OK I figured some stuff out
1. the temp sensor splits off the harness and rejoins before it goes to the ECU. I believe this is for some kind of control for the heater core/heater controls so it doesnt flow water untill the engine is up to temp, you have to run the wires off of the split back to the harness just before it enters the ECU.
2. The temp sensor for the gauge must be connected using the unused white connector under the dash all the way to the right and then using the plug from the R32 chassis that goes to the unused plug off the the R32 ECU harness. its the blue and black wire (or black and blue, whatever comes out of the one wire sensor is the same for the KA wiring)
3. My FPR was dumping WAY too much fuel in. I swapped it with a KA24E and it starts right up, no prob. So DO NOT use a vortech/AEM style FPR it looks like it will work, but the size of it does not allow proper adjustment.
I forgot to reset the computer and look at the codes again, but I believe I got rid of the codes.
also, the wiring in the R32 GTR manual does not match the GTST so you have to trace the wires, but when it comes to the ground of the temp sensor I dont know if I got it right, so that may have to be changed. If anyone could get the wiring diagrams for the GTST that would let me be able to figure it out exactly.

You can figure this stuff out for yourselves to make sure, the easiest way is to disconnect the plug from the sensor and then dissconnect the harness from the ECU and test for a break in the wires, you will find that they are both broken connectionsso I ran 2 new wires from the sensor to the ECU. I dont know if it worked or not cause I also switched the FPR and then tried to start it and it fired up great the first time.
Does anybody know how to test the timing properly on an RB20? I think I messed it up a little bit.
Hopefully this helps you guys.
anyone that knows how to do the timing please email me directions at: iroc_07@yahoo.com

 

I just sold my house and my hybrid turbo turned out to be junk, so I'm at a standstill until thursday when the turbo will arrive. Sorry I've been slackin.

 

AHHHHHHHH I thought I had it figured out, but turns out I didnt, it still starts hard. I dont know if its a fuel problem or what. This car is not playing nice. I hope its not the ECU itself. I am going to try and reset the ECU tomorrow and see if I still get the code for the temp sensor, if I do, I think the ECU is screwed up cause I ran new wires for it and I know they are good and hooked up right.
RK have you messed around with your starting problem any more lately? also do you have any RB20 TPS laying around? I might need one, but not sure yet.

 

I am waiting for my turbo, then I will play with it some more. It's not the ECU, I have it down to being a wiring issue with the 02 sensor, or maybe these injectors are prone to leaking and emptying the fuel rail into the motor after you shut the engine off, but when I add more fuel during a cold start via a shot of starting fluid it fires right up. All I have is the full swaps/clips sorry. I'm going to give JWT a call when I have time and see what they think it is.

 

MAKE sure you have the start signal wired up.. i wired it up and the problem went away.. its supposed to enrichen the fuel and advance the timing by 2 degrees or something like that. either way, it works first time every time.. warm or cold now.

 

Dawhiz, tell me more about this start signal you speak of??????? pics, prev posts, sections of a manual, whatever you have let me in on it, PLEASE.

 

S14 M63 Plug (http://www.dragva.com/eng/M63.html) Pin 34 (Start Signal (STSW)) to RB25 ECU (http://s92978298.onlinehome.us/RB/RB...R33_pinout.pdf) Pin 43 (Start Switch).

So basically, ECU's Start Switch wire to the Dash Plug (White Plug)'s Start Switch wire.

 

go here for RB20DET pinout, find start signal-then connect the red wire from your dash harness to that one-this is how I understand from what Jon Powell said.

http://rb20det.com/ecupinout.html

 

I have one 4wd RB20 clip still here in the shop-I will test and find which wire is the start signal from it tomorrow, I'm going to try to get mine starting better too.

 

Ok I found and tested the black/yellow stripe wire , it's the wire on the last plug at the right looking at the plug end of the ECU. I wired this to my orange wire from the dash harness and got the voltage to match the way the RB20 front clip is. But my car was warm when I started it, so I will have to try it again tomorrow when it's cold to know for sure.

 

I started up my car this afternoon dead cold on the first try, it still was grumpy and kinda chugged to life, but better than before when I had to crank from 3-6 times.

 

same here, I can now start it on the first or second try and it "chugs to life" as you put it, and its fine after that.
Now the next question is why do they do the "chugg"? and can someone figure out how to stop it? Cause it sounds kinda goofy when you start it, like it hasnt fully made up its mind if its gonna start or not.
Man I wish someone would have mentioned the start signal about a month ago.

 

Nobody mentions the start signal because most of the wiring guides are this color to that color and everyone is wiring up their cars without the slightest idea of what the car needs.


Go back to the first page and read my second post.....I did mention it.

 

Just went back and read this whole thread, I mentioned the start signal like 3 or 4 times......I wish someone would have paid attention about a month ago.

 

I kinda figured that was it too I just didn't have time to get to it right away. The chugging to life may be old injectors, I had a old Maxima that did the same thing, and a mechanic told me the injectors get old and allow the fuel in the rail to drain into the cylinder(s), so then you have some with too much fuel and an empty rail, so of course it starts hard. I'm taking off for 2 weeks to the inlaws so I'm not going to be messing with mine for awhile.