Need some tips on building my n/a KA24DE
08-06-2009, 11:06 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Mukilteo,WA
Posts: 6
Need some tips on building my n/a KA24DE
hey guys. so after scouring the web for info i've finally decided to build an all motor KA! it's mostly going to be used to auto-x, some light circuit racing, and fun nights out on the touge. haha i just wanted to throw out the idea i had and see if they were feasible and maybe if you guys had any tips. i guess any advice you guys have is what i'm lookin for. here's the setup i'm thinking about doin. just to clarify i'm not too worried about the costs, i just want to get stuff done right the first time kinda thing. haha thanks!
Xcessive intake manifold w/ ITB setup
*i haven't decided what ITB's to use. i've seen almost everybody just using the GSX ones but i was curious if there were other methods. also i thought this might be a better way to go then just hacking up the stock intake manifold.
Brian Crower stroker kit w/ full counterbalanced crank
*i'll probably stroke it out to 2.6L
ATI torque dampener crank pulley
* i've read this will help a bit with harmonics and letting the KA revv a bit higher since the stroker kit sucked the redline down a bit.
Built head using BC stage 2 or 3 cams, titanium valves & springs, new guides, headstuds, the whole works.
for the ECU i thinking of running with haltech. overall i've seen it performs 10x better than megasquirt.also i was going to try and run a MAP setup using the haltech since i'm switching to ITB's. any info on this would be awesome^_^
also what i was thinking of doing is running a water/meth injection system and maybe wire it to a switch. kind of like the systems made by AEM or snowe performance. i'll most likely be runnig 92 octane since i'll be DD this car as well. but when i'm at the track i'd like to flip the switch and run the meth injection at the track. i don't know if this can be done or not but it'd be awesome^_^
one other question i had was with the pistons & rods.. i don't really know which ones i should run.... so help on that would be much appreciated!
that's about all i can think of... if anybody has any other suggestions please let me know!
Xcessive intake manifold w/ ITB setup
*i haven't decided what ITB's to use. i've seen almost everybody just using the GSX ones but i was curious if there were other methods. also i thought this might be a better way to go then just hacking up the stock intake manifold.
Brian Crower stroker kit w/ full counterbalanced crank
*i'll probably stroke it out to 2.6L
ATI torque dampener crank pulley
* i've read this will help a bit with harmonics and letting the KA revv a bit higher since the stroker kit sucked the redline down a bit.
Built head using BC stage 2 or 3 cams, titanium valves & springs, new guides, headstuds, the whole works.
for the ECU i thinking of running with haltech. overall i've seen it performs 10x better than megasquirt.also i was going to try and run a MAP setup using the haltech since i'm switching to ITB's. any info on this would be awesome^_^
also what i was thinking of doing is running a water/meth injection system and maybe wire it to a switch. kind of like the systems made by AEM or snowe performance. i'll most likely be runnig 92 octane since i'll be DD this car as well. but when i'm at the track i'd like to flip the switch and run the meth injection at the track. i don't know if this can be done or not but it'd be awesome^_^
one other question i had was with the pistons & rods.. i don't really know which ones i should run.... so help on that would be much appreciated!
that's about all i can think of... if anybody has any other suggestions please let me know!
08-07-2009, 09:14 PM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Posts: 456
+1, haha
If you are doing autox (and I am assuming you are doing SCCA and not NASA) the mods you listed are going to put you in SM (which is going to take a lot of money and additional mods to be competitive in) not to mention just the mods you list are going to cost you $4k+. So why did you pick these mods? My advice would be if you really want to build an autox car, look over all the classing rules, decided what class you want to be in, then choose your mods based on that class.
If you are doing autox (and I am assuming you are doing SCCA and not NASA) the mods you listed are going to put you in SM (which is going to take a lot of money and additional mods to be competitive in) not to mention just the mods you list are going to cost you $4k+. So why did you pick these mods? My advice would be if you really want to build an autox car, look over all the classing rules, decided what class you want to be in, then choose your mods based on that class.
08-07-2009, 10:09 PM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Mukilteo,WA
Posts: 6
+1, haha
If you are doing autox (and I am assuming you are doing SCCA and not NASA) the mods you listed are going to put you in SM (which is going to take a lot of money and additional mods to be competitive in) not to mention just the mods you list are going to cost you $4k+. So why did you pick these mods? My advice would be if you really want to build an autox car, look over all the classing rules, decided what class you want to be in, then choose your mods based on that class.
