auto body Question?
#16
lead is dangerous. i wouldn't use it. (that's why you can't get it state side anymore easily)
and when welding up the holes use the lowest heat setting and a slower wire speed. too much heat and too frequent heat will cause the metal around the hole to get REALLY thin ( about a 2" diameter) it'll look terrible down the road.
and when welding up the holes use the lowest heat setting and a slower wire speed. too much heat and too frequent heat will cause the metal around the hole to get REALLY thin ( about a 2" diameter) it'll look terrible down the road.
#18
^ If you're on a high voltage setting while welding sheet metal, you're almost guarenteed to blow through.
Keep the setting on as low as possible, but keep deep penetration.
As far as the lead goes, inhaling fumes emitted by melted lead WILL cause health issues. There are lead free substitutes if you dont' like plastic filler, and are similar to lead.
Body solder: http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT
Keep the setting on as low as possible, but keep deep penetration.
As far as the lead goes, inhaling fumes emitted by melted lead WILL cause health issues. There are lead free substitutes if you dont' like plastic filler, and are similar to lead.
Body solder: http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT
#19
Lead is not dangerous......it is harmful if you do not handle it properly it is just like any other material that is potentially harmful, but lead is the best filler you can use for body work, IT DOES NOT CRACK and shapes as easy or easier as bondo with out worrying about the hardner. IF you are smart in the way you use it i.e. Gloves, resperator (Like any body man would do) You will be fine and if you think you can't get lead state side you are smoking crack. That is what I used on my rolled fenders to smooth the rolls out and just used a little filler for the final touch.
*Edit* Pinoyboy body solder is ok to use it is not nearly as Pliable as lead and due to it's consistancy and melting point and does not adhere evenly at the same temprature as lead. Lead was always the preferred choice however it is harmful I am not denying that. You are exactly right about the ceramic goes for heatsoaking they have (here in japan) Rods in all different shapes and sizes for welding here for autobody made of ceramic and low heat welding. that is some good looking work on the trunk lid.
*Edit* Pinoyboy body solder is ok to use it is not nearly as Pliable as lead and due to it's consistancy and melting point and does not adhere evenly at the same temprature as lead. Lead was always the preferred choice however it is harmful I am not denying that. You are exactly right about the ceramic goes for heatsoaking they have (here in japan) Rods in all different shapes and sizes for welding here for autobody made of ceramic and low heat welding. that is some good looking work on the trunk lid.
Last edited by silviasichigo; 02-23-2006 at 03:42 PM.
#20
=D
Thanks Silviasichigo.
I've never been a fan of lead as it requires a lot of steps to clean the area (ie flux, cleaning off acid w\ laquer thinner, etc.) and in the end, you still have to use a little bit of plastic filler. In essence, you're bypassing the use of filler by using lead, but in the end, using plastic filler anyway. Granted, the filler wont' be nearly as thick, but that's why metal work\metal finishing should be a very important skill to aquire.
In short, if you can straighten the metal as much as possible, thereby limiting the thickness of the filler to less than 1\4th of an inch, i'd stick w\ plastic filler. It's quicker, and easy to mix up a usable batch [hence, the reason almost nobody uses lead anymore. At least, across what i've encountered]. If you're planning on filling in a deeply recessed area, use lead.
Thanks
I've never been a fan of lead as it requires a lot of steps to clean the area (ie flux, cleaning off acid w\ laquer thinner, etc.) and in the end, you still have to use a little bit of plastic filler. In essence, you're bypassing the use of filler by using lead, but in the end, using plastic filler anyway. Granted, the filler wont' be nearly as thick, but that's why metal work\metal finishing should be a very important skill to aquire.
In short, if you can straighten the metal as much as possible, thereby limiting the thickness of the filler to less than 1\4th of an inch, i'd stick w\ plastic filler. It's quicker, and easy to mix up a usable batch [hence, the reason almost nobody uses lead anymore. At least, across what i've encountered]. If you're planning on filling in a deeply recessed area, use lead.
Thanks
#23
Originally posted by SittnSidewayz
so uh, yeah previous owner's gf had a bat right... yeah its all dinged up near the roof and the gas cap... just bondo? can someone give me like 'exact' steps on how to bondo, without being an ***.
so uh, yeah previous owner's gf had a bat right... yeah its all dinged up near the roof and the gas cap... just bondo? can someone give me like 'exact' steps on how to bondo, without being an ***.
Assuming each dent isn't the size of a baseball, you might be safe w\ just filling in each dent w\ 'bondo'. If that's the case, you're safe to do the following:
1) Grind paint down, feather surrounding paint, fillin dent, block to level surface, primer, paint, etc.
-or-
2) scuff paint, fill in dent w\ a glaze (ie Evercoats 'Metal Glaze'), block to level surface, primer, paint, etc.
If the damage is bigger (ie the size of a baseball or larger), just add metal finishing to the above steps.
I know this sounds overly simplified, and it is - for a reason. I can't help very well unless i can - in person - observe the damage. Sorry, but g'luck
-John
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
patches454
For Sale - Wanting To Buy (WTB) Or Trade (WTT)
1
04-16-2007 11:01 AM