Fixing up an S14.
12-08-2005, 05:35 PM
#1
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 12
Fixing up an S14.
So after failing to talk my buddies into buying an S14 (in a vain attempt to live vicariously through them) I finally caved and a few days ago I purchased a ’96 zenki SE, non-ABS or VLSD, 115k miles and a 5-speed of course (thanks B for the great deal on this ride). Very clean machine, some minor cosmetic things to fix, but what I would like to focus on correcting are the mechanical issues that effect reliability and performance first.
I had an S13 years ago and see that some of the mechanical issues I had w/ it are apparent with this as well, namely the clutch hydraulic system. I was hoping I could get some input from folks that are familiar w/ issues concerning S14’s of this many miles. So far I’ve noticed the following:
- The clutch has that excessively spongy feeling and the mechanisms under the dash squeak quite a bit. I’ll bleed it this weekend to see if that helps. The clutch still grabs well, it doesn’t slip when accelerating hard uphill in 5th. Whether it’s been replaced before (almost likely) or is still running on its original one is unknown. Seems like a lot of guys change the CMS & CSC when a car gets to this point.
- There’s a slight hint of gear grind when I shift, possibly due to the clutch hydraulic system.
-It feels and sounds like the subframe bushings need to be replaced. I’m getting the single thump from the rear when I up shift and accelerate at a good clip. Could it be something else?
- Looks like the rear diff my have a small leak around the seal the gasket might need to be replaced.
- There is a little annoying plastic rattle behind the dash right under the intrument panel around the 3k rpm range, nothing major, it’s just annoying.
-The shocks seem are a little worn, they look like the original ones so I will probably upgrade to Konis later on.
This weekend I’ll have it up on jacks, pull the wheels off and climb under it to inspect well, change the oil, check tranny oil & diff, etc. The spark plugs still look pretty good and the wires feel good so I’ll hold off on changing those things, cap and rotor. The engine sounds smooth, feels strong and responds well, Brakes feel pretty good, but I’ll probably flush out all the fluid anyways.
Something I’d like to see if I can firm up is the gear shifter. It feels pretty sloppy, as sloppy as I recall on S13’s that I’ve driven in the past. I’m not too happy w/ that feeling. Is there anyway to firm it up short of getting a short throw unit?
I’d like to get any recommendations on things I should look out for while servicing/inspecting this car. Any input it welcomed, I’m not the greatest mechanic, I just know enough to get myself in trouble and would like to avoid that as much as possible. Thanks.
I had an S13 years ago and see that some of the mechanical issues I had w/ it are apparent with this as well, namely the clutch hydraulic system. I was hoping I could get some input from folks that are familiar w/ issues concerning S14’s of this many miles. So far I’ve noticed the following:
- The clutch has that excessively spongy feeling and the mechanisms under the dash squeak quite a bit. I’ll bleed it this weekend to see if that helps. The clutch still grabs well, it doesn’t slip when accelerating hard uphill in 5th. Whether it’s been replaced before (almost likely) or is still running on its original one is unknown. Seems like a lot of guys change the CMS & CSC when a car gets to this point.
- There’s a slight hint of gear grind when I shift, possibly due to the clutch hydraulic system.
-It feels and sounds like the subframe bushings need to be replaced. I’m getting the single thump from the rear when I up shift and accelerate at a good clip. Could it be something else?
- Looks like the rear diff my have a small leak around the seal the gasket might need to be replaced.
- There is a little annoying plastic rattle behind the dash right under the intrument panel around the 3k rpm range, nothing major, it’s just annoying.
-The shocks seem are a little worn, they look like the original ones so I will probably upgrade to Konis later on.
This weekend I’ll have it up on jacks, pull the wheels off and climb under it to inspect well, change the oil, check tranny oil & diff, etc. The spark plugs still look pretty good and the wires feel good so I’ll hold off on changing those things, cap and rotor. The engine sounds smooth, feels strong and responds well, Brakes feel pretty good, but I’ll probably flush out all the fluid anyways.
Something I’d like to see if I can firm up is the gear shifter. It feels pretty sloppy, as sloppy as I recall on S13’s that I’ve driven in the past. I’m not too happy w/ that feeling. Is there anyway to firm it up short of getting a short throw unit?
