It's just insulting to a guy like me that has been promoting the KA for years and pushed for the use of the fully counterweighted crank.
I spoke with Chris at AMS to get a fullycounterweighted crank pushed out in production.

Also when these cranks were in discussion Brian Crower brought out his crank the same year. This kit has only been on the market for the last 2 years, not 3+ years.

We all discussed the advantages of fully counter weighted cranks, and how harmonically it helps maintain smoother revs and higher redlines. Promotes a healthier torque and HP band as well. I don't believe power drops to 5500 RPM when the stock bottom end makes power to 5800 RPM, and the improved fully counterweighted crank would atleast promote peak power past 5800RPM.

Call me a grinch I just know too much about this engine and the parts available that to a guy like me it's insulting without facts.

I would just like to see this thread closed before it reaches 1000 views from members and none members and save us the embarrasement of misinformation.

I'm tracking dude, LOL! You are a plethora of knowledge and quite honestly, at least in my eyes, King of the KA! You've probably done more to make the KA something popular than any other ONE person can claim.

I feel the same way with motorsports, more over drifting, I'm out there at least once a month, busting my ass, struggling with my platform to learn, going broke, advertising, blah blah. Just to make drifting more of a household name in the minds of both motorsport and non-motorsport enthusiasts. Then I pop in and some non-driving rookie is trying to tell me that they know more about the sport than I or that they're a better driver, LOL!

But yeah, lets see what he has to say, he's on a completely different time-zone/date line than we are, so lets give him a chance to rebut.

-Dave

bros calm down.... i have physically touch the motor and seen the walls.. its no where near a 2.4 thats for sure..



in sieve's defense he is active and for what im worth and what i have seen him do, i validate him as a real tuner and driver.

he is new to forums and has not yet learned yet how to relay things. that is all

I'm not up at arms at all, LOL! I just want the thread to stay open ^_^

Did you see the crank shaft or pistons?

i held the crank it is indeed a BC crank. as far as the pistons to be brutally honest i just know they are not stock size 2.4L pistons.

I have plenty of pictures of th KA build, Click on my myspace link and go to the KA24DE-KA27DE pictures. You can see all the pics. Do not call me a liar, for I am not.

O.K well this is for sure what I am gathering from your build pics.

First off those are the 2.65 liter pistons from Brian/Crower.
The KA block is a siamesed block which means each sand cast portion for the cylinder chambers was individual molded together to make the KA24de block. A bore that becomes to large will crack the cast between the cylinder chambers. It would be nice if you could of atleast told the actual bore size of the cylinder walls.

Secondly your complaint about your rev and redline, is clearly your mistake with your build. Stock header is a no no, stock MAF is a no no, stock injectors is a no no. I could go on and on but those were the three identifiable parts to your build that would hold your engine from high reving.

Increasing your engine displacement means that you will need to increase the injector cc. You should just use the sr20det injectors with a tune or SAFC.
If the engine is only making power to 5500RPM your cut short on injector duty cycle /pulse width using the stock 270cc injectors, and your K value from the ecu.

Voltage fom the G60 MAF isn't helping you either, since you've increased your displacement your load value goes unchanged actually lowering your rev and redline. K value on the ecu has no where to go but to the right of the MAPS.

So in the process that you built this amazing internal KA you failed to upgrade the tune, injectors , MAF and headers so that you couldn't redline at about 8000RPM....


If you would like I have a book on ecu tuning. I have one for you that would explain where your problems are coming from. I can PDF the pages for you and send it via email. It's a good book with lots of answers.

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I was running an entirely new fuel system, but I did have the stock MAF, and stock Header. I was running top feed 550cc injectors with an aftermarket fuel pressur regulator, and walboro 255lph fuel pump. I also was running an Apexi AFC II. This was the first motor I ever worked on myself and I have made mistakes with it, but for my first it wasn't too bad. I did not know that running the stock maf would hurt the powerband as it did. I thought that was just the head and exhaust manifold. I was planning on boosting it and going mafles, which I still plan on doing. MAP is the way to go, that and a new ECU (AEM EMS). I was dumb I agree with the stock headder and MAF, but I got a little ahead of myself. But I have learned from that mistake. I did not join a forum to piss people off, or make enimies, I joined to learn from other people, who know more than I do about cars. I had never been on a forum really. A feiw months ago I couldn't have told you what one was for the life of me. I would like a copy of the book. Thank you. I do have a question for you since you seem to know your **** with the KA, is there an upgrade for the oil pump?

