Intake toying... Your opinion?
 

I've been toying around with my intake for some time. Bought an ebay intake. Bought an AEM. Both good. Bout the same size and bends where about the same. I would have to say the AEM was better though.

Now I moved the battery to the drivers side of the car and cut the ebay intake to put the mafs and cone filter where the battery should be.

On the positive my butt dyno says the throttle response is better for sure. Passing people seems a little smoother too.

Have any of you tried this with positive and/or negative results?

in theory you should feel a differance... the reason for this is... the air has a shorter distance to travel so the speed of the air is not diminished as much as a longer journey... keeping the incomming air moving fast has been half of the battle in intake manifold design since the internal combustion motor was invented and modified...

case in point... get a straw put it in a soda and drink... now take the smae straw and cut it in half doing the same test... easier to suck the soda up... same with the air...

wikd you should elaborate and then give it to a mod for stickying

Mt butt felt something with my AEM intake.....Sounds cool too :thumb:

I scored a nice piece of intake piping from a friends car. He cut his CAI to make a short ram, so i inherited the piping. I'm gonna buy one of those smaller batteries and then re-route the intake to the passenger side. i already got the two big hoses sorted out, but what are the two little hoses connected to the stock piping, is it safe to plug those?

as soon as i finish my research on building my intake manifold i might do that... but as i said you should feel a little increase... any time you can increase air speed as it enters into the motor you are helping it out... now if you had a way to smooth that same air charge out as it makes the transition from surge tank to runners you would feel even more of an increase... but that means a new intake... im working on one that should do all of the above as well as out flow the stock unit... im building a home made flow bench that will help in making the manifold and so i can tune the intake runners... the result that i am looking for will drop the torque some but give me the ability to raise the horsepower...

once everything is done and the manifold is built i will should have enough information for a sticky... as well as some information about building your own or buying one of mine...

as soon as big vinnie gets back he should also have some information on this as he is building a dual intake for his ka... so hopefully befor the year is out there will be 2 intake manifolds as well as a few other parts that will help your ka run and perform as it should have from the beginning...

Attachment 29060

What are those two little hoses by the radiator hose?

I think moving the MAFS closer to the throttle body helped too. I don't know though. No money for a dyno or two to check all this out so i'm having to rely on how the car really feels in similar situations...

I did feel a little bit of an increase with the aem. Love it and the sound of it. The reasons I am trying this is i'm going to get some nismo headers and it seams like everything on that side is going to be pretty hot air wise... Plus you get the MAFS closer to the throttle body. I will post a picture or two once my batteries charge.

I am however concerned about heat as as it is set up now the radiatior hose rests on top of the aluminum short intake and heat it up real hot. Have to find a way to insulate that or drop the pipe lower and remove the battery plate. Does anyone know if the same hole is under that plate as on the drivers side? I don't want to remove it for no reason.

Pictures:

http://www.joshward.com/685intake1.jpg

This is a close up of the improvised intake. I have added metal screen wrapped around the radiatior hose to help dicipate heat.

http://www.joshward.com/685intake2.jpg

Here is where the battery now resides.

http://www.joshward.com/685intake3.jpg

An overall image.

hey have any of you guys moved your battery to the trunk before? Anybody know how people usually run the wires when they do this?

That filter looks awfly close to the body. Wont it get damaged with the movement of the engine? I hope that battery is secured well...Otherwize, Nice work :thumb:

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Fast1One
That filter looks awfly close to the body. Wont it get damaged with the movement of the engine? I hope that battery is secured well...Otherwize, Nice work :thumb: [/QUOTE


The filter is very close at this point. It hasn't moved enough (or has enough movement space) to damage it at all even through a bit of tough driving. Even with that said I do plan to take it to a machine shop and see if I can get a pipe bent with a little better angle to cut below the radiatior hose and hopefully loose about an inch in length for a better fit. And from what I can see the space does look open under the battery tray.

