to .9 volts. anythign lower than .1 its runnign ritch,anythign over .9 its runnig lean. Now if your car always gives you .086 or somethign like .56, your O2 its defenetly gone, and O2 are the major porblem when it somes to gas savings. hope that helps
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