Is there any specific things to know/do when turbocharging a 240sx

 

Make sure you remove the capacitor inside the flux valve.








Otherwise your car will be stuck in 1986.

 

ok, saw your link to this in the other thread ... so I know its not completely newB. acknowleging that ....

the turbo kit itself contains the basics of any other turbo kit ... manifold is different etc. but for specifics on turboing the 240 ... Id say the secret is in the vacuum lines. they can get tricky. make sure you know what you are removing and what you are tapping into. other than that, its very basic. follow general rules to the T and you should be set.

Im a little curious where you wanted to go with this. is it things like how much boost you can run, or exactly which lines to tap into. help me out a little bit

 

1) Capacitor? are you talking about an electrical capacitor?- im not quite sure what a flux valve is. <--(what is it?) ...I know when installing a Vtec head on a Honda, right before putting the head on you have to take off this oil pressure valve that is on the center front of the block,.. is that what that is ?

2) I see that your running a blow through configuration with your MAFS Ziggy682. Are you running your MAFS between your Intercooler and throttle body?

 

yea that would be a great help to know which lines to tap into. i would appreciate also knowing what to take out. (ftrs13)

 

He was making fun of you! The flux capacitor is from the back to the future car! LOL

 

Hehe, I was wondering if anyone was going to catch that. I wasn't really making fun, I was just being stupid.

Yeah, BoogiepopJDM, I am running a blow through MAF. I'm running the stock MAF in the cold charge pipe after the intercooler and before the throttle body. Check out my website if you want to see some pics of it.

 

check and make sure that the discumbobulator is in working order....if not than you will have a serious issue. Mine went out and it took weeks to figure out what it was.

 

you killed it crimson thanks for the unhelpful post. is that how you get your total marked up posts ? theres only been one helpful person so far to post up, mind you this not just for me but for everybody that can make use of this info.

 

ok ... and to continue,

oil feed ... comes from bottom right of the oil filter, there is a sensor there that you have to tap into. I believe that it is a 1/8 bspt thread? you have to put a T into where the sensor used to be, and thread the sensor into the other end of the T, and you end up with a pressurized oil source.

drainage for the oil goes back directly into the pan. you have to get a hole in there, probably near the front on the drivers side. make sure the hose is big enough ... I have 5/8" going in there.

you will have to take out the black box on the drivers side, and all its attatchments, as well as the EGR system. so say goodbye to emissions equipment.

 

so would it be like (1.)
Line
I
I_____Sensor
I
I
Line


or (2.)

Sensor
I
I
------------Line
I
I
Linel

 

both would work, but because of the setup, you would want the second to work best, because the oil line then just comes straight up and across the top of the valve cover.

 

ok when you say "oil drainage for the oil goes back directly into the pan", is that the return oil line from the turbo into the oil pan?

sorry i didnt answer your previous question. I want to boost around 7psi

About the black box and and egr are those electrical components that can be taken out without any reconfiguration? will this cause my check light ngine to go on? i would appreciate more input thanks youve helped me out a great deal.

 

That is correct about the oil drainage. It goes through the turbo and back into the oil pan.

The egr is the exhaust gas return, its mainly a emmisions thing. I dont know about on 240's but on dsm's you can just block it off with a plate, but its fairly difficult to get to.

 

Will that make a KA-T not pass emissions testing?