The battery is in there pretty good. You can't move it with your hands but If I decide to leave it this way I will put in a hole for a battery tie down clamp.

cowboy turbo the best way to run the positive battery cable is through a grommet in the passenger side wheel well... if you remove your inner fender and look back you will see the rubber plug with wires comming out of it... you can easly run a cable through there and into the car... i dont advise you run a ground cable as that can cause some electrical noise...ground the stock negative battery cable to the frame... and then make a new ground cable in the trunk...

same with you tanshin... shorten the ground cable... as long as it is grounded to the frame it will work... the extra long ground cable can cause what is known as a ground loop and give you noise that you can hear in your stereo,,, and can cause all kinds of electrical gremlins to pop up... but nice work all in all...

How do you move the MAFS to the other side? Please show pics and detail haha or do you just cut the tape thats holding the 3 wires together? are they all covered seperately through the tape like they are when they come out on the drivers side?

cut the tape

man the set up u created looks clean. why not move ur battery to the trunk?

when i was NA i did this using extra bends and it ran well

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...01_62_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...01_60_full.gif

hell yeah, i may try it too, i have two intake pipes and a couple of filters to play with.. one question, whatd you do with the drivers side fuse box? and what the hell is the big box on the pass side? both combined in one box or what?:dunno:

just move it to the side bro. its not bolted down

ive been wanting to relocate my battery for a while, and make a short ram. But ive got a Dumb question lol.

is there a point to where the intake can be to short? like just say if you connected your maf to the throttle body, and put the filter on that. No piping?

haha that would look crazy. just TB MAF Filter. haha. should try this...

there will be major problems. the maf will get incorrect readings becuase that is Too much air being drawn into the motor at that point for it to measure. the effects of that is incorrect full injection ( to much or not enough).

for example with turbo setups.. you have to have the maf about 8 inches away from turbo inlet or the car will stall etc... i had my maf hooked right to my turbo and it was horrible. once i extended the maf away from the turbo and allowed it to "breath" it was better and the engine never stalled again

aww... so how much piping do you need for it to work?

for what to work... the maf

at least 8 Inches from the Throttle body

^^^ i heard it was 14 inches?

there really isn't a set length because you need to take into consideration that not all filters are the same length. but here are some pics of what i plan on installing as soon as i get a chance.
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o...inalintake.jpg
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o.../newintake.jpg

ok thank you for answering my question, so just at least keep about 8 inches of piping. i just want the shortest possible, with out effecting anything.

I was going to try this mod but i ran into the maf sensor problem.. i was going to cut it and solder on longer wires to extend the MAF to the passenger side but i wasn't sure what diameter wire to use...? same size or a little bigger? i don't want to mess with the reading of the maf sensor picks up and there fore my car runs all crappy cause the ecu is getting wrong info... and also i have an s14 so i also have a intake temp. sensor i got modified into my stock intake tube. i would also have to extend this wire for this setup.. and with all the done i would still have to move my battery.. so i just gave up and put it all back together... maybe i'll get another weekend off to work on it. thanks for any info guys....!
Erik

use the same size wire and yes the temp sensor will need to get moved also

edit
i take that back i finaly got around to doing this and realized that the maf and air temp wires come from the lest side of the engine bay. all you need to do is take the tape off the wires and the run the 5 wires (3 for the maf 2 for the temp sensor) to the left side. retape and your done.

Thanx man i figured to use the same wire (to get the best reading) and i could prob strech the wires to reach but i am not going to even risk that i don't need to break a wire or short out on me.. and i wish i could eliminate that temp sensor like put in a resistor to make the ecu thinks its the same temp all the time... pref could or medium temp....
Erik

^^^
you could do the resister thing and be fine during the winter but for warm to hot temps it could lead to your engine knocking

well i def don't want my engine knocking its already got enough timing chain noise lol ... well i guess i'll just have to cut and splice that wire too.. thanx for the help
Erik

If you relocate in the back, I would suggest running the stock ground cable to the chassis and running a ground wire system.

Longer wire, more resistance, less voltage will flow thorugh, less power from your alternator, slow turning starters, weak spark ect.

I ran mine in the back on my drag car and ran 2 ground cables directly off of the neg side terminal, one to the trunk pan, one to the chassis. Works like a charm.