MTLS13

ive been having alot of problems with my car lately and i keep gettin mixed answers and i dont trust certian people when it comes to my car..

--> BEFORE: my turbo would spool and u wouldnt hear it realease the air
NOW: my turbo spools and it flutters

(what caused this? and is it bad for the motor?)

--> BEFORE: my car never lagged boost between shifts
NOW: it does..

( keep in mind my throttle cable is slacked and changing this will hopefully fix the problem)

--> my diverter valve isnt sucking or blowing any air at all and when i removed one of the hoses i found white powder all around the the inside of the hoses and around the metal

(whats the problem?)


--> will gettin a blow off valve, intercooler kit allowed me to remove my diverter valve and all those hoses leading into the intake?

--> i had a debate tonight about blow off valve placement, personnaly ive only seen the blowoff valve on the midpipe that leads down into the intercooler, whereas my friend told me its better to place the blowoff valve on the cold pip leading OUT from the intercooler into the intake manifold

(which is recommended?)

i have so many questions and no one to answer them.. so i would really appreciate all the help i can get guys!

Biggamehit

iTrader: (2)

- you may have a faulty wastegate or disconnected wastegate signal line.. the flutter you hear is called compressor surge. this is the act of air going against the compressor wheel when the throttle body is shut closed. each flutter is actually the wheel being violently slowed down. over time with certain turbos, this can cause serious damage.
it sounds cool but its harmful. the common issue with the OE setups are the internal wastegates. they should be PSI checked to insure that they are opening up properly. Its an easy replacement if broken.

- have you made an significant upgrades to the turbo or engine? lagging could be the result of a blown coupler. check all of them and your piping.

-check all vacuums and if you have A forest of T's this is bad.

-Plug everything back up that you pull off of the stock setup. the other vacs are for your solenoids. I don't know which ones you SR guys need and don't need..... A SR guy will chime in.

-this will be an ongoing debate. there is no set place. stock the Valves are on the hot side so many people leave them there.. however you can change them around to your liking.. some people have tuned their cars to function a certain way. Placement of the valve can be vital as this can change the characteristics of throttle response, boost etc............its a pretty deep topic and i can go on about it.


-as far as the white powder....... i have no idea. most things you see like that is just environmental. because parts are constantly getting hot, cool and warm, condensation can build... after that whatever is in the air at the time will bond to the condensation and dry up and flake off. Just remove the part and clean it.

MTLS13

Will getting a bov stop the compressor surge?
And as for turbo upgrades I'm running completely stock everything, also I only have to "T's "

Biggamehit

iTrader: (2)

no not really....

another possible issue for the lag

leaking recirculation valves

stuck open wastegate.

that stuck open wastegate could also cause you to over boost and the extra pressure is causing the compressor surge.

MTLS13

Well it can't be overboost because my boost guage doesn't pass 7psi which is the stock psi for an SR.. I also discovered a piece from the wastegate to a smallbox with a **** (looks like a manual boost controller) whichever way I turn it nothing seems to change then that's connected to a black box which then connects to my intake..

japanesenut

You need the fsm and start there man. You running a red top, black top or a notch top .Second you getting any smoke out your tail pipe .
1; what turbo are you running
2; do you have smoke coming out your tail pipe if you rEv it a little .
3; For now go back to stock get rid of the manual boost controller and PLEASE post piks first so we can verify .
4; WTF IS THIS (my diverter valve isnt sucking)If this is a pcv valve go to auto zone match it up it should suck not blow and will cause you unwanted problems .
5;Do you have an afr gauge (i.e. wide band )if not get one it can save your engine trust im glad I got one .200.00 ebay aem wide band .Start here . and get back to us .And if you do have onee whats your afr's

MTLS13

I'm running completely stock red top sr the only thing I did to my car is empty the catalyser that's the only thing. My car backfires and smells like burning oil. It doesn't puff at all anywhere.
Unfortunatley I don't have an afr gauge..

But if I was loosing boost how come it always spools at 7psi? Which is stock and I haven't touched it or tried boosting it more. Ill post pics when I'm done work.

Biggamehit

iTrader: (2)

well.... if he is completely stock a wideband is not needed as the AF/R and timing is taken care of with the OE ECU.. wideband is only useful if you are tuning.

sounds like you have a timing issue mate


-when was the last time you change plugs
-the oil smell is not good
-you may have a failing coil pack also

yea you didn't mention this earlier. we need as much detail as possible..

MTLS13

Ill check it out tonight and let u guyus know and I just took pics ill post them when I'm done working

japanesenut

I dont agree with you on the wide band ! it can tell you if you have boost leak vacuum leak and many other leaks Why cause if your sucking in some where else and cant tell you can at least see you a/f . And s it improve or get worse .
And 1psi or 50 psi knowing your a/f is important i know; i wouldn't want my a/f to be lean at 7psi cause maybe my timing is out of wack and oh wait there goes my engine .200.00 dollars is nothing to the price of a rebuild or a new engine or just a head .Sorry but my gut tells me wide band is important .

And we do need as much detail as possible .Sorry for my rant but some things you just dont forget .

Biggamehit

iTrader: (2)

you don't need a wideband to know that you have a leak etc etc etc, if you cant tell that just by hearing, seeing and smelling, you are not in-tune with your car.

wideband is a tuning device used when tuning. now if you want to look pretty with it have at it. to run it on a OE setup with AF/Rs already set and no piggyback hooked up is a waste. If you want to get technical, your wideband O2 should not even be run if you are not tuning. they are not ment to be run like a narrowband o2 sensor.........they will burn out quick.

i have wideband on my KA-T that i tuned and i will have Wideband on my custom turbo setup on my skyline with power FC.... that calls for a wideband.

japanesenut

Im not going to argue on this guys thread any more .W just have diff . opinion's .Yeah they burn quick with race gas get your stuff right .And if you put it too close. This is childish...

Biggamehit

iTrader: (2)

................. There is no argument... its just differences.. you have your opinion and i have mine lol..

However don't assume i don't know my stuff lol, I am aware the o2 has to be placed further away etc........however there was no need for me to elaborate on that because when and if he bought an wideband, the directions would state that. Its not only the gas but the temp that damages the sensor also. As you stated distance will fix that.

Once again... no argument bro, i don't know what you have experienced on other forums.. but you can take the force field down. I'm an adult and i don't have time to engage people online for fun.

thanks for contributing

MTLS13

you think if i brought my car to my friends garage and plugged up the ecu to the computer they have itll tell me whats wrong with my car?

Biggamehit

iTrader: (2)

sure if he has a port scanner cool, but you can do it your self via the ecu by reading your codes.

if you don't know how to do that, just download an SR20 FSM and go to the ECCS section. you will see all that you need to see.