A G60 MAF is highly restrictive not only is it limited to its voltage. It also measures under 48mm diameter from the center of the MAF. Stock Throttle body is 60mm so in order to not allow any airflow restriction to the engine the MAF should be in comparison the same size or slightly larger than that of the TB. I use an N60 it is a bit easier to tune with as far as it's voltage range, it is also slightly larger than the stock TB so I know that my intake system is working more like a velocity stack.

I don't agree so much with the use of 550cc injetors. ATOMIZATION of air and fuel is to stay lean and clean to make big numbers. Natural aspiration isn't like turbo charging where 550cc would probably be more necessarry since there is alot more cylinder pressure. Using 550cc injection and using only 30% or less of it's duty cycle only makes the spray pattern less efficient. If your HP goals are roughly 250 to 300HP you would be fine using 360~440cc injection.
There is less pressure needed on the fuel system the spray pattern is also more consistent, overall its effeciency, power, and reliability that should be your goals for your build. You should be tuning around your HP needs and reliable goals, not for goals that probably won't be met.

MAP is always the way to go, but the facts are tuning with a MAF from the junk yard for under $40 is cheaper than a brand new $150 MAP sensor, and a few hours modifying the manifold.

For me MAF or MAP doesn't matter any tune that you make still has values that have to be plugged in and in some respects yes, MAF's are limited.

im not very sure but i believe i read somewhere that people use the L-series pump ..........

L28 oil sump for the KA24(e) engines. I'm not to sure on this one, but I don't believe that it is universal for the KA24(de) engines. Unless improvised and modified. I have heard of people modifying the Rb25 oil sump on the KA24de but then again I don't deal with to many JDM parts that are used for the Nissan parts bin.
How ever toga makes a high flow oil pump for the KA24de if nothing else works out and it happens to be a great alternative from what I have heard....http://www.importperformanceparts.ne...mpsnissan.html

The toga pump cost $269, honestly it is well worth it. even using 10w-40 oil my engine still overheats at a constant 7000RPM rev, I have redlined way above with my K value changed and peak power raised. Peak power on my engine is 6500 RPM. So mine isn't the typical stock block KA after going through 3 tandem runs on the drift track it is hard to keep the KA from over heating. For insurance I recomend the TOGA.

However a windage tray and scraper can be implemented, and Kevin johnson of Ishihara and Johnson crank scrapers can make a custom scraper for the de which can reduce oil starvation, and high temprature oil viscosity. He would however possibly need the engine block to make this scraper for the fully counterweighted crank shaft. he could build you one for a mor eafforadable price than the toga HV pump. http://www.crank-scrapers.com/Datsun-Nissan.html

The only other alternative would be a dry sump system which at the least would cost $2400 to put together. Or a vacuum system tapped from the bottom end of the block to the PCV system or intake system.

Or as another alternative step up to a heavier weight oil such as 10w-40, or NEO synthetic 0w-50. Then again this isn't the best alternative.. I use castrol GTX high mileage 10w-40 and after a few mnutes of hig rev my engine still overheats.

Alot of the engine temprature can be fought with an aluminum radiator, but it will only fight the frictional heat from oil for probaly a minute or so I've done tandem drifting for up to 3 minutes and my engine is starting to show prolonged damage from the rev and abuse, and the overheating becomes a much more prolonged issue as well.

Thank you Vinnie, that was very helpfull. I think I am going to go TOGA, I think it would be a cheaper option for me as me and the motor are in Japan. Shipping would cost too much from here. You have been most helpfull.

I actually think that "we" here in the U.S are getting ripped off. I'm pretty sure that after conversion rate you can get that Toga pump in Japan for about $180 U.S dollars.