Engine Mounts and Sway Bars
#1
Engine Mounts and Sway Bars
i have a 96 240 and im lookin for sum new engine mounts. i think my OE may have gone bcuz my first cat pipe broke at the flange and needed to be welded back. i saw some nismo enngine mounts for 67 bucks each does anyone have any recommendations? Also, im lookin for sum front/rear sway or strut bars to stiffen everything up. thakns
#3
You might not like the vibration. But I dont mind.
What i did is go to the local machine/metal yard & got 2 pieces of round stock billet aluminum had it cut to the proper height. I took it home & put it in the drill press. Drilled 1 hole in each. Then installed them. End result..Engine mounts that will never break, last for forever & theyONLY COST $5 TOTAL .
Just a thought, to put in your head. I dont see how people can spend $200 on engine mounts & then sleep at night.
What i did is go to the local machine/metal yard & got 2 pieces of round stock billet aluminum had it cut to the proper height. I took it home & put it in the drill press. Drilled 1 hole in each. Then installed them. End result..Engine mounts that will never break, last for forever & theyONLY COST $5 TOTAL .
Just a thought, to put in your head. I dont see how people can spend $200 on engine mounts & then sleep at night.
#4
Originally posted by Project Cheap13
You might not like the vibration. But I dont mind.
What i did is go to the local machine/metal yard & got 2 pieces of round stock billet aluminum had it cut to the proper height. I took it home & put it in the drill press. Drilled 1 hole in each. Then installed them. End result..Engine mounts that will never break, last for forever & theyONLY COST $5 TOTAL .
Just a thought, to put in your head. I dont see how people can spend $200 on engine mounts & then sleep at night.
You might not like the vibration. But I dont mind.
What i did is go to the local machine/metal yard & got 2 pieces of round stock billet aluminum had it cut to the proper height. I took it home & put it in the drill press. Drilled 1 hole in each. Then installed them. End result..Engine mounts that will never break, last for forever & theyONLY COST $5 TOTAL .
Just a thought, to put in your head. I dont see how people can spend $200 on engine mounts & then sleep at night.
#5
l2aine, you are right. It does transmit all the vibration. But like I said, I dont mind it. It really isnt alot. Now if you have interior panels that are barely held on because of busted clips, ect...they will rattle.
But considering there is no drivetrain loss through flexing the power is more instantainous & Another benefit is that aluminum is a great heat conductor. It pulls a good amount of heat from the engine & disipates it through the mounts. SO the pros far outweight the cons IMHO.
As for being race only. No they are not, Saab & BMW( among others) use them as a standard upgrade.
So all you need is 4 round butyl rubber pads( if you want them) & 2 blocks of aluminum.
Very very cheap upgrade.
But considering there is no drivetrain loss through flexing the power is more instantainous & Another benefit is that aluminum is a great heat conductor. It pulls a good amount of heat from the engine & disipates it through the mounts. SO the pros far outweight the cons IMHO.
As for being race only. No they are not, Saab & BMW( among others) use them as a standard upgrade.
So all you need is 4 round butyl rubber pads( if you want them) & 2 blocks of aluminum.
Very very cheap upgrade.
Last edited by Project Cheap13; 06-30-2004 at 05:42 AM.
#7
Some people like to put it between the frame/mount & the mount/engine mount brace.
It takes some of the vibration I guess. I have never done it that way. It just seems too much of a hassle. Plus the fact that it is another piece that can wear out & it wont absorb the heat as good.
I dont use any bushings or pads. I just put the aluminum right in place of the old mount.
Here are a few old pics of when I first put them in for fitment. Back in March I think.
It takes some of the vibration I guess. I have never done it that way. It just seems too much of a hassle. Plus the fact that it is another piece that can wear out & it wont absorb the heat as good.
I dont use any bushings or pads. I just put the aluminum right in place of the old mount.
Here are a few old pics of when I first put them in for fitment. Back in March I think.
Last edited by Project Cheap13; 06-30-2004 at 11:36 AM.
#10
Sorry it took me a while to get back to this.
I have never done it that way, so I couldnt tell you.
But I dont see why it wouldnt work. They best way to find out is to experiment. That is what I do all the time.
If something doesnt work. It gets thrown in the trash.
I have never done it that way, so I couldnt tell you.
But I dont see why it wouldnt work. They best way to find out is to experiment. That is what I do all the time.
If something doesnt work. It gets thrown in the trash.
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