If you are doing autox (and I am assuming you are doing SCCA and not NASA) the mods you listed are going to put you in SM (which is going to take a lot of money and additional mods to be competitive in) not to mention just the mods you list are going to cost you $4k+. So why did you pick these mods? My advice would be if you really want to build an autox car, look over all the classing rules, decided what class you want to be in, then choose your mods based on that class.
well i'm going to be running a local auto-x down in bremerton,wa. also i'm going to be using the car for more than just auto-x, and the money really isn't an issue^_^ but thanks for the tho tips man!
08-09-2009, 10:06 AM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Posts: 456
08-09-2009, 10:55 PM
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Mukilteo,WA
Posts: 6
the classes for bremerton autocross are by car type. not so much performance. haha it's wierd... but ya i'm not too concerned with classes. and also no i'm not rich. i wish, but working at the mall doesn't pay that great. lol but this build is going to take place over a pretty big time span. i'm not going to do everything all at once. so i'm doing my homework now and getting all the info i can.^_^
08-10-2009, 01:15 PM
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Mukilteo,WA
Posts: 6
beats me. haha i just know it as BSCC, bremerton sports car club. if there ends up being certain restrictions because of scca or nasa i'll just run my car in another venue.lol
really? that'd be awesome! cuz i heard that the stroker kit will limit your rpm's a bit. because you have a longer stroke now then stock. that's one of the reason i'm getting that torque dampener so i can make sure it reduces harmonics and i don't have my motor fall apart on me at 7k. haha but ya! that'd be awesome if i could hit that 8-9k range with no setbacks. thanks man
really? that'd be awesome! cuz i heard that the stroker kit will limit your rpm's a bit. because you have a longer stroke now then stock. that's one of the reason i'm getting that torque dampener so i can make sure it reduces harmonics and i don't have my motor fall apart on me at 7k. haha but ya! that'd be awesome if i could hit that 8-9k range with no setbacks. thanks man
08-11-2009, 03:26 PM
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Mukilteo,WA
Posts: 6
08-24-2009, 08:43 PM
#14
On that stroker kit you have to realize that there aren't cams designed for it. When you alter rod stroke ratio you are essentially changing cam timing, as well as cam duration, not necessarily its lift.
Personally I would get a stock stroke fully counter weighted crank and bore 1mm, (.040over) for the pistons. You will honestly have alot more fun with that and wouldn't have to worry about the increased upward piston momentum from the 2.6liter stroker kit, which would probably also need titanium retainers, and higher lift rate springs.
Personally I would get a stock stroke fully counter weighted crank and bore 1mm, (.040over) for the pistons. You will honestly have alot more fun with that and wouldn't have to worry about the increased upward piston momentum from the 2.6liter stroker kit, which would probably also need titanium retainers, and higher lift rate springs.
09-25-2009, 11:28 PM
#15
Check it out:
- I/H/E
- EGR Removal
- Electric Fans
- N60 MAF
- Lightweight flywheel (11lbs is ideal)
- Ported Intake Manifold
- Tune w/ SAFC
That should give you some great gains, and all without having to crack open your head or bottom in of the engine.
The Crank pulley is pretty expensive, and I don't believe it is significantly lighter than the stock one w/ a dampener. As far as the xcessive mani - you might be better off spending the money on what I posted above - if you are looking at some decent n/a mods. I have pretty much everything i mentioned here - I also have a ported TB, lightweight driveshaft... dyno will be coming soon.
You can get everything I posted here for probably under $2,000... including a tune.
- I/H/E
- EGR Removal
- Electric Fans
- N60 MAF
- Lightweight flywheel (11lbs is ideal)
- Ported Intake Manifold
- Tune w/ SAFC
That should give you some great gains, and all without having to crack open your head or bottom in of the engine.
The Crank pulley is pretty expensive, and I don't believe it is significantly lighter than the stock one w/ a dampener. As far as the xcessive mani - you might be better off spending the money on what I posted above - if you are looking at some decent n/a mods. I have pretty much everything i mentioned here - I also have a ported TB, lightweight driveshaft... dyno will be coming soon.
You can get everything I posted here for probably under $2,000... including a tune.