Won't Run? - S-Chassis.com


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Old 07-20-2010, 08:26 PM   #1
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Won't Run?

Ok let me give a quick break down of what has been going on.

Fuel injector went out, got a new one. The new one had a bad lower o-ring and I didn't notice it (it looked new). So it filled my 3rd cylinder with fuel and the engine locked up. Drained the fuel, oil is still good. Fixed the o-ring issue and put new plugs in it. Car won't run now. Checked for spark and fuel, all good. CAS was checked after that, it's set right.

Today I put everything together, plugged in the batter and the car started and ran for about 2 seconds and died, now it won't even try to restart. Same thing it did before I checked the CAS, it tried to start and maybe ran for a second and died.

I've checked wiring, etc. Everything I can think of and nothing seems to fix the problem. Does the ECU need a full reset? Guy at the local parts store said I should bring my ECU in and they have a reset modular that can fully reset the ECU, that mine might now allow the car to run since it locked up before.

Anyone? I'm lost...and tired of missing races, lol.

EDIT: Wow, I think it's a paper weight...if I put my foot to the floor (full gas) the engine will start but the engine makes a load noise and it stops, but it turns right back over? So it's not locking up. ahh why can't there be people near me that know about these engines?? lol

Last edited by Scabd; 07-20-2010 at 09:08 PM. Reason: Update with more info
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Old 07-30-2010, 09:55 PM   #2
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The fuel may have fried ur rings do a comp test..
When u crank does it make a diff noise?
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Old 08-13-2010, 12:26 PM   #3
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Sorry for the delay. Compression is good, fuel is good. Tested CAS and Ignitor, both seemed fine but some of those "that know what they are talking about" suggested I try new ones. So I got my hands on a CAS and Ignitor, nope, nothing. Still won't start.

So, how in the heck do you test a coil? I don't see how all the coils went bad but there seems to be no spark. I'll confirm that tonight, but fuel on the plugs seems to be a good indicator of no spark. Everything is getting power I know that, I just don't get this. If the engine seizes is there something you have to do to get the car to run again? As in something besides a soft reset of the ECU (pulling battery cable to reset)??
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Old 08-13-2010, 01:39 PM   #4
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pull all of your plugs out and crank the engine with your injectors unplugged. I recommend buying new plugs or burning the fuel off of them. Check your grounds on the engine to make sure they are good. The one from the head to the firewall could cause your engine not to run. Then put your plugs back in and try it again. Maybe your intake had alot of fuel in it and flooded the engine?
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Old 08-13-2010, 01:48 PM   #5
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I just pulled the new plugs I put in it. They are fine. Checked ground a million times. My head isn't grounded to the firewall, it's grounded to the frame. Valve cover is still grounded to the firewall and that ground is fine. See, seriously I've tried everything I can think of. I heard that unplugging the maf and if the car starts it's the maf. Even though I thought if the maf was bad the car would still start, just not rev past 2500 rpm, who knows, but I was going to try it but battery went dead so I'm waiting for it to recharge.
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Old 08-14-2010, 12:59 PM   #6
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Well I put what I read to the test. Unplugged the maf and the car still won't start. I've checked the timing again, and wiring again, all good. I'm so lost, anyone? I've read tons of posts on many different forums of people having this problem, but no solution that I haven't already tried or they didn't have solutions.
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Old 08-14-2010, 10:16 PM   #7
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Did you try a different ECU?
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Old 08-15-2010, 04:54 PM   #8
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went to try to pull check engine codes, something very interesting is going on...

I twist the little **** on the ECU to put it into the mode that shows me codes, when I turn the key over it just flickers really fast once and nothing after that. I know it's not supposed to do that, but what in the heck does that mean?
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Old 08-17-2010, 04:00 PM   #9
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And it is worse, or maybe better if I can figure out what is causing the problem. It's now apparent the engine is flooding (of sorts) so it's not starting. I just put all new injector seals in but cylinder 1 and 2 are filling up with fuel. Is there some kind of controller on the car or something that could cause this? I'm going to dive a bit deeper into this in an hour or so. Just trying to see if anyone has had this issue and just not posted it before...

EDIT 1: Oh btw, I know the fuel pump isn't sticking on, you can hear it kick on and then off like normal.
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Old 08-20-2010, 12:42 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 240smoke View Post
Did you try a different ECU?
I would try what 240smoke said. and remember you have to match the ecu to your engine if you have the wrong ecu your car will not run right.
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Old 09-13-2010, 08:17 PM   #11
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i put an e5 blktop ecu on my redtop..#62 and it ran fine..
pull the rail an crank car and see if its o-rings or injectors spitting to much....
also check if ecu has sufficient voltage or any at all..
the f9-f10 connectors by where the battery goes...
blk/red....switched 12v...
blue/red switched 12v..(coilpak powa)
red constant 12v.....
blk/pink..fruelpoop...
blk/yell..iacv switched powa
brown... o2 12v switched
i rewired my ecu from car so when it cranks it get full volt from alt
cause i had floating voltage issues that cause bad performance
once i did it it was like a new car w sr20det swap....boosted like a champ
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Old 09-16-2010, 06:06 AM   #12
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good info
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Old 10-05-2010, 03:40 PM   #13
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I finally had sometime to get back to working on the car. New injector seals are in, so it's not flooding anymore, checked it to make sure and they are sealing perfectly.

ECU seems fine, got it to got into diagnostic mode and it pushed only one code, 13. But why would the "Coolant temp sensor" cause the car not to run?

I still haven't tried another ECU, no one anywhere near me seems to have a s13 ECU for me to try out.
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Old 10-05-2010, 06:36 PM   #14
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Ignore last post, after the engine stopped flooding and when I was done dicking with the timing and what not I had a buddy of mine come out (someone who actually knows something about cars) and looked it it. I had checked the timing a million times, it turns out the last time I put in the CAS I put it in 180 out. So the car runs almost nice now. I still need to replace my coolant temp sensor and change my oil. Got a ticking sound from the rear of the engine, my best guess it because it sat so long my lifter is knocking. So i'll change the oil and put some additive in it and see how things go.

I also located my brake light issue, the damn things wouldn't go out. Well you know those cheap plastic pieces on the peddle, well those are broke...so I have to locate some of this too
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Old 10-05-2010, 11:24 PM   #15
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yea indeed. they break easily over the time.
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