Is a SR20DET worth it?
11-03-2007, 02:34 PM
#16
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: new orleans
Posts: 191
zilvia.net
houston240sx.com
240sxforums.com
these sites are pretty big. check those and tell me if you see more RB's then SR's...
Last edited by Iwanta nismo; 11-03-2007 at 02:37 PM.
11-03-2007, 07:32 PM
#18
lol where i live its rare to find 240s on the street let aone any modified ones. my friend is the only person i know with a modded s13 and when i go to auto-x im usually the only 240 representing 
usually a bunch 350z's ,1 300zx N/a, and me 240. and i got a sr but its not in my car when it was in my car it was a really fun engine even stock with the boost cranked up now im building it for around 300whp and high response
usually a bunch 350z's ,1 300zx N/a, and me 240. and i got a sr but its not in my car when it was in my car it was a really fun engine even stock with the boost cranked up now im building it for around 300whp and high response
11-05-2007, 06:46 PM
#25
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Inver Grove Heights
Posts: 16
All are nice options. All have pros and cons. SR20DET was the best option for me because my tranny was also going out. It's pricey for a warranteed low mileage or rebuilt transmission. If you buy an SR setup, it comes with relatively low mileage AND it comes ready for boost. For me, it was most cost effective. If you're going for ultimate power though, KA and RB are your best bet.
Last edited by NismoSlider; 11-20-2007 at 10:47 AM.
11-19-2007, 10:11 PM
#26
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Brunswick
Posts: 394
ok listen closely these are some very good pros and cons that i have discovered during my 4 years of being involved in 240s.
ka-t:
-easy to replace
-known actual milage
-can put the sr20 turbo on, sr20 smic with stock/modified piping, sr20 injectors, sr20 bov for gods sake, some sort of fuel regulator (safc, emanage, ecu tune) and simply buy a ssac manifold dump pipe and downpipe which = sr20 setup with more torque and sometimes more power (if done correctly i.e. tuning parts condition etc) all for ~1500 depending on parts (i did it for 1200 but i shopped a lot)
-gives you the knowledge of knowing what is wrong when something breaks because you put the stuff on yourself
-unique (im from ohio, more people have sr20s, NA KAs, or sohc ka-ts or the very least dohc ka-ts, and some few rbs)
-is a great experience "turboing your own motor"
sr20:
-plug and play
-unknown actual millage (unless you get a full front clip with gauge cluster)
-heavily supported in the aftermarket area
-pretty simple swap. you dont have to change much besides maybe radiator hoses, or other simple things
-you have to deal with a wiring harness. now this could be easy or a headache. you could get a cut one with sensors missing etc.
-in and out swap, you get it in and you roll out of the garage unless you have problems with the motor like oil pan dented, missing parts, bad starter, blown turbo etc.
-decent gas millage ~22-24mpg
rb motors:
-more complicated
-more power
-sounds better out of the three
-worse gas milage
-still have to deal with unknown millage unless you get a full clip again
-heavier out of the 3
-requires aftermarket motor and tranny mounts, unless you go the hard way and use the xmember which ive heard is more of a headache than the swap
-more expensive to replace than ka and sr
-you still have the chance of getting something wrong with the motor like the sr20
-most expensive (this is a comparison of just swapping the motors in or just turboing the ka with sr20 stuff)
with all that said, and i know i left out some good points but w/e. ive been back and forth between all 3 swaps. like i said before i did the sr20 stuff on one of my KAs and it was a blast, a great experience, many headaches, but non-the-less a great time. im not saying that you will have an easier time with the ka, but the probability is high. it just depends on first, what is all wrong with your KA, second, what is your price range, and third, what do you want out of your motor?
KA-torquey as hell, it will blow you socks off at how much of an improvement a tiny winny t25 effects the KA, cant turn the boost up too much with out getting better tuning. more horsepower and torque vs. a stock sr20 with the same parts.
SR20-good to decent reliability (all depending on the motor etc.), good horsepower, kind of weak torque, but you can turn the boost up easily with out worrying about if you have the right tune to not shoot your rods through your block.