I’d like to get any recommendations on things I should look out for while servicing/inspecting this car. Any input it welcomed, I’m not the greatest mechanic, I just know enough to get myself in trouble and would like to avoid that as much as possible. Thanks.
12-08-2005, 06:11 PM
#2
Contributing Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: MA
Posts: 1,703
search "clutch dampener removal", l2aine has a write-up for it on his site and it's a half hour procedure with a significant enough difference. You might as well get rid of it while you're under the car. Replace the tranny oil and see if it helps with the shifting. Otherwise car seems like it's fine with just the usual signs of wear and tear. Take your time and enjoy the Zenki-ness~
12-10-2005, 12:31 AM
#5
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Socal, 909/626
Posts: 6,587
Re: Fixing up an S14.
Originally posted by drivesolo
- The clutch has that excessively spongy feeling and the mechanisms under the dash squeak quite a bit. I�ll bleed it this weekend to see if that helps.
- The clutch has that excessively spongy feeling and the mechanisms under the dash squeak quite a bit. I�ll bleed it this weekend to see if that helps.
- There�s a slight hint of gear grind when I shift, possibly due to the clutch hydraulic system.
-It feels and sounds like the subframe bushings need to be replaced. I�m getting the single thump from the rear when I up shift and accelerate at a good clip. Could it be something else?
- There is a little annoying plastic rattle behind the dash right under the intrument panel around the 3k rpm range, nothing major, it�s just annoying.
Something I�d like to see if I can firm up is the gear shifter. It feels pretty sloppy, as sloppy as I recall on S13�s that I�ve driven in the past. I�m not too happy w/ that feeling. Is there anyway to firm it up short of getting a short throw unit?
12-15-2005, 10:14 PM
#6
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 12
Thanks for the advice guys. I was under the car last week, everything looked good 'cept for the subfram bushings. I could actually see a gap in between bushing and the chassis. I've ordered subframe bushing spacers and I should have 'em in by next week.
I bleed the clutch, pretty much flushed it w/ new fluid. I also re adjusted he CMC pushrod and removed the clutch assist spring whihc was making the squeeking sound, and now the clutch feels good. The tranny oil has been changed. The hint of gear grind is still there, but I'm noticing that it goes away as the car is driven. In about 15-20 minutes of driving, it will all but disappear.
I bleed the clutch, pretty much flushed it w/ new fluid. I also re adjusted he CMC pushrod and removed the clutch assist spring whihc was making the squeeking sound, and now the clutch feels good. The tranny oil has been changed. The hint of gear grind is still there, but I'm noticing that it goes away as the car is driven. In about 15-20 minutes of driving, it will all but disappear.
12-22-2005, 06:57 AM
#8
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: birmingham alabama
Posts: 28
hey drivesolo would it be better to put, metal collars instead of the subframe bushings ?? because i have the same hump sound in the back of the car and i already know is the subframe bushings also wondering would i have to change all 4 sub bushings or just the 2 bottom ones?..
ps ,didnt think i had to start an all new thead, if anybody could answer this ,thnx
ps ,didnt think i had to start an all new thead, if anybody could answer this ,thnx
12-27-2005, 03:27 AM
#9
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: PA
Posts: 732
I dont believe you can chenge the bushings at all. You could order a new subframe from Nissan, (I think we know the chances of anyone doing that) or you get the drift donuts (collars/washers/spacers/discs)
Anyone with this problem may also want to check the bushings on the snout of the Diff. This is only for S14, the S13 doesnt have the bushings, just a bolt hole. I believe those pieces can be replaced and I have seen lots of bad ones.
Anyone with this problem may also want to check the bushings on the snout of the Diff. This is only for S14, the S13 doesnt have the bushings, just a bolt hole. I believe those pieces can be replaced and I have seen lots of bad ones.
12-27-2005, 06:10 AM
#10
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 12
The subframe bushings can be replaced, but to get it done requires a lot of work and some tools to press out the old bushings that most home garage mechanics don't have. As far as I could tell, the subframe spacers provide a far simpler solution and provide slightly improved performance over the stock bushings. The drawbacks; increased noise transmitted into the chassis from the rear suspension and a slightly harsher ride.
