Install: the stock injectors were a pain to take out. I think I broke 2 of them (they might still be useable. I'll get another opinion on that before i try selling them tho ).
The modded MAF had to be made out of flexible intake hose and duct tape. On a test run I didn't feel like spending more money on something that I might have to take out anyways, so the intake looks like this:

REMEMBER THIS IS JUST FOR TESTING!! I KNOW I WILL NOT GAIN ANY PERFORMANCE, AND THIS CRAP WILL NOT LAST LONG!!!

That said, the car runs fine. There's no decrease in performance as far as I can tell. Although I haven't had the chance to take it to redline at WOT, I have done some low RPM WOT runs. Here's one of the pics:

That pretty much says everything. WOT, reading green on the A/F meter. Who could ask for anything more??

As far as idle, it's perfectly smooth. No fluctiation whatsoever.
I'll check back in with a redline WOT update later, but if it's reading green at WOT at low and mid RPM, i'm sure it'll be fine at high RPM.
Other than that... the only testing to be done is ON BOOST!

P.S. Shut up about the duct tape already. It works.

 

Glad it works. Just dont rely too much on the A/F ratio gauge. Its using the narrow band (0-1V) reading so those sensors are pretty much accurate only to for stoich (~14.6:1). I recommend getting and EGT gauge to really see whats going on. Look for 1350-1400F in cruising and under 1600F for WOT.

 

The A/F gauge is pretty much there to prove the base calculations worked and that it's possible. If the whole thing didn't work, the A/F gauge would basically read off the chart or give me funny readings. Since it's acting normal (cycling under cruise, pegging the green LEDs under WOT) I at least have the impression that the fuel system works.

Anyways, when the turbo is on, the whole thing is going on the dyno with the wideband O2 so I can get some numbers to flaunt and peice of mind that $75 is enough to upgrade to somewhat of a "good" fuel system.