RB motors-again good to decent reliability (this goes for the sr20 swap too - if you just swap the motor in and dont go through it replacing rings, bearings, etc.), excellent horsepower, good torque, can still turn the boost up like the sr20 but is a little more limited on turning the boost up due to stock turbos on the rb motors. sounds the best
So after writing this novel for you lol i hope this helps. but like i said it all really depends on what you can and want to do. personally i would say get another ka, put it in, maybe change out the bearings and put in a new clutch (clutches can be interchanged between sr and ka), and do some suspension work before you get ready to go faster, also maybe some new rotors and pads? maybe z32 brakes? this is going off that you just have stock suspension and brakes and you just started doing some minor upgrades to the KA before it blew. if you already have the suspension and brakes done then its time to decide whats next.
Personally Im not really biased towards either of the 3, i did the ka-t thing, ive always wanted to do an sr20 (just because i like the way they look in the engine bay?? yaa i know lame reason but it makes sense to me), and i would very much consider doing an rb swap if i could afford it to do it right and because they sound like monsters which is next to orgasmic
good luck with the decision i hope i helped a little, and please, PLEASE keep us posted
ka-t:
-easy to replace
-known actual milage
-can put the sr20 turbo on, sr20 smic with stock/modified piping, sr20 injectors, sr20 bov for gods sake, some sort of fuel regulator (safc, emanage, ecu tune) and simply buy a ssac manifold dump pipe and downpipe which = sr20 setup with more torque and sometimes more power (if done correctly i.e. tuning parts condition etc) all for ~1500 depending on parts (i did it for 1200 but i shopped a lot)
-gives you the knowledge of knowing what is wrong when something breaks because you put the stuff on yourself
-unique (im from ohio, more people have sr20s, NA KAs, or sohc ka-ts or the very least dohc ka-ts, and some few rbs)
-is a great experience "turboing your own motor"
sr20:
-plug and play
-unknown actual millage (unless you get a full front clip with gauge cluster)
-heavily supported in the aftermarket area
-pretty simple swap. you dont have to change much besides maybe radiator hoses, or other simple things
-you have to deal with a wiring harness. now this could be easy or a headache. you could get a cut one with sensors missing etc.
-in and out swap, you get it in and you roll out of the garage unless you have problems with the motor like oil pan dented, missing parts, bad starter, blown turbo etc.
-decent gas millage ~22-24mpg
rb motors:
-more complicated
-more power
-sounds better out of the three
-worse gas milage
-still have to deal with unknown millage unless you get a full clip again
-heavier out of the 3
-requires aftermarket motor and tranny mounts, unless you go the hard way and use the xmember which ive heard is more of a headache than the swap
-more expensive to replace than ka and sr
-you still have the chance of getting something wrong with the motor like the sr20
-most expensive (this is a comparison of just swapping the motors in or just turboing the ka with sr20 stuff)
with all that said, and i know i left out some good points but w/e. ive been back and forth between all 3 swaps. like i said before i did the sr20 stuff on one of my KAs and it was a blast, a great experience, many headaches, but non-the-less a great time. im not saying that you will have an easier time with the ka, but the probability is high. it just depends on first, what is all wrong with your KA, second, what is your price range, and third, what do you want out of your motor?
KA-torquey as hell, it will blow you socks off at how much of an improvement a tiny winny t25 effects the KA, cant turn the boost up too much with out getting better tuning. more horsepower and torque vs. a stock sr20 with the same parts.
SR20-good to decent reliability (all depending on the motor etc.), good horsepower, kind of weak torque, but you can turn the boost up easily with out worrying about if you have the right tune to not shoot your rods through your block.
RB motors-again good to decent reliability (this goes for the sr20 swap too - if you just swap the motor in and dont go through it replacing rings, bearings, etc.), excellent horsepower, good torque, can still turn the boost up like the sr20 but is a little more limited on turning the boost up due to stock turbos on the rb motors. sounds the best
So after writing this novel for you lol i hope this helps. but like i said it all really depends on what you can and want to do. personally i would say get another ka, put it in, maybe change out the bearings and put in a new clutch (clutches can be interchanged between sr and ka), and do some suspension work before you get ready to go faster, also maybe some new rotors and pads? maybe z32 brakes? this is going off that you just have stock suspension and brakes and you just started doing some minor upgrades to the KA before it blew. if you already have the suspension and brakes done then its time to decide whats next.
Personally Im not really biased towards either of the 3, i did the ka-t thing, ive always wanted to do an sr20 (just because i like the way they look in the engine bay?? yaa i know lame reason but it makes sense to me), and i would very much consider doing an rb swap if i could afford it to do it right and because they sound like monsters which is next to orgasmic
good luck with the decision i hope i helped a little, and please, PLEASE keep us posted
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