I received the bushings last week, I'll probably put them on this comming weekend if I get the opportunity and let you know how it goes. I'll snap some photos too when I get it.
I received the bushings last week, I'll probably put them on this comming weekend if I get the opportunity and let you know how it goes. I'll snap some photos too when I get it.
01-02-2006, 08:01 AM
#12
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 127
Re: Fixing up an S14.
Originally posted by drivesolo
-It feels and sounds like the subframe bushings need to be replaced. I’m getting the single thump from the rear when I up shift and accelerate at a good clip. Could it be something else?
-It feels and sounds like the subframe bushings need to be replaced. I’m getting the single thump from the rear when I up shift and accelerate at a good clip. Could it be something else?
01-08-2006, 05:01 PM
#13
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 12
I finally got around to installing the subframe spacers. It was pretty straight forward and simple. It took more time jacking up the car and putting it on stands than it did to install the spacers.
I found that now more noise from the rear suspension is traveling into the cabin. But on a positive note; the thump that I would happen when the upshfting under hard acceleration is now gone. As for any noticable performance gains, I can't say that there are any from what I've noticed. Ride feel and comfort are unchanged.
While the car was up on jacks I took the time to pull off all the wheels to give the suspension a good go through. The conditions of the chassis, suspension elements and bushings looked fine. I might decide to clean off all the heads of the nuts and bolts an make sure everything is torqued to spec, if I get the time. Front brake pads need to be replaced, they were looking pretty thin and would explain the somewhat lousy stopping power at higher speeds.
I have noticed that since I can hear the activity in the rear with new clarity, I've discovered 2 new issues w/ the car that I did not notice before.
- From what I've rear on this and other forums it sounds like the rear brake caliper is dragging. I think that will be the next issue to resolve since I will be replacing the brake pads shortly (who knows when that'll be).
- I also hear a vauge thump coming from the right rear wheel under hard acceleration, it could be the the wheel nut it not torqued correctly.
Some pics:
Right Front
Right Rear
Left Front
Left Rear
I found that now more noise from the rear suspension is traveling into the cabin. But on a positive note; the thump that I would happen when the upshfting under hard acceleration is now gone. As for any noticable performance gains, I can't say that there are any from what I've noticed. Ride feel and comfort are unchanged.
While the car was up on jacks I took the time to pull off all the wheels to give the suspension a good go through. The conditions of the chassis, suspension elements and bushings looked fine. I might decide to clean off all the heads of the nuts and bolts an make sure everything is torqued to spec, if I get the time. Front brake pads need to be replaced, they were looking pretty thin and would explain the somewhat lousy stopping power at higher speeds.
I have noticed that since I can hear the activity in the rear with new clarity, I've discovered 2 new issues w/ the car that I did not notice before.
- From what I've rear on this and other forums it sounds like the rear brake caliper is dragging. I think that will be the next issue to resolve since I will be replacing the brake pads shortly (who knows when that'll be).
- I also hear a vauge thump coming from the right rear wheel under hard acceleration, it could be the the wheel nut it not torqued correctly.
Some pics:
Right Front
Right Rear
Left Front
Left Rear
01-08-2006, 10:44 PM
#15
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 12
The bushings pretty much did what I expected them to and have made the car better over all than w/o them. The additional noise is not that bad, it actually allows for a better 'feel' of what's goin on in the rear of the car.
Welding soulds like it would be a good idea. Does welding the subframe to the chassis create any issues w/ working on the car afterwards? While the car was up, I was looking at the diff 'cuz I'll probably remove that someday if I decide to put an LSD in there. I haven't reviewed the service manual on how to remove the final drive but does it require unbolting of the subframe?
Welding soulds like it would be a good idea. Does welding the subframe to the chassis create any issues w/ working on the car afterwards? While the car was up, I was looking at the diff 'cuz I'll probably remove that someday if I decide to put an LSD in there. I haven't reviewed the service manual on how to remove the final drive but does it require unbolting of the subframe?