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KA not starting bought new s14 and it dont run

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KA not starting bought new s14 and it dont run

Old 11-21-2007, 04:19 PM
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KA not starting bought new s14 and it dont run

so heres the deal-
kid says he blew his more in his 95 s14. wants to sell the car rather then fix it. i know the kid knows nothing about cars at all other then filling it with gas.

i buy the car and he tells me that when he turns either direction the car dies. when the motor "blew up" he was making a left turn. sense then the car has been started once by pumping the throttle like crazy

today i get the car and start looking over the obvious things. plugs, plug wires, fuel pump, igntion fuse, ect...

he tells me that he recently had a nissan stealership (gerlad nissna in North Aurora) replace the water pump, timing chain, and timing chain guides. by the looks of the liquid gasket all over everything under the hood i would say they had the whoel front of the motor apart.

so...i checked for spark - its there
i checked fuel through the lines - its definetly there

if i turn the key and have someone move the car up and down like crazy the car almost start....its has ignition and wants to start but wont stay going

any ideas???
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Old 11-21-2007, 05:29 PM
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timing?
set the #1 cylinder to tdc and make sure the rotor in the distributer in pointing to the #1 plug wire.
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Old 11-21-2007, 05:32 PM
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i will check that tomorrow...


forgot to add.. all 4 cylinders ahve compresion..dont know the values but i put my hand over the holes with the plugs removed and it feels strong
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Old 11-21-2007, 07:53 PM
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id like to hear the problem, im looking at an s13 with the same problem
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Old 11-21-2007, 09:52 PM
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How about the other obvious things battery voltage/alternator.Clean contacts.(multimeter) Try jump starting it? Only instances where turning right/left had any impact on a car is if its exteremly low and the tire chews into the harness.
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Old 11-22-2007, 08:58 AM
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battery is fine, but i have it on a slow trickle charge to make sure. car is at normal ride hieght on the stock wheels and tires.
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Old 11-22-2007, 09:51 AM
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sounds like someone screwed up on the timing chain install might be off by a tooth or so also if they removed the distributor they might off been of by a tooth so thats where i would start
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Old 11-24-2007, 12:31 PM
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ok-
set the timing to stock. what a pain in the ***. there is only one link that is a different color to use as a timing mark. the cam gears both have a mark on them but the distributor only has one mark as well. so, my timing still might be off.

then, as i was setting it TDC i left the 1/2 rachet and socket on the crank pulley and tried starting it, well, i ripped off the trans cooler line to the radiator. so, after that stops leaking everywere i will continue to work.

i checked the ecu for stored codes and i got
Camshaft Position Sensor 11
Knock Sensor 34
Intake Air Temp Sensor 41

cleared them and now im just getting the intake air temp sensor

any other suggestions
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Old 11-24-2007, 07:26 PM
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http://www.**********/faq/
timing the distributor

Also when bolting the distributor in place center it. It be usefull to check the timing with a timing gun after warmed up.
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Old 11-24-2007, 11:30 PM
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If the timing was that screwed up it would never have ran to begin with. Maybe it's out of gas, the gas gauge is broken, and shaking the car is bringing a little fuel to the pickup in the tank.
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Old 11-25-2007, 10:57 AM
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the kid just filled the tank up the day prior to its demise. im almost thinking fuel pump now...we will see. im still working on it, minus my little mishap

KFL - link not working
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Old 11-26-2007, 07:21 PM
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the timing sprockets have one mark each like they are supposed to. thw crank pulley has 5 marks. the distributor only has one mark other then the shaft pin, and the timing chain only has one different link and its yellow.

so, which mark on the crank pulley am i supposed to line up? the FSM doesnt really have a good pic of that.
also, were is the yellow link on the timing chain supposed to be for TDC? is it supposed to be over the mating mark on the intake cam side or over the mating mark on the exhaust side
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Old 11-26-2007, 08:05 PM
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You dont need any of those marks. Take out the spark plug in cylinder #1, and get a flashlight. Look into the cylinder and have a friend bump it over to TDC (or use a wrench and turn the crank). Take off the distributor and open the dizzy and set the rotor so its aligned with the wire going to cyliner #1. Put the cap back on, put the spark plug back in, and use a timing light to set the timing after that. The car will run as long as you get the rotor gear on the right teeth, you will only have to fine tune it. Something tells me thats not your problem though.
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Old 11-27-2007, 04:58 PM
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thats what im starting to lean towards as well. i will get a chance tomorrow morning to work on it and i will let you know whats up.
Jay
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Old 11-28-2007, 07:10 PM
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sweet victory!
she starts now, but the rod knock is so bad its not even funny. so, just want to say thanks to everyone that has hepled me out on this.
now i need a ka24de to replace with
